1966 dual res mastercylinder ?

Hi all,
My Master brake cylinder (dual reservoir) is going south and I can't find anything here or at rockauto/macs.
I have front diskbrakes.
Any idea where to look?

Also the "modern forum" upgrade bracket ($299) plus wilwood MC ($120) plus prop valve sounds a little steep to me for not having a booster after a $ 500 brake upgrade.
Anyone done that?

Thanks

low pedal, have to pump a couple of times until it comes up.
I don't think there's a leak it's holding fluid well.
I was hoping for a quick exchange, don't have my own garage.

Thanks

A 66 should be a single master,not dual. If the lid is round its a single,rectangular,then it's a dual. I guess its possible a very late model 66 could have the dual unless someone converted it already. You can send it off to White Post or Sierra Specialties and have them resleeve it,then install a new kit. Total cost about $150.00 I believe both have websites and do pretty quick turn arounds. Both are highly recommended,never heard anything bad about either of them.

I have no idea, can't reach the previous owner. It's a dual, looks like a disk kit, cause the pads are slightly too big. Brakes where always sticking after stopping harder. bled the sytem three times last 6 months and rebuild the rear brake assembly and adjusted it.

I'm going to give white post a call since it's close by.

Thanks

Thanks Don,
Good pointers

Yep, I would definately bench test the master before spending that kind of money. Don is King!

Later,
Rip

I had that problem also. I could pump them up and get pressure but after a minute or two there was no pressure again. I rebuilt my master cylinder and got the same thing. After a very close inspection. I found that i had a very , very small hole in my front brake hose. Replaced the hose and problem was solved. Make sure you take a real close hose at all your lines and connections I could of saved my self alot of time if I had done that instead of a quick glance at them. Hope this helps.

I'll try to explain, coming off the interstate to a traffic light I usually don't have much pressure so I pump twice to slow down and build pressure and than once more and release to roll up to the light but the front brake still brakes. It was much worse when I bought it. I replaced the rear brake assembly, wheel cylinders and shoes. Bled the system and it got better but still not right.
The front brake pads are a little too big (the pads hang over the rotors) but still enough meat on them.
I only had time to look at the lines today while my friend pumped the pedal.
Couldn't find any leaks or fluids.
Here is how it looks like.

Oops, I shouldn't tie the oil pressure line to the brake lines

Yes they do. what is that pin for?
What kind of plug would I need?
Do I have to drain the MC before opening the plug?

Thanks.

You definitely do not have an Econoline master cylinder. Most likely it is a Granada or Mustang unit. Someone made the mounting bracket, looks like a good job. The important issue with the M/C is that is for a manual front disc/ rear drum brake application. Most Fords had power discs. If yours is for power discs you will have to press very hard on the pedal for the brakes to work. Mavericks and Granadas were avaiable with manual. All of the Ford M/C's that I have seen from the 60's and 70's use the same mounting flange so they are physically interchangeable. If it turns out that the M/C is no good check out the Maverick /Granada one, it should be identical to what you have. The compression fittings on the lines going to the brake light switch aren't a very good idea, you should have double flare fittings. You can buy a tee with the correct fittings for this application from Total Performance in CT.
The fact that you have to pump them to get good pressure may also be the result of the pushrod being to short and not moving the piston enough on each stroke. In this case your pedal would have a lot less travel and sit lower to the floor than normal. If the brakes are staying engaged it could be a front drum M/C. They have a 10 lb residual valve compared to the 2 lb one for the discs and would keep the caliper from releasing as quickly as it should causing the brakes to stay on.
Fred

wow, thanks for all the info.
I had to press hard to get it to brake a little. pedal sits much higher than the gas pedal and goes all the way down.

could i get another mc at an auto parts store?

Good Idea, I'll start over fresh.
I'll test the mc first and upload some pics of the calipers/rotors.
Thanks a lot for the help.

Cheers

Had to stay at work and came home later so not much progress.
I couldn't find any bolts that plug into the mc so I just took the whole thing out. There was a spacer piece of push rod falling out (see pic).
The guys at autozone couldn't indentify it , we looked at '70 granada, maverick but they didn't have those in stock so I ordered those.
I couldn't believe how cheap these are, $17 reman and $ 35 for the other.











I plan to take pics of the front calipers tomorrow, I didn't have a socket for the lug nuts.

Cheers

I don't think I can measure the piston deph hole unless I take it apart.
Bore size is 14mm
The pushrod has a total lenth of 96mm
The little pushrod piece that fell out the bore is 14mm long.
The plastic switch was attached to the rod but not hooked up electrically.

Didn't get to the rotor pics today, my daily driver broke down.
Now I have to get the van fixed asap.

Here's a front view of the mc in the bracket.