shift column top cap

So Fairbanks is junkyard hell.  Basically one yard in town with acres and acres of not much!

In my search for E parts:
steelies: $45/each
alloy: $65/each
Kia Rio seats (should work): $75/side
Subaru XT6 seats (still want to try):  $100/side

There is a single '68-'74 with pristine shift column and heavier top cap.  They won't let me have the small part; all or nuttin'  Left with nuttin' for my rig.



I drilled out the rivets and pulled my shift column top cap pieces out.  I have pried a little and banged on it some but unable to get splined rivet? to back out in order to separate the little top cap.  If I can't find a heavy cap, I will weld something heavy.  Has anyone come up with a way to pull that rivet out?  Could just weld over the top but I'm sure someone has done this.

You should get ahold of Victor La Fountaine, aka Old Skool Econoline Engineering. If anyone knows a good way to separate that joint it's him.

eight one ate 3 threee five tree oh 33

Copy that. Will probably hit Vic up for full rebuild. Just wanted to make the shifting a little more dependable and thought pulling that rivet may help. Have somehow got the shift linkage "over-center" a couple times. Only fix was to jump out and push linkage back through grill. With no other permanent fix at hand, may just weld it together, adding some extra support.

THANK YOU SETH!!!

     That part is NOT a rivet!!!!!!!!!!!! It is stamped down and mushroomed over the mount. Typically broken (over a hundred of broken ones here) Quite often LOCKED up as the factory clearance very tight. I sometime sacrifice the later stronger support to repair broken 4 spd steering columns as they break exactly the same however the shift post itself different and only used on the 4 spd. I figured out a way to do that and believe me, that part is squashed down...  LOL
  The heavier duty part is a RARE PART as those trucks were 95% automatics in the 1st place and so  not very common to begin with.
 I have been using that part in my rebuild service for many years now and NOW also replace the end of the shift tube itself also. The OEM shift tube made of mild steel and the shift pin and shifters both being hardened. First finding these issues over 50 years ago,,, LOL
  When the shift pin cannot find the opposing neutral gate it will NOT shift and leave you stuck in gear. The alignment so critical that if slightly off it will not engage. When I replace the solid metal end if the hole is not EXACTLY DEAD CENTER it will not shift and very critical. ALSO, the shifters being hardened make replacing that pin with an over sized pin not use able as the alignment so critical. In addition to that, the shift arms needing slide over a smooth surface of which is usually also worn out to add slop. With that being said,,  I REPLACE THE WHOLE END of the shift tube with COLD ROLLED steel which is much tougher than mild steel and solves all the issues.
OLDSKOOL

Recent EMERGENCY ORDERS not picked up..... someone always in a hurry,,, And yes,, there are three types of mounting brackets and the 63/64's being different than a 65 to 67. I would post pictures again if I could,,,SO,, I have in stock and ready to go..
 
1964 three spd manual with E flasher option.       $275 EXCHANGE....... 1964 hardest core to find
1965 three spd manual without E flasher option    $245 EXCHANGE

   NOTE:  i DO NOT supply the shift knobs as Carpenters will not give me a volume discount. As I completely sandblast all the parts I cannot properly clean the shifters with the knob attached which are usually worn out anyways. I use high end Dupont two part black primer ($386 per gallon and no longer top coat. ALSO to avoid any confusion,,, I do not supply the flasher units as part of the rebuild but do have an extensive supply of them. 
 I have been actively working on getting parts for these for many years and have ANYTHING to do with them in stock. The other day driving over 100 miles to get that one part.  Old metal is gone....

I have no idea of why, but seems the pictures will post today??? I forgot to mention in my rebuilds I also do as standard my bronze bearing update and also include a plastic shift indicator of you choice.  Here are the plastic shift indicator plates that I make as well as detailed pictures of the three different dash and bracket combos for particular years. See if the pics fly today?
OLDSKOOL

Just got my rebuilt column from Vic today.

Looks great, now I have to figure out how to install it!

