Rust converter use

Has anyone used the rust converter and encapsulator from eastwood. Sounds funny not to blast all the crap off the frame before painting???

i used a version of this stuff on acar back in '94. it was a toyota corroder (corona) it turned the rust black and then got super hard. i would say it was a good product, but i never bothered to paint over it so the car slowly started to look like it had been a paintball park prop.

Thanks guys... That's what I wanted to know... Blast it first then put the stuff on and paint.

Yes sir! Using it on mine as well. Works great. LIke G-Man said, you do need to scuff it up before painting.

http://www.eastwood.com/rust-solutions.html

I got an email from them today for free shipping code (ship89) since I got my soda blaster from them. So I ordered my converter and ancapsulator today.

I buy "Purple Power de-ruster" from Advance Auto. Like $6 a QUART!
It kills rust GREAT! ..then I prime and paint.
Completely killed all the rust on many LBC's ( Little Brit Cars) and it never returns.
Cheaper than POR or Eastwood.......easier to use and IMHO works better.

crazee wrote:I buy "Purple Power de-ruster" from Advance Auto. Like $6 a QUART!
It kills rust GREAT! ..then I prime and paint.
Completely killed all the rust on many LBC's ( Little Brit Cars) and it never returns.
Cheaper than POR or Eastwood.......easier to use and IMHO works better.

Well $6 a qt. I may have to try some. Just started preping the van for paint. Starting to find a few surprises.......

DanTheVanMan wrote:

crazee wrote:I buy "Purple Power de-ruster" from Advance Auto. Like $6 a QUART!
It kills rust GREAT! ..then I prime and paint.
Completely killed all the rust on many LBC's ( Little Brit Cars) and it never returns.
Cheaper than POR or Eastwood.......easier to use and IMHO works better.

Well $6 a qt. I may have to try some. Just started prepping the van for paint. Starting to find a few surprises.......

YEP........I actually like it better than POR15 or the Eastwood stuff.

I sprayed the stuff on an old rotted Subaru a couple years ago as a test.

Heavy rot around wheels........around 30F degrees out ..snow on car.

NO PREP.........just soaked the rotted areas.

Withing 24 hours it completely destroyed all the rust...GONE! to the good metal and then turned all light rust black. I painted black in the spring with rustoleum paint and a brush..... and to this day the area is still rust free.

NO SHIT!

Made a true believer out of me.


Why pay high dollar and bust your ass when you can buy this stuff for $6 a quart??????

It's also sold as something called "The Right Stuff". Same stuff/ different name.

Thanks crazee. That's a good second opinion.... Started stripping the van this weekend and found a few surprises like I said.... Driver's headlight bucket, Upper left & right corner's of the windshield.... It's amazing what paint can hide. I only saw a few pin holes but when I took the drill with a wire-wheel to it, "SURPRISE"...The shirt under the front bumper has issues as well but havent decided on a course of action on it yet.. Going to remove all the "Body Seams" and "GutterTabs" while I'm at it....

Yep...amazing what you find when you go cleaning with wire wheeels.........lol

I'll tell ya.
Replacing metal with metal is always the best way. If & when practical.

But to be truthful.....those buckshot looking spots can be nicely repaired by using a good rust converter/killer as described and then repairing with fiberglass jell.

I've come to love fiberglass jell for repairing small or strange shaped spots.

And good fiberglass jell never cracks or draws moisture like body putty and is stronger.

It's always great seeing a nice flat front van saved.

Dan , Look foreward to seeing some pics of your van as you proceed. Bill

The best way to fix that problem is to remove the rusty stuff and replace it with new metal.

I had to do the lower windshield frame for my 2nd gen.






welded in new metal



after a skim coat of filler I used a good 2k primer



then paint



it took me about two months to do this job .The effort was well worth it.
over five years later ,no bubbles No problems.This van sets OUTSIDE every day



Sorry there is NO miracle cure for eliminating rust.........

..............Wookee

Thanks for the ideas and pic's.

I'm a real believer in replacing metal with metal. I hit it all with purple power converter last night and it looks pretty good this morning. Going to spend the day cutting replacement metal. and pull out the mig tomorrow. Luck for me those few spots were it. from the front doors back the van is solid as a rock!

Wookee, If you do find a "Miracle cure" let me know. I know a few buyer's. GM, Ford, Dodge for starters... lol

Take lots of pics!!!

Wookee wrote:..................
Sorry there is NO miracle cure for eliminating rust.........

..............Wookee

Actually the Purple Power or Right Stuff is "ALMOST A MIRACLE CURE".

It will go a long, long way to preventing further rust after it destroys the already present rust.
FACT!

WOE UNTO YOU THEE NON-BELIEVER!!!!!!!!!!!!

Seriously...........don't knock it till you try it dude.

I play with little British cars ( as 1 example).....since the 70's.......so I'm an expert on rust and rot. <wink>

But I do realise you can lead a horse to water but you can't make it drink.

DanTheVanMan wrote:................. I hit it all with purple power converter last night and it looks pretty good this morning. ............................

PS.......don't get that crap on yer skin and FOR SURE not in your eyes.

As far as GM, Ford & etc.....interested in rust prevention.....NAW!!!.........they want them cars to rot....so they can sell you more dude! Corporations care ONLY ABOUT $$$$$$$$$$ ........not making the best product.

Another tip is this..........welds RUST FAST........are very prone to this........as most already know. The purple Power & it's cousins will treat good metal also to prevent future rust. SO....after you weld in new metal and such...........clean & then treat the welds & new metal with the Purple Power stuff and you'll make it never rust again. ( BOTH SIDES of surface is best).

And use Fiberglass jell instead of plastic putty as your surface skim if needed..............again...no cracking, shrinking or moisture draw. Old fashioned BONDO is like a horse & buggy........"some people" still use them/it..but WHY.......there are much better ways.

Wookee wrote:I am always open to new ideas products to help save out beloved vans.

The main problem in this area (mid atlantic rust belt) is the radical temperature changes.
On these vans and 60's cars and trucks the metal in areas that where sealed tubes. Rocker panels,windshiels frames door posts. lower door cavities,ect.
The metal was not protected in any way and where left untreated.Bare naked.Combine that with condensation that forms when warm air is traped inside an area that is surrounded by cold air.Rust will form on this untreated steel........
Being a life long welder fabricater. i have been inside more that one rocker panel to see this rusted untreated metal up close and personal.
My 69 chevy was Ziebarted from the factory.All of the rockers where still im place.The only areas that where rusty where areas that did not get treated,or painted from the factory,(the lower windshield frame)........
When ever I get inside a sealed panel I always try to treat ,paint, seal up ,what ever bare metal I can to help stop the dreaded Rustys from returning ...........

............Wookee

Yeah..........I've gotten in the habit of drilling access holes into frames and rockers and such on my Brit car restores..............then spraying in huge amounts of the purple power.......stuff is as good or better than Ziebart. I have an old Cherokee that was ziebarted & she is still very solid.

I also now treat all replacement panels with the purple power as it actually soaks into the metal surface and protects it as well as destroying rust after.

PS.............I live in the Ohio River valley in south/central Ohio...........the mid-atlantic doesn't have nothing on us for rust weather..............