Removing the ignition switch 1969 A108

I need to remove the ignition switch on the dash to check it out, as I'm having occasional starting problems again, and all the other component of the starting system checked out okay [i]this time[/i].  I've had times when I turn the key and nothing for three times, take the key out, stick it back in, turn it and it starts. Or it will start ok, the next time it won't, the time after that it will. The ignition switch looks like it might be the original one from 1968.

I know there is a ring on the outside with notches on the side, like where you would put a spanner wrench and I assume that is what is holding the switch to the dash. Before I start turning it, can anyone confirm I am correct and that it is a right hand thread to remove it?

yes, rite tite left loose

Kermit,
Some of the replacement ignition switches have an additional ground tab on the back, which may have a grounding wire connected. Make sure you check the connectivity of that tab on any new switch that you buy. On one that I got, that tab showed connectivity between the bat tab and it when the switch was in the accessories position. I don't know why that is, but I did not connect the "GRD" tab to anything on my '65 A100. If my ignition switch needs a ground, it gets it from being mounted and touching bare metal when it is screwed on the dash. I believe that switch is defective.

I'm still tracing electrical problems on my A100 too. It takes persistence. If you have an automatic, make sure the neutral safety switch it working. They do wear out and can work intermittently. A schematic can be found in a factory service manual for your year is very helpful and can be downloaded from an online source.

Tap the ring with a flat-tipped screwdriver (cover the tip), slip the switch out, take a picture of the wires, or make a drawing. You should be good to go. Before all that try cleaning the switch, forgot to put that first sorry about that.

sweetvan wrote:Kermit,
Some of the replacement ignition switches have an additional ground tab on the back, which may have a grounding wire connected. Make sure you check the connectivity of that tab on any new switch that you buy. On one that I got, that tab showed connectivity between the bat tab and it when the switch was in the accessories position. I don't know why that is, but I did not connect the "GRD" tab to anything on my '65 A100. If my ignition switch needs a ground, it gets it from being mounted and touching bare metal when it is screwed on the dash. I believe that switch is defective.

I'm still tracing electrical problems on my A100 too. It takes persistence. If you have an automatic, make sure the neutral safety switch it working. They do wear out and can work intermittently. A schematic can be found in a factory service manual for your year is very helpful and can be downloaded from an online source.

One thing I've noticed about this A108 is that I've never been able to start it in neutral, even way before my current starting issues. Every other vehicle I've ever owned can start in neutral, is that a design thing with the A108 Tradesman, or an indicator that something is wrong?

Hypothetical question, if it was the neutral safety switch, why would it fail to start when I turn the key, then when I turn the key back, take out the key and start over, it suddenly starts up, without me doing anything to the shifter? Also vice versa, I turn the key, it starts, I turn it off, take key out, put it back in and try it again, no go.

Some additional info. I was going to remove the switch but found out I didn't have time, something I have to do that is unexpected, will have to do later. I did try to start it a few times, pressing in on the key, no luck. The lock cylinder seems loose inside the switch. Just out of curiosity, with the switch in the off position, I pressed left and right on the sides of
the cylinder lock back and forth a couple of times, then gently turned the key, started right up. It might mean something, it might not. I turned it off, waited, then gently turned the key (not pressing in) started right up.

The '68 already had a brake warning light. This one is connected to the Ign Switch and connected to GND to light the light while cranking. Works wonderful. In all other positions, you'll measure almost full Bat voltage (it is connected to the light, which is connected to 12v.

Anyway. You hardly can clean those switches, because it would need to be disassembled. Re-assembly is then kind of hard, because the cover has been notched, to hold it in place.
Ask me how I know: I had a bad Ign switch on my 79 Dodge camper - when I turned it in ACC it was always cranking. Changed the switch - all good. And I dismantled the broken switch - there's not much in it to clean.

Just replace it and re connect all wires as was before (usually, there's a matching connector, just the one wire (IIRC the brake warning ligtht) is one additional connector. If this connector is still in place - you can't really mess it up.

Thanks 69. I could not understand why the "GRD" tab would have power to it because I thought that meant ground. So my switch is probably OK and my suggestion is still don't connect it directly to a ground. Going through a warning light would be ok.

Kermit,
The keyed tumbler fits loosely inside the ignition switch. You will need to remove the tumbler from your old switch. You do that by pressing in on the small pin in the tumbler and turning the key to the start position then pull the tumbler out with the key.
Make sure that you disconnect the battery before changing any electrical parts.