(Thanks Vic)

Where does the bronze bearing go Vic?

Okay,,, For years now people have always been trying to outwit or copy and or steal my ideas.    Cant fault people for wanting to save money and you have been very fair and nice and a very innocent question....  Its been obvious to all that have studied my pictures and so really no secret so will explain in detail. This being only part of a the steering column issues. 
  The OEM setup uses a plastic bushing in the lower aluminum mounting clamp. They are always gummed  or rusted up very badly or missing from being worn out. It is NOT a self lubricating material and can hinder the shift tube from moving up or down through it. 
 I use a SELF LUBRICATING bronze bearing and instead of installing it in the aluminum housing I install it in the support bracket instead. I machine the bearing in the lathe to allow for more adjustment spacers as well as boring out the aluminum bracket for additional clearance to the shift tube shaft itself. I do this as STANDARD to all of my rebuilt columns. 
   
OLDSKOOL

Re reading that post I dont want for you to think I am calling you anything....JUST SAYING I have been doing this for a very long time and many others have not been as nice and fair as you have been!!

MANUAL STEERING COLUMN REBUILD

Late model stronger upper shift tube support post installed with stainless fasteners and washers
Bronze bearing installed and shis
Sandblasted and primed with Du Pont two part BLACK epoxy primer
Aluminum bracket ored out for additional clearance and alignment
Upper steering bearing cleaned and replace if needed
Stainless Heli-Coil installed in lower aluminum bracket
Lower half of shift tube REPLACED with cold rolled steel
Knee knocker shift handle updated to bent shifter handle
Shifter also updated to detent pins and spring type from roll pin type
Pivot point in shift tube welded and re machined 
Upper bowl re worked for alignment and steering wheel gap clearance
NOTE: SHIFT HANDLE KNOB IS REMOVED and customer can purchase new ones from Carpenters or Mac's, etc,,,,

E FLASHER OPTION:
Upper bowl machined for  E flasher turn signal
E flasher steering wheel horn contact plate provided with option
E flasher turn lever supplied with option

Do you do this for the three speed column mine is super blown out at the bottom? I asked the initial question in hopes that it went up top. The plastic shim that is held down by a spring and holds the column shaft at center, seems pretty interesting to say the least, if you ask me anyways.lol do you know of anyone that has beefed up that top bearing at all? Now that I have the new Chevy box in there that is definitely the next week link.

Re read the post I have a 1966 three speed so $245 with exchange? I cut my steering column tube off the box. The shifter linkage is all intact though.

Please call me when you can. Preferably around 8am here if you can as it gets hectic during the day with all kinds of interuptions. Perhaps easier to just talk?
Sometimes works better.
  In our Econolines I am not understanding yours and perhaps me, however its confusing me.  I dont know of ANY of our Econoline steering columns that used a "PLASTIC SHIM" in ANY place or any of our steering columns AT ALL and so I am confused??  
   There IS a small spring under the steering wheel which pushes downward onto a TAPPERED METAL ALIGNMENT CONE WITH A SPLIT IN IT" THIS centers the steering wheel into the upper bearing that is in the top of the steering column.
  Trying to follow about the "super blown out bottom end" ??  Normally the steering column tube which is connected to the upper bowl is clamped in place to the steering box using the aluminum bracket with the neutral alignment hole in it. The tube is welded to a bowl and there is no box? If you are trying to say that you cut the bottom of the tube off of it at the top of the steering box then that would mean the core is no good to sell to someone else???
  There are no more Econolines coming out and so I have to protect my cores as if I can find them its getting more costly to do so. SO,  I ask please that I have at least a core to rebuild in the future. If its not re buildable then I am stuck loosing a core.
 If I am off base with this? sorry 
OLDSKOOL
818-335-3033

BTW the upper stock bearing for the steering wheel merely guides the steering shaft and really needs very much support at all. It works just fine with no forces other than keeping the shaft in the middle of the tube. The angled metal cone centering the wheel in that bearing....
OLDSKOOL