New A100 pickup owner here. Hello!

Thanks Dantra for the info. I checked them out, looks like $75 a wheel is what they will charge me for what I need. Beats Coker's prices, I will have to paint anyway so a bare wheel is what I prefer. I did find some 15x8 wheel rings that I could weld my centers into, they are $35 each+shipping but the extra cost to have Early Wheel build them for me is nominal, and will save me a bunch of time and hassles. Guess the next time I get $150ish together I will have to give them a ring.

Big step today, title in my name is on the way and its got PLATES!! Insurance is going to be a whopping $22 a month for full coverage so I guess its going to be insured here within the next couple of days. A few bugs to work out and I will be driving this puppy whenever/whenever I want!

Twinpilot001 wrote:doin great guys - for the fuel tank gague not reading goog=?? chech for a good groung wire from sender to body??

I will have to check this out, may be the problem. I dont think there ever was one because the tank is bare steel and the strap is also bare steel but it sure wouldnt hurt to put a wire in myself just to be sure. Thanks!

Dodge used a small clip that bridged the rubber hose connection from the sending unit to the fuel line, normally rusted away.

here it is digz. http://www.yearone.com/serverfiles/fbshopmain2.asp?input=sending+unit+ground+strap&SM=1&SC=1

Well that sux. 2nd day of having it legal and it decides to puke out on me this morning and not run. Either have a broken timing chain or it stretched enough to let the gears come out of time. Either way looks like its time to tear the timing cover off and see what I have going on. I dont really want to spend any money on the /6 but the V8 swap just isnt in the cards at the present time.

dix wrote:here it is digz. http://www.yearone.com/serverfiles/fbshopmain2.asp?input=sending+unit+ground+strap&SM=1&SC=1

Wow, $14 +shipping for that?
I think my problem may be harness related, rather than sender/grounding issues. The fuel gauge pegs max full as soon as I turn the key on. This indicates to me a situation of too much ground in the signal wire, as opposed to not enough which would make the gauge read either low or not at all.

Thanks for the suggestions though guys!

1st clean the fuel line and the sendind unit tube. have some one hold it on both lines to see if it makes a differance. althou it should have some type of a ground. you could use 2 small hose clamps to hold the jumper wire. you could have a hot wire going to ground.. use a test light to see if there is electric in the fuel line. i've seen a carb. test hot....

is the sending unit new. if so you may have to bend the flote a little i know i bent mine to match the 1 i removed...

Well, timing chain is a little sloppy but not near enough to cause tooth jumping. Timing is still dead on. Removed the valve cover to try to determine why it sounds like it cranks with 5 dead holes. Apparently cranking slowly several of the valves like to take their sweet time returning to the closed position. When it fires up they work just fine and the engine runs quite well (nice and quiet after I finally adjusted the valves).
Only other strangeness I am noticing is that there is a metal on metal tinking noise that shows up at random. Kind of the same noise you would hear if the fan was lightly striking the radiator, or some other metal object, however this is not occuring. It almost sounds to be coming from the crank pulley/water pump/alternator area but it is so random that I cannot begin to try to locate it when it actually shows up.
Oh and it was nice finding out there was no crank pulley bolt in place. Good thing I had a spare one laying around from a 318 that fit right in.....

Sounds like its time for some Marvel Mystery Oil. Great stuff for sticky valves. Don

+1 on the Marvel. Worked great in my daily driver.

I think I will pick some up tomorrow and toss it in. Wont hurt any I dont think. I dont want to invest any more money into the 6 than I absolutely have to because a V8/auto will be sitting in its place fairly soon. I never really have been a fan of the 6 other than their never die reputation.

The random tinkling of metal on metal might be the occasional contact between fan and shroud. Check for rub / scuff marks.

Tinking/ ticking ????? noise - check fan blades for a crack!! Pull it off & look close-do not run the engine looking at it-Hate to loose another Vanner!!-

Twinpilot001 wrote:...............-do not run the engine looking at it-Hate to loose another Vanner!!-

WTF...who would be that dumb?? oh, never mind

my slant 'tinks'. It's the fan blade hitting the alt center nut. The bracket for the pivot bolt is oval, causing the alt to shift.
Also some engines came without the crank bolt.
I'd also suggest some MM OIL, or change the oil and use one quart of ATF.
Don't load it heavily like this, just let it run for a while to clean and unstick stuff, then change it again with regular oil and filter.

