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BRINGING IT ALL TOGETHER.... A's, G's & E's


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donivan65
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    Hard brakes.......!

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    Post by Guest Thu Aug 06, 2009 12:47 pm

    My wife and I just bought a great old '65 Chevy that we fell in love with.

    Its a daily driver that has a host of little things that will need fixed as we go.

    My first concern is the brakes, after everything warms up the pedal gets harder and harder to the point where its even dragging the brakes a little. The previous owner said he thought it was the master cylinder, which I have a spare of. Does this make sense? Is the master cylinder swap pretty straight forward?

    thanks!

    mark in Portland Oregon
    Scott
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    Registration date : 2008-05-20

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    Post by Scott Thu Aug 06, 2009 1:02 pm

    Hey Mark,

    Welcome to the site..

    I'm not sure if the Master Cylinder is causing the problem, or multiple things, but you might consider replacing the lines and rebuilding the wheel cylinders.

    Unless someone else already did the rebuild, your brakes are about 43 years old, and the lines corrode from the inside out. The lines are really pretty cheap, and easier then you think to replace.

    I know it’s not what you want to hear, but better to consider it now, instead of when some kid runs out in front of you.
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    Post by Guest Thu Aug 06, 2009 1:07 pm

    Scott-

    Thanks for the info. Where do I get the lines, and is there a rebuild kit available for the wheel cylinders? I don't mind doing the work. How much money are we talking here for the parts?

    mark in Portland
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Thu Aug 06, 2009 2:36 pm

    1st, get rid of that single line master cylinder,,,,add a dual line line one off a 67-70 Chevy Van,,,,here is what you can get at Napa for new brake lines,,,,and 7/8" bore rear wheel cylinders #37024, are like $7 at Napa,,,,,your brakes are probably glazed and dragging, so you will need new shoes,,,,,,


    Hard brakes.......! Brake_13
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    Post by Guest Thu Aug 06, 2009 4:46 pm

    THanks for all the great info.

    Whats the benefit of having the double master cylinder? I've got a functional single one I was going to use. I don't have a ton of $$.
    And you mentioned the rear cylinder part #'s, what about the front?
    If I stuck with the single just for now how much of the same brake line in the diagram would I need?

    thanks!

    mark in Portland
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    Post by Guest Thu Aug 06, 2009 6:54 pm

    The advantage of having a dual master cylinder is safety. It is two separate reservoirs, one for front, one for rear. In the odd case of something in the system springing a leak, if you have a single reservoir you now have NO BREAKS, verses a double reservoir, you have HALF BREAKS. It is kind of a "MUST" upgrade.
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    Post by Guest Thu Aug 06, 2009 8:04 pm

    Yeah it makes sense.

    NAPA has a new double MC for $38.

    Questions is, as to the diagram above, is there a pre-bent kit available or do I need to get all that stuff seperate?

    And I can use the same front wheel cylinders but need different ones on the rear?

    thanks!

    mark
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    Post by Guest Thu Aug 06, 2009 8:16 pm

    I had an International P/U that did that. It turned out to be to little free play in the pedal assembly. It was a quick adjustment and the brakes were fine after that.
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Thu Aug 06, 2009 8:33 pm

    Those Napa brake lines are spring wound,,,,,so you can bend them,,,,,The 1965 Chevy Vans came in an Early version and a late,,,,,,Early ones have 2 latches on the Doghouse and 5 slot grilles,,,,they have different sized wheel cylinders,,,,,Front cylinders are 37022 and 37023,,,,about $25 each,,,,,,you may not be able to get the exact ones you need anymore. You need to cut out the rear section of your bracket to accommodate the longer 2 line master cylinder. On that master cylinder push rod,,,you need freeplay,,,,,,that bolt that holds it to the brake pedal is a cam,,,,loosen the nut,,,,,turn the bolt until the rod is a little loose and tighten the nut......


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    Post by Guest Thu Aug 06, 2009 10:23 pm

    Question is: what are the pros/cons of getting the rebuild kit for the wheel cylinders (much cheaper) as opposed to the new cylinders?

    I actually pick the van up next week so I can't check as to weather or not its an early or later '65.

    I'm gonna get the new MC from NAPA, all the metal lines/fittings shown above, figure out the wheel cylinder business, what else would I need? I've never done this much work on any brake system before so this will be a good learning experience!!

    What is the "brake line hose" that NAPA shows on its site? They don't have the hard lines listed, just this hose for front and back........

    thanks for all the help!

    mark in Portland
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Thu Aug 06, 2009 11:56 pm

    The wheel cylinder kits are the rubber pieces in it. You can use them if the bores are still good or just need honing out. And the van also has 3 rubber brake hoses on it, 2 at each front wheel, 1 on the rear end. Brakes are the MOST IMPORTANT thing on the van, so you really need to get it as good as you can. And the brake system on a 64-66 Chevy Van is really primitive,,,,and after 40 years,,,,,unsafe. So we upgrade our systems,,,,,a dual line master cylinder,,,,front disk brakes,,,,,rear disk brakes,,,,,braided steel brake lines,,,,,,,POWER front and rear disk brakes,,,,,,,we got it all going on here. When you get the van, check it out,,,,see what you got,,,,,see what you need,,,,,,we can get you through any problems that you run into,,,,,
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    Post by Guest Fri Aug 07, 2009 10:08 am

    Well I've learned alot about this van in the last few days, actually now I'm thinking I should have held out for a later van with more updated brake system but this van just captivated us......!

    So alot of things will be answered when I get the van and can get under the thing to see whats things look like.

