VintAGE-Vans

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BRINGING IT ALL TOGETHER.... A's, G's & E's


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sasktrini
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donivan65
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    1966 dual res mastercylinder ?

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    Post by Guest Wed Jun 10, 2009 2:01 pm

    Thanks,
    does it matter if the caliper rides in front or the back of the spindle?
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Wed Jun 10, 2009 2:21 pm

    It goes wherever it will fit,,,,,,our vans were not made for calipers,,,,,we got shocks, steering knuckles, drag links and sway bars up front, so the back is an easier place for a caliper to mount. They changed things around when they started putting calipers on vehicles. We are just adding parts to our vans to make up a system,,,,,,and hopefully a SAFE and DEPENDABLE system. So common sense is more important than a part number. And some people have more sense than others,,,,,,but you are doing good figuring out your system so far.......
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    Post by Guest Wed Jun 10, 2009 6:51 pm

    Thanks Smile

    My bracket interferes with the drag link arm on the left side so the caliper has to be in front of the spindle. I switched around and everything fit good.
    Bleeders are on top.
    Nobody at the zone could identify my rotors or pull something off the shelves and match. They could only tell me that these are rear rotors because of the e brake feature.
    They made a call to a guy with a brake lathe in his garage four blocks away and one hour later I had freshly turned rotors for $6 each and a new buddy with lots of tools and machines to fix stuff. Yay!
    I guess I have to live with slighty smaller rotors for now. Bought new pads and than more rain came.....
    Brought my old front steel braided brake lines to royal brass & hose.
    Got a good laugh from them 'cause they couldn't identify them as brake lines. They said these are some oil lines and not for brakes.
    Oh well, $50 later I had a pair of really nice steel braided lines in my hands.
    Hopefully no rain tomorrow.

    Cheers Smile
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    Post by Guest Fri Jun 12, 2009 10:00 pm

    Brakes are in and working good now.
    Front left is still sticking a little.
    Looked at the caliper position again and found that it could still go 1/4 inch into the rotor to get more brake pad on the rotor, the guide bolts have just over 1/4 clearance until they hit the rotor.


    Thanks for all your help, it's my daily driver now Smile
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    Post by Old Skool Sat Jun 13, 2009 7:04 pm

    Hey guys,, new to the site, perhaps a few know me from old econolines, vic, Have enjoyed reading here and there, few members have asked if I might like to join in and help if I can, so hope no one minds jumping in on this one.
    From the pictures, that is for sure an AFTERMARKET adapter setup to use a different M/C. Looks familiar, but will look up what I have later on, Maverick or Mustang I think? anyways,, noticeing couple of things first off. The pics dont show all of it,, but looks like at least part of the 67 two pc white plastic brake light switch cover, the 67 offset return spring bracket, and suspect the 67 brake switch,, also pictured just under that, antoher pressure type switch, which, would be my guess as to the early brake light switch setup, however, only hooked up to one circuit????? need more to talk about that??? as why use the two circuit 67 brake light switch, and then dissable it and use only one side????
    Our original 67 "distribution" block, was not actually a proportioning valve, and only had an idiot light switch to tell you a circuit was not operating. Also, if you try to use a "preset" proporioning valve, you are still guessing as to the brake bias of that vehicle it was intended for. Meaning it may or may not work for your econoline brake bias. whew,,, sorry, The reason I use an adjustable proportioning valve and fine tune it to the vehicle.
    If the bore is pitted, it can leak pressure backwards and or not hold the pressure, but that M/C looks pretty new?? I would suspect firstly air in the pistons or lines, rear wheel cylinders, or also a leak in any of those, to include the brake lines.
    There are quite a few conversions out there, I make and sell one also. Part of designing the setup is the original rotor and piston travel, versus the conversion rotor thickness and travel?? and proper pad placement on the rotor, sometimes hanging over is okay, but consider that is less stopping area applied, and wears things funny. Personally, was very careful in designing that out of mine. That should not be making the problem you are having. Suggest cleaning everything spotless with brake cleaning solvent, drive it IF YOU CAN SAFELY, or pump the heck out of it, even if only in reverse and forward in the driveway, and inspect everything carefully again, if its leaking, and you cleaned it good it will show. Also it is said, especially on the 67 brass seats are over tightened, it can leak only on the return stroke, and not on the pressure stroke, sucking in air also.
    vic/ca
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    Post by Vanish Sat Jun 13, 2009 7:37 pm

    Old Skool..... Great to Have ya here with us !!!!!!!! Welcome in .....

    61econoline
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    Post by 61econoline Sat Jun 13, 2009 8:10 pm

    welcome vic glad to see you here great site as is oldeconolines Mick
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    Post by Old Skool Sat Jun 13, 2009 8:12 pm

    Thnx guys,, was worried about jumping in as a newbie,, LOL....
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    Post by Vanish Sat Jun 13, 2009 8:15 pm

    Vic.... you ain't a Newbie No More !!!! lol!

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    Post by fmc56 Sat Jun 13, 2009 11:22 pm

    Vic,
    Welcome!!! It's about time you joined.
    Fred
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    Post by Guest Sun Jun 14, 2009 8:38 pm

    Thanks for the input old school and welcome to the forum Smile
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    Post by G-Man Sun Jun 14, 2009 9:19 pm

    Old Skool you'll find this isn't one of those sites. New opinions and knowledge are alway welcome here

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