64’ g-10 auto trans rear mount fabrication

I’d like to switch to a auto trans from the three on the tree I have now. Are there any problems that I’ll run into or need to know ?
I know I’ll need to have a drive shaft made up.
Been there done that before.
Does anyone have any ideas on fabricating or purchasing a rear transmission mount for my 64’ g-10. As far as what type of auto trans maybe a 200-4R. or what ever will work the best for the application. Any feedback will be much appreciated.
Thanks StuartG

https://vintage-vans.forumotion.com/t17281-transmission-mounts?highlight=Auto+transmission+swap

Use the search feature on this site to find great info on tons of stuff..... I just did to provide you the above link

Much Thanks

200 4r will use the same length shaft. I think the yoke is different? I have made several hangers over the years but eventually went to a crossmember. I had lowered engine/trans. for the added height of 292 and between that and a few other factors, it swung around a bit. you should be fine with a hanger but it was actually easier to install the crossmember. pay close attention to the t.v. cable bracket, it is not a kick down.

Thank you very helpful

The TV cable on the 200-4R sounds like a big pain if not adjusted right it will burn out the trans.. Is there another trans I can use without to many body or frame mods? And you mentioned lowering the 292 because of deck height. Dose that have to be done and if so is it hard to do?
Thanks for your time Stu

i dropped it so everything up top lined up and air cleaner fit. you don't have to lower the engine for the 292, some have made other mods to fit. lowering it consists of getting longer crossmember bolts and adding spacers, I used a couple large nuts (3/4-1"?). both the 200 4r and 700r4 use a t.v. cable. it isn't that complex, just needs to be right! any 4 barrel has readily available brackets, I had to make my own for my webers. the 4l60 or 4l80 is electronic and probably a better choice but you then need a controller. heard a few complaints on the cheaper ($800.00) controllers but no first hand experience. while not the prettiest, this is within 0.010"

Two options for "bolt-in" automatic swaps for your van: Find an original van powerglide (with the built in hanger) or short-shaft th350 with the th350 factory hanger.

I see of the mounts here. http://www.vcvc.org/showthread.php/31626-Parting-69-108-update

those two transmissions in the vcvc link are the original van powerglide.  Probably the simplest and easiest swap to automatic, but its only a 2-speed

I'm of the opinion that the frame rails on these vans are not constructed of thick enough material to safely bolt, or even weld any crossmember mounts to.....They are hollow and made out of sheet metal that appears to be less than 60 thousandths thick.... If you thru-bolt, you can't tighten the bolts enough in sheer to positively lock mount pads in place vertically, even if you cinch the bolts so tight that you crush the box...…
What I have done on my 108 van to allevi8 this issue, is that I opened long enough slots in the floor directly above the frame rails to slip a 2 foot long piece of 2x2x1/4" receiver tube inside each rail to internally stiffen the structure enough that thu-boltings can be properly tightened without crushing and breaking the box structure...…
Beyond that, I made "cuffs" by cutting one side out of 8-9" pieces of 2.5" x 1/4" receiver tube, and welded the mounting feet to these cuffs.....
I then thru-bolted the cuffs through the frame and inner 2x2" vertically, sandwiching the original frame between two heavier and longer structures to spread the weight over two feet of the inside of both frame rails, and the clamping force of the half inch bolts pits the
4" outer "cuff" against the structural strength of the two foot inner piece of 2x2x1/4"
I could also cross-bolt horizontally (in sheer) if I wanted to because of the strength of the side walls of the cuffs, but two bolts vertically is all that the stock engine crossmember uses on each side, so I think that's enough...

EDIT!...… The cuffs are actually 3" heavy square tubing by 1/4" wall making them 2.5" wide on the inside...…….2.5 receiver tube is 2" ID-- too narrow to slip over the frame rail..... Frame rail is 2.5" od
...

jrinaman wrote:200 4r will use the same length shaft. I think the yoke is different? I have made several hangers over the years but eventually went to a crossmember.

You mean you made a hanger like the factory one that bolts on to the tail of a TH350? Have any pictures?

made one similar to that for the 700. the 200 cant be bolted that way so I used a standard mount underneath and a cage around it. unfortonatly it swung around to much from so I removed it.

Yeah I stumbled on VANAgain's posts and others on the hangers. Doesn't the 200R4 have a bolt hole(s) on the bottom that the crossmembers attach to? Use a 3rd gen crossmember?

I'm actually thinking of just going original with a Powerglide if I can find one off a van with the integrated hanger. It's not like I take my van to the track, it's a 250 six and I plan to keep it that way for the foreseeable future.