    As far as basic safety, if I upgrade the MC and keep the rest stock, as in drums all around, am I at least pretty good for putzing around town? This is really the rig for getting my music gear to the shows and maybe to the beach/camping once in awhile, I don't drive in heavy traffic etc.

    Thanks so much for all the info so far!

    mark in Portlan
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    Post by donivan65 Fri Aug 07, 2009 10:44 am

    You just follow the technology,,,,,they keep improving,,,,,and they quit using that suicide 1 line master cylinder in 1966,,,,,because one leak,,,,in the brake line, hose or wheel cylinder and WHEN, not IF, the master cylinder wears out and you aint got no brakes,,,,so they added another line and circuit as a back up in 1967,,,,,and that is a good thing,,,,,you need brakes,,,,,there is not much protection if you run into something. And drums are OK, they take more maintaining to keep them working. Its just there are a few rules for 40 year old vans,,,,#1---brakes,,,,,,#2---get a good radiator,,,,,#3---drain and clean the gas tank,,,,,you will have nothing but trouble if you don't take care of these basic things.......
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    Post by Guest Fri Aug 07, 2009 11:27 am

    So, I can get the dual MC listed on the NAPA catalog for $38 (the one listed for the post '67 vans), plus new wheel cylinders (the two listed on the chart above for the rear plus whatever the fronts are), new drums, new E-brake stuff will be needed too.

    What I need to know is: besides the 3 rubber hoses and all the metal lines and accessories shown in the chart above, what else do I need? I've read about some valve I might need? And do I need to cut the metal lines to fit? I'm a real novice with brakes!! I've done tons of other work but never did anything more than pad/rotor stuff with brakes........

    thanks!

    mark
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    Post by donivan65 Fri Aug 07, 2009 2:21 pm

    Napa rebuilt master cylinders are probably $18 if they take your old one in as a core,,,,,all lines bolt right in,,,,,,no extra valves for the basic system,,,,,,you need to cut the metal piece out of the rear end of the bracket,,,,I did this conversion on the Blue No Door so there are a bunch of pictures of the procedure if I can find that post,,,,,your drums might be OK,,,,,
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    Post by Guest Fri Aug 07, 2009 2:53 pm

    Yeah but I don't think I can take mine in for the core trade because mine is single and I want the double, right?

    Oh, and Napa lists only 2 hoses total for front and back not three.......???

    thanks!

    mark
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    Post by Guest Fri Aug 07, 2009 4:34 pm

    The front hose are not a left and right, thats why the one listing of for front. You will need 2 fronts and 1 rear.
    itruns
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    Post by itruns Fri Aug 07, 2009 5:26 pm

    For future reference, how do you guys bleed the system? I used a hand vacuum pump.
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Fri Aug 07, 2009 7:21 pm

    Its easy to do the fronts,,,just reach over and pull the brake pedal down and crack open the bleeders,,,,then I tie a rope on the pedal and run it under the front axle and pull on the rope to pump up the brakes and bleed them. There are a lot of other ways and equipment. And as for the core charge,,,,,IT DEPENDS,,,,like if the guy wants to get rid of that master cylinder that has been sitting on the shelf for 40 years, he probably won't care what is in that core box,,,,,just tell them,,,,you are upgrading to a newer style and does it matter if your core is different. Here is a conversion,,,one line, ( two of those 60" pieces connected together), goes to the rear brake hose, the other line goes to a "T" and go to each front brake hose....and here the braided steel line replaces the factory rubber hose that goes between the metal line and wheel cylinder......And you want a dual line 1967-70 master cylinder......


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    Post by Guest Sat Aug 08, 2009 10:22 am

    If I need two of the brake hoses for the front and one for the rear, why does NAPA charge twice the price for one of the fronts??

    Oh and Donivan, is the pic you listed earlier in this post with all the brake line parts and #'s coincide with the last post you made, that conversion? If so then what do you use the 3rd 60" piece of brake line for? I'm just on a tight budget so I don't want to get anything extra.....!

    mark in Portland
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    Post by Guest Sat Aug 08, 2009 11:10 am

    Hey Donivan, the brake rod adjustment comment earlier, do you think that's why the brakes get really hard?

    mark
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    Post by donivan65 Sat Aug 08, 2009 11:11 am

    That parts list is for the pictures that you see, which is Vanishes' Blue 1964 No Door Van. And here is a link to Scotts modifications on his 2nd Gen,,,,,some of it is different than yours but you can get a feeling of what it is going to take,,,,,I will get you more info on a 1st Gen conversion,,,,,,


    https://servimg.com/view/12523077/30
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Sat Aug 08, 2009 11:15 am

    That push rod adjustment is #1 suspect,,,,,the piston needs to come all the way back to release the pressure and the push rod would stop it if it was out of adjustment,,,,,and the brake shoes might be glazed and cracked if this went on too long,,,,,I will dig up a picture of the adjustment later,,,,,,
    ViewMaster
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    Post by ViewMaster Sat Aug 08, 2009 12:12 pm

    These bleeder screws with a check valve in them help a lot when bleeding brakes by yourself. I've found them in the HELP section of auto parts stores.
    Hard brakes.......! Bleeder1
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    Post by itruns Sat Aug 08, 2009 12:46 pm

    ViewMaster wrote:These bleeder screws with a check valve in them help a lot when bleeding brakes by yourself. I've found them in the HELP section of auto parts stores.
    Hard brakes.......! Bleeder1

    Thanks. Looks like that can be very helpful.

    With the master cylinder so close the to the wheel cylinder height, gravity bleeding is out of the question. I spent a good amount of time trying to get mine bled.

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