'67 G-10 V8 Tranny ID

I've got this '67 G10 with a 283 V-8 and a 3 speed manual transmission.

I'm currently taking a manual transmission class at the local community college. I'd like to adjust the linkage, but am a bit stymied by the service manual. It's a truck manual that also covers the vans. According to the manual, if the tranny is a Muncie, then the manual has information on it. But if it's a Saginaw, then one needs to consult a passenger car manual. Which of course I don't have.

Two questions: How do I determine if the tranny in this van is a Saginaw or Muncie?

And if it's a Saginaw, what car tranny manual should I consult?

One thing I found on the internet: a list of 3 speec manual trannies for the 67 Camaro. It says the Saginaw maincase casting # is 3858986 for both the L6 and V8 motors. That number matches one of the casting numbers on my van's tranny. So it would be an M15...? It listsl slightly different 1st and 2nd gear ratios for the V8 vehicle, but that isn't my concern at the moment.

So I guess I answered some of my question... should I consult a '67 Camaro manual for information on how to adjust the linkage? Will the van forward control affect this?

Also, the symptoms... it can be hard to shift into 1st gear, even at full stop. Not grinding, just a bit balky raising up the shift lever. And rarely when coasting at speed, and trying to shift back into 3rd, it will grind, and I have to back off and retry the shift, at which time it usually goes in ok.

Other than that, it's fine ;-).

PS-I found a Saginaw manual for a Tempest of the same era... would it apply to the Chevy? Or is it pontiac-specific?

Thanks for the response.

I figured it out... found a manual for a Tempest 3 speed. While it's not exactly the same, it was enough to get me started.

Per the Tempest manual, I used a 4 inch length of #13 drill rod to get a .185" alignment pin long enough to engage all the holes in the shift mechanism at the base of the column. A #13 drill will also work but the flutes allow too much play for a good alignment. The secret is to remove the screws holding down the boot at the floor and lift the boot up, and access the holes from above, not below. While there are four holes, there really are only two "neutrals", each one attached to a linkage that in turn is connected to the shift fork levers back at the transmission.

And in fact I had to loosen the connection between the linkage rods and the shift fork levers in order to be able to fit the pin in at the column neutral setting position with the shift fork levers in the neutral detente position. The previous setting at the 1st/reverse lever was WAAAY off. Once I did that, the pin went in relatively easily, which lined everything up at the column and set the correct rod linkage to shift fork lever position at the tranny. After that it was a simple matter of just tightening the clamps at the rod/fork join and then remove the alignment pin at the base of the column.

Result: the transmission shifts much better, with clear feedback on where neutral is and where the various gear settings are.

In the process I discovered that while the linkage grommets (two) at the base of the column are slightly worn, they are probably ok. But the rubber grommet at the 1st/reverse lever is torn and too loose. So I'm looking for replacement linkage rubber grommets for the linkage rod to shift fork connection. So far no luck searching on line.