Slant 6 Engine Removal Questions

Hey everyone!

A while back I picked up a replacement 225 for my '67 3spd van (thanks for the reference mattimuss!) and I recently got the longblock rebuilt and am ready to get the new engine in.

I started to pull out the old motor last weekend and got stuck... This was my plan

1. Remove the transmission from below
2. Remove the clutch housing from below
3. Pull the radiator
4. Pull the motor out from top

I realized after getting a bunch of stuff unbolted, that it didn't look like I had enough clearance between the transmission mount and the crossmember to pull the transmission out of engagement with the engine and through the clutch housing.

I'm wondering if any of you have a documented process of removing a slant six engine from an A100 with the vehicle sitting in the driveway?

Documentation? Transmission & bell housing out from under, when you remove the trans hanger bolt the engine/trans will lean down in the rear so put a little support under the back part of the engine or have your hoist attached, there will be plenty of clearance to pull the trans and bell housing. The radiator can stay, if you haven't yet hook the hoist to the engine, if you have a A100 the engine can come out the side door or passenger door, if it is a A108 out the passenger door. Installation is the reverse.

Here is what I use to support the back of the engine, Yea it is a V8 but the principal is the same, when the 2X6 is not there the engine tilts far enough down on the blocks to either remove or install the trans.

Thanks guys! It was getting late and I was working by myself, and I wasn't sure if it was safe to let the motor tilt on the motormounts while I wiggled the tranny loose. I'll get back to work on Saturday!

Tilt yes but a controlled tilt, only tilt enough to slip the trans out, support the rear of the engine.

Is enough tilt tilted low enough to clear the mounting bracket/crossmember?

Also, it looks like the manual specs out pulling the transmission and the clutch housing/bell housing. Is this a must, or can I pull them both together (still attached)?

You tilt enough to clear the hanger, that is all that is needed. I do the trans then the bell housing, someone else will have to chime if they can be done together.

busman78 wrote:You tilt enough to clear the hanger, that is all that is needed. I do the trans then the bell housing, someone else will have to chime if they can be done together.

Thanks busman! You have made me feel better about tackling the project again. I'l rip that ol' 6 out ASAP.

PS,

I used a screw jack to hold up the rear of the engine, which I should be able to lower enough to get the tranny free when I get back to work.

I have heard early engines use a different size input shaft bushing than the later {70's} engines and if the replacement 225 was connected to an auto, may not be machined for the bushing!
Make sure your new engine will allow the trans to bolt up.
I did a quick check over at slantsix.org and they only list one bushing, so you may be okay.
Help! 14003 is the part number. I'd still double check the back of the crank before installing the engine. if you pull the trans and bellhousing first, you can even assemble to confirm before swapping engines.

RodStRace wrote:I have heard early engines use a different size input shaft bushing than the later {70's} engines and if the replacement 225 was connected to an auto, may not be machined for the bushing!
Make sure your new engine will allow the trans to bolt up.
I did a quick check over at slantsix.org and they only list one bushing, so you may be okay.
Help! 14003 is the part number. I'd still double check the back of the crank before installing the engine. if you pull the trans and bellhousing first, you can even assemble to confirm before swapping engines.

Thanks for the heads up, I will definitely take a look. My replacement motor is a '71 though so hopefully I'm in the clear.