Threw some Marvel Mystery oil in it. Let it run for a while. Didnt seem to help but with as dirty as this engine is inside it might take several days worth of running around to get it cleaned out and loosened up.
I did get the fuel gauge working, dont ask me how though. I removed the sender to clean the pickup screen off (a few rust flakes that I couldnt get out when I had the tank out) reinstalled and bingo, gauge works.

I'm beginning to think I know what the tink tink noise is, and I am NOT happy about it.
Started having some fueling issues the other day. Went through today and checked the fuel system over from beginning to end. Strainer in tank is clear, sits in several inches of fuel (about 1/4 tank). Fuel line from tank to first filter, clear. Fuel line from first filter to fuel pump, clear. Fuel line from fuel pump to carb, clear. New fuel filters, the clear kind, so I can see whats going on and if they have fuel/plugging problems. Everything is clear. Still cannot keep fuel in the carb. Replaced fuel pump, no improvement. Went out and pressed the rod in on the old pump as its sitting in the cab. It shoots whatever fuel is left inside of it out the outlet quite strongly.
This tells me that something aint right internally. I am willing to bet the fuel pump eccentric is rattling around, doing its own thing and not staying put on the camshaft like it needs to be. I dont wanna tear into this boat anchor of a motor to do anything, let alone pull the timing cover off, AGAIN! Geesh, cannot catch a break with this 225. Anybody want it? I will give it away. Will even drop it on the ground for you, literally.
I dont even want to spend the money to put an electric fuel pump in it........

[/stepping off my soapbox now]

SBs have an eccentric on the front of the cam to drive the fuel pump.
BBs use a rod and a lobe on the cam.
/6 uses a lobe with the fuel pump arm directly on the cam.

http://www.allpar.com/slant6.html

I was beginning to think that was the case after I thought about how things looked when I had the timing cover off. There isnt room for an eccentric in there. I will tear into it this evening/tomorrow and try to figure out what the heck is going on. I am going to re-route the fuel pump output over the valve cover like I have seen a lot of engines set up. I need to go through everything with a fine tooth comb again and see what I missed.
Thanks for the info!

oil slinger?

Its actually looking like the tink noise might be the fan lightly clipping the bent mag timing pickup bracket on the front of the timing cover.

So I deleted most of the steel fuel line from the pump to the carb. After getting it off I found a couple places where it was bent to the point of almost crimping it. I also found a spot like that in the supply line so after dinner I will cut that out and replace it with rubber and see if that heals the fuel supply problem.

Also found my accelerator pump torn. That explains why I cant get it to fire by itself when cold. No extra shot of go-go juice to give it a pulse.

As long as I can keep fixing stuff very very cheap, or free is better, then I am good. I dont mind spending the time, I just dont want to spend the funds on the 6 when I could be putting that money into an 8 instead.

Thanks for shooting more ideas my way Rod! If its not the timing bracket I will check into the slinger. I gotta pull the timing cover back off anyway, corner is puking oil on me now

Well, no update on the tinking noise but I did find out why I couldnt get my valve tap to go away with Marvel oil;



Straightened that and re-adjusted the valves and no more tap, for now.
Cut out fuel line kinks and got the rust worked out of the lines and now the fuel system seems to be functioning as it should. Still need to pick up a carb kit for the accelerator pump.

Well done finding that pushrod

Well, got her all back together, got a good accelerator pump in it. Now that the carb gets the correct amount of fuel I can get the idle mixture adjusted properly and get a decent idle. It runs out pretty well now. Has tons more power, enough to start slipping the clutch (which I am NOT going to change lol). It will work great for the putzing around I do so I am pleased. As long as it stays running how it is now I will be content with it.
Up next, front brakes, which I should have done before and that should take care of pretty much all of the mechanical problems.