by Old Skool Thu Sep 05, 2013 8:19 am
That is quite often the clip tha that holds down the return canceling cam down is loose and or the cam itself is warped from the heat. There are two sliders inside the cam and if gummed up or dirty the turn signals will work intermittedly. With some pressure on the turn arm sometimes yes, sometimes no. You can buy a new return cam from She-Mar or on Ebay occasionally. BUT be careful to make sure you get those two sliders back in their original positions after you clean the contacts and install the new return cam.
NOTE: I have seen countless turn assemblies with broken posts from people NOT CORRECTLY trying to remove the horn contact to gain access!!!!!!!!!! You need to pry and NOT PULL the horn contact off of its each of three supports. It is an arrow type point that stabs into and expands into each of the three pillar supports. It WILL BREAK unless you carefully pry it off slowly. Use anything that will go across and then you can pry each one off one at a time. Those supports are old and brittle and weak when new.
Another trick that I use is to support the bottom of the turn lever post on a piece of metal, and smartly smack the top of the post back down and mushroom it over the new clip to ensure it is tight and cannot come off again. That turn signal assembly is no longer available, however I upgrade all of my steering columns to use the 68 to 74 eight wire turn signal assemblies that are identical to the 67 E flasher turn signal assemblies by milling a slot in the side of the early steering column and enlarging the turn lever post hole to match the 67 steering columns..
vic