dual master conversion

I posted a picture of a Mopar distribution block, the kind that has nothing in it....it's just a junction block. The one you've pictured (Scott) is the same thing but with a warning light in case pressure to the rear or front is lost (leak).

Do not ever use a dual master designed for 4 drum brakes on a vehicle with front discs and rear drums. The bias is wrong and can cause the front discs to lock up.

68-70 Dodges used a mechanical brake light switch mounted near where the brake pedal comes down through the floor. Brian Bowie has the bracket and switches for sale. 67 used TWO pressure switches so the brake lights would still work if one circuit failed. 64-66 used ONE pressure switch for the brake lights.

Brian 410-867-4056 (before 9pm ET)

You don't need a dist. block (not the same thing as a proportioning valve) but you will need a brass T-fitting for the front brakes while you can run the line for the rears directly from the master cylinder. The dist. block has the switch for the brake light on the dash (if equipped). Like I said..it's not needed. Make sure you buy a master cylinder for manual brakes, not power brakes. Cardone makes brand new master cylinders which I recommend over the reman.

I did a disk brake swap on our '67, and swapped to a larger dual-style master at the same time. Like above, I had to trim some metal to get it to fit, but it did fit just fine. One shortcut that helped a ton was to just buy a new proportioning block from Summit. They have an adjustable one for street rods that has a pressure switch already on it. That and some new hardline made the whole job a bit easier. It wasn't too much IIRC.

hi Toast did you use a kit for the front disks or just a colaberation of parts?

Ben...

AAJ Brakes sells a kit. Go to the website and call the guy...the A-100 kits are not listed on his site.

www.aajbrakes.com

thanks Nate ill investagate!!

Nice find Don. Is it the October '08 issue?

So, mine stops straight until you really need them. Thats kinda normal?

yup every stop is a panic stop

My 69 would pull to the left if you really hit the brakes hard and my brakes were in primo condition. Nothing I did would solve this. Ter over on the Yahoo group had a fix for this, but I don't remember what it was.

I bought the basic kit from AAJ. It worked pretty well, except that we had to figure out something else to do with the swaybar mount. If you've got a front swaybar (like we did) then you'll need to figure out a new mount for it, otherwise the calipers hit the mount when you turn.

But other than a very rusted and bent bolt that took two days to get out (no I'm not bitter) the swap went smooth. I used the nice Dart drill and slotted rotors from Summit and it's awesome. They aren't power brakes but it's sure a world of difference.

The basic kit is brackets and bearing adapters and some hardware. You buy calipers, pads, disks, new bearings, master cylinder, prop valve, and new hoses. I got the calipers from Napa, and everything else I think from Summit.

The guy who runs AAJ is a hoot. I really liked him. He's very knowledgeable and nice, and willing to talk at length about your project. He actually talked me into the basic kit, I was ready to buy the more complete ones but he said 'why pay shipping for me to buy the stuff and mail it to you'? All and all very fair and nice. Getting the stuff wasn't hard at all.

I wonder if you were to flip the brackets from one side to another and have the caliper mount rearward if that would remedy the sway bar issue. ???

That is what I had to do on my 69 Chevy, but still had to do somewhat of a modification to the sway bar bracket. I also moved the shocks "Inboard" a few inches.
Pics are over at VCVC2 page 4, for some reason they won't let me link them?
http://groups.msn.com/vintagechevyvanclub2/bvrwallysphotos.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=9207

donivan65 wrote:Here is an article in this months Hot Rod magazine,,,,Disk Brake Conversion,,,,,gives us more information,,,,,

Hey Don, looks like you've been hiding your Hemmings Muscle Machines inside your Hot Rods (giggle out loud).

nate the skate wrote:I wonder if you were to flip the brackets from one side to another and have the caliper mount rearward if that would remedy the sway bar issue. ???

Nope. We tried that. There was something about it that would make it not work, and I think it's because it hits the shock then (also I think the caliper would be upside down, which isn't the end of the world but is a pain).

The problem is that the shock mount and the sway bar mount are in the same spot, on opposite sides of the axel, and rather close to the spindle. So when the wheel turns, the caliper hits something. The sway bar mount is a huge 'knuckle' of cast metal that's held on with the same bolt that the bottom of the shock is mounted with. When removed, it makes for plenty of space for the calipers. And the swaybar can really be mounted almost anywhere along that spot; I need to find the time to fab up a bracket for it.

That said, we've been driving it for the last year without the swaybar, we just put nice heavy-duty shocks on the front end and take it easy on the turns and it's been fine so far. I think the mounts were so rotten that it wasn't doing anything much anyways before, so we didn't notice much by taking it off.

Ah so. I had a 65 p/u that didn't have a sway bar and it didn't lean that bad.

You can get rear sway bars through PST for the A-100's by the way.

www.p-s-t.com