by george at grooms Tue Sep 04, 2012 12:24 pm So I'm the fleet manager at an irrigation co in ok. my boss has me redoing this old van for a cross country driver,this is what i've got.vintage air ac,fresh 318 with a mild cam,electric fan, fresh air intake,cruise control,fsr radiator swap, new bushings ,brakes seals....also paint ,body and interior.I've got all the parts gathered up ecept for a few,and about to start going together with it.I'll post pics later when I have more time. Thanks to this site for all the info,I'd be lost without it
+6
slowflapper
Stoopid john
dix
G-Man
RodStRace
george at grooms
10 posters
65 a 100 cross country driver
george at grooms- Number of posts : 14
Location : edmond ok
Registration date : 2012-06-13
RodStRace- Number of posts : 3046
Location : Chino Valley
Registration date : 2010-01-21
Welcome to the site!
I'd upgrade the brakes, and make sure the fuel tank is clean!
I'd upgrade the brakes, and make sure the fuel tank is clean!
G-Man- Mayor
- Number of posts : 30743
Location : Fowlerville, MI
Age : 62
Registration date : 2008-05-06
Welcome!!!!
dix- Moderator 1st Class
- Number of posts : 8729
Location : pittsburgh pa
Age : 66
Registration date : 2008-05-29
I agree with Rod front disc brakes.
_________________
still vannin since 1974
Stoopid john- Number of posts : 265
Location : port richey, fl
Registration date : 2011-06-03
x1000 on the disc brakes. It's the best money i've spent so far.
slowflapper- Number of posts : 956
Location : GA
Age : 54
Registration date : 2010-07-29
dude, we need pictures. 
Big W- Number of posts : 3282
Location : Saskatoon,Sask,Canada
Age : 60
Registration date : 2011-01-13
Welcome to VV. Some pics would be sweet. Is that the van in your avatar pic?
dodge man- Number of posts : 2036
Location : ohio
Registration date : 2012-08-08
WELCOME, THIS SITE WILL HELP YOU OUT WITH ANY PROBLEMS THAT MIGHT COME UP, ITS BEEN GREAT FOR ME AND ALL THE PEOPLE ON HERE ARE TOP NOTCH, THEY ALL CHIM IN TO HELP,
george at grooms- Number of posts : 14
Location : edmond ok
Registration date : 2012-06-13
I'm trying to talk him into the brakes but no luck so far
george at grooms- Number of posts : 14
Location : edmond ok
Registration date : 2012-06-13
oh and it is the van in the avitar
george at grooms- Number of posts : 14
Location : edmond ok
Registration date : 2012-06-13
the fuel tank is at the radiator shop being cleaned and sealed
dodge man- Number of posts : 2036
Location : ohio
Registration date : 2012-08-08
i also want to put disc brakes on mine, does anyone know if you need to change the master cylinder? when using the scarebird kit?
CraigK- Number of posts : 141
Location : Grafton Ohio
Registration date : 2012-05-14
You know there is a saying on one of the car forums I used to frequent
"No pics, Never happened"
Would love to see pics as you progress
"No pics, Never happened"
Would love to see pics as you progress
RodStRace- Number of posts : 3046
Location : Chino Valley
Registration date : 2010-01-21
64-66 is a single master. Good to change if only for safety.
Duals are 67-70. When swapping to discs, you must match cylinder size and force. This often requires a booster (tough to find room!) or changing the M/C.
Duals are 67-70. When swapping to discs, you must match cylinder size and force. This often requires a booster (tough to find room!) or changing the M/C.
dodge man- Number of posts : 2036
Location : ohio
Registration date : 2012-08-08
does scarebird tell you witch m/c to buy with there kit? i have a dual m/c thanks rod yeah i'll take lots of pictures when i start on it,
dodge man- Number of posts : 2036
Location : ohio
Registration date : 2012-08-08
i'm also wandering if i'll need to change these 14'' wheels,
george at grooms- Number of posts : 14
Location : edmond ok
Registration date : 2012-06-13
lets see if they show up
george at grooms- Number of posts : 14
Location : edmond ok
Registration date : 2012-06-13
george at grooms- Number of posts : 14
Location : edmond ok
Registration date : 2012-06-13
pain in the ars picture posting!ac motor and radiator,
dodge man- Number of posts : 2036
Location : ohio
Registration date : 2012-08-08
looks good !
dix- Moderator 1st Class
- Number of posts : 8729
Location : pittsburgh pa
Age : 66
Registration date : 2008-05-29
dodge man i installed front disc. the new mc i used was out of a 73 dodge van it had front disc and rear drums and no booster so the front were disc but not power brakes. and you will need to do some cutting to get it in. or maybe look at a valent see what they had.. the disc use more fluid so i'd suggest changing the mc.
