Turn signal ?

I am trying to get all the lights working on my 65 Falcon. The front signal/park light works fine . The rear on on the same side works only when the turn signal is on . No park light. Any ideas?

Not to be a smart arse but bulb or switch or maybe even socket. I think the park and signal light share the same ground so neither would work if that was it. Time to get out the volt/ohm meter! Good luck!

,,,go up to profile and put down a REAL LOCATION,,,,,

Donivan,
Just for your peace of mind I changed my profile to include my REAL LOCATION.
It is in the United States.   

aint nothing more irritating here than not knowing what part of the country a person is located in,,,,,,,so back to your question,,,,,turn the headlights on,,,,,,take the rear tail light lens off,,,,take the bulb out,,,,see if it has 2 contacts,,,,take a test light or voltmeter, reachh in there,,,see if you got juice on one of those contacts,,,,one contact is for tail lights, the other is for the brake/Turn signal light,,,see what you you got,,,,,,

Thanks for all the jnfo. Now that you know where I am , stop by next time you get to north Ga.

seems to me,,,,,if you want to hang out with us,,,,,whats wrong with us asking where are you at,,,,,,or are you just a spammer trying to hide from us,,,,,,,,,I can fix that truck,,,,even if it is a FORD.....

Only have juice on the ts side when the signal is on . No headlight side juice. Guess I'll have to start tracing   

I wanted to hang out so bad I neglected my profile. Sorry

Ok, since the tail lights have nothing to do with the Turn signal/Brake light wiring, then we check that brown wire that starts at the RR bulb,,,,,goes to the license plate light, then LR bulb and up to the headlight switch,,,,,so if any of those 3 bulbs have power, then the problem is around the rear door area,,,,they are all hooked together by 1 wire,,,,,and speaking of the headlight switch,,,do you have the absolutely worst,  useless , fusebox ever invented?????and are the fuses good????

You Chebby guys are all alike. That's cool cause it leaves more good FORD parts for the rest of us. But, all kidding aside, that is a sweet looking van you have. And you are correct, that fuse- light switch is not one of fords better ideas.

,,,our Chebby is a girl,,,,,,,,

Hey 66TV,,,,,,and another brilliant Ford idea is to use 5 volt gauges that need a voltage reducer to make them work,,,,,,,,and my Ford Buddy just had to buy one to get his gas gauge to work..............these old vans are what they are,,,,,you just got to learn the rules about owning one.......

wait. what? 12v to 5v? Is this possibly why MY gas gauge isn't working?

so weird.

Guess I need to crack open the dash and see if I have 5v at the gauge. That's way easier than pulling the sender, I suppose.

I would just unplug the sending unit wire by the tank and take a test light and see if the wire coming from the dash that goes to the sending unit makes the test light BLINK,,,,,,like a turn signal,,,,,that tells you the Dash Cluster Voltage Regulator is working,,,,,then with the wire unplugged, see what the gas gauge reads,,,,,,when you touch that wire to ground, the gauge should read the other way,,,,,that will test the gauge and the voltage reducer,,,,,,,,

Awesome. Thanks for the workflow tip. I'd have gotten there, but this is very helpful.

,,,,,if,,,,,,,you have the factory fuel gauge,,,,,,and,,,,,you unplug the wire off the fuel sending unit on the gas tank and turn on the key,,,,,IF,,,,,the gauge and wiring are good,,,,the gas gauge should read EMPTY,,,,,,,touch that wire to ground and the gauge should read FULL,,,,,if thats what you get and the gauge still don't work right, the problem is the fuel tank sender,,,,,there might be a ground wire problem on the sender or its just worn out or the float is bad or fallen off........

Also, that voltage limiter has to be grounded to work. It is screwed to the back of the cluster for a reason. If you have the cluster out, for testing, you will need to connect a temporary jumper wire from the dash to the cluster to get that POS limiter to work. The ford folks really cheaped out on wire. That design is as basic as any Ford ever made. BTW, all the grounds on the E100 have to be hooked up and if you have a rust bucket Van you will have problems sooner or later. Every thing is grounded to the chassis, so the grounds are a good place to start if you are having problems.

P.S. Doni I can see this is not your first rodeo, when it comes to Fords. Good info! Thank you!,
Chris

Chevy Guys must think I am MIA

Don, just tell them you took a walk on the dark side!

Found the wire with juice and have tailights and ts no brake lights . I'll have to check the switch . My van is outside and Man , is it hot in Ga . Mornings for a little work PM heat+humidity miserable. Thanks to Chevy guy for info. My Daddy owned a 66 Chevy van and drove it to Montana and was his daily driver for many years until he lost his sight. I used it quite a bit myself and it was sweet. I like em all .

Just got to the gas station after the wife rescued me roadside. Ran dry on a dang hill. This thread got bumped right on time!

Check the wires behind the grille on the brake light switch,,,, one should have power on it,,,,,connect the two wires together with a jumper wire or paper clip,,see if you get brake lights,,,,,,the juice from there goes up to the turn signal switch and the turn signal switch actually turns on the brake lights,,,,,,so see what you got,,,maybe bad brake light switch or bad connections at it if you got power to one of the wires on it......

Thanks ,
Each light on the rear has a pigtail with a red wire(brake) and a grey wire(ts and tailight)
There is a red wire coming from a harness I assume both red wires from the lights attach to that wire. I have a hydraulic brake switch with two red wires on the master cylinder. Are these the wires in the grille you refer to ? Thanks again. Also , have you ever replaced the switch with a mechanical ? If so I would like some info on that .