_________________
still vannin since 1974
dodge man- Number of posts : 2036
Location : ohio
Registration date : 2012-08-08
thanks DIX, i thought i would have to change it my m/c on there now has small resavores, i know with disc you need more fluid to pass back and forth with the pistons moving that requires a bigger m/c i just didnt know what m/c would fit, do they give you all the info when you buy the kit
Stoopid john- Number of posts : 265
Location : port richey, fl
Registration date : 2011-06-03
Yes they do, i think i had $363 total in my swap with drilled and slotted rotors. It stops great, it's saved my butt more than once.
dodge man- Number of posts : 2036
Location : ohio
Registration date : 2012-08-08
yeah if i had to stop fast it would be all over, going for the brake swap this winter, going to be busey i want to do the interior with some nice wood and build a bed in the back, a nice sterio, and go over the engine, next summer i'll put some miles on it, once its good and safe,
RodStRace- Number of posts : 3046
Location : Chino Valley
Registration date : 2010-01-21
Drum=similar size M/C bore as wheel cylinder bore (usually between 3/4" and 1"). This means similar pressure at M/C and at wheel cylinder rod.
Fluid displacement must take up against heavy springs and move shoes out about 1/8" or so. Regular adjustment or self-adjusters keep this to a safe minimum so you don't run out of pedal before the shoes engage.
Disc= small M/C Bore (Again usually between 3/4" and 1") to a caliper with a much great diameter bore (often around 2-3"). This means a larger fluid displacement which if not taken into account and planned for could be on the order of 2 or 3 to one. That would require 2-3 times the pedal throw, all other things being equal. This is accomplished by holding a tighter tolerance on pad drawback and often larger M/C bores, which lowers the fluid pressure.
There is a whole lot more to it, with different pedal ratios, PSI and how it relates to a round bore, and other things. Discs require more pressure too, which is why almost all are power-assisted.
There are many books on it, and a lot of very high-level websites on braking. I suggest that you research it if you plan on swapping.
Here are a couple I just found with searches...
Basic design
http://www.how-to-build-hotrods.com/brake-system.html
http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tech/0601phr_braking_systems/viewall.html
some simple math
http://www.brakeandfrontend.com/issue/article.aspx?contentid=79680
and if you want to go crazy, here is a good book that is crazy high in price!
http://www.amazon.com/High-Performance-Brake-Systems-Selection-Installation/dp/1932494324
Heavy math
http://www.engineeringinspiration.co.uk/brakecalcs.html
Fluid displacement must take up against heavy springs and move shoes out about 1/8" or so. Regular adjustment or self-adjusters keep this to a safe minimum so you don't run out of pedal before the shoes engage.
Disc= small M/C Bore (Again usually between 3/4" and 1") to a caliper with a much great diameter bore (often around 2-3"). This means a larger fluid displacement which if not taken into account and planned for could be on the order of 2 or 3 to one. That would require 2-3 times the pedal throw, all other things being equal. This is accomplished by holding a tighter tolerance on pad drawback and often larger M/C bores, which lowers the fluid pressure.
There is a whole lot more to it, with different pedal ratios, PSI and how it relates to a round bore, and other things. Discs require more pressure too, which is why almost all are power-assisted.
There are many books on it, and a lot of very high-level websites on braking. I suggest that you research it if you plan on swapping.
Here are a couple I just found with searches...
Basic design
http://www.how-to-build-hotrods.com/brake-system.html
http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tech/0601phr_braking_systems/viewall.html
some simple math
http://www.brakeandfrontend.com/issue/article.aspx?contentid=79680
and if you want to go crazy, here is a good book that is crazy high in price!
http://www.amazon.com/High-Performance-Brake-Systems-Selection-Installation/dp/1932494324
Heavy math
http://www.engineeringinspiration.co.uk/brakecalcs.html
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