engine removal

i want to replace my engine with a rebuilt one from auto zone and looked in the manual, it says to remove it from under the van, i dont have the height in my garage to jack the van up high enough to pull the engine from underneath, does anyone know if i can take it out from the side doors with a engine hoist ?

either, side doors or the passanger door . remove the tranny 1st.

thanks dix, i'll take it out through the side doors then there would be more room, i just hope a 2 ton engine hoist will extend far enough, btw, were you sending me a preregestation form for the butler show, john

I have been trying to get 1 for you

the hoist will adjust out mine was out all the way and it says 1/2 ton or 1,000 lb.

Done them thru the side and the front.
You should remove the fan and acessories for more radiator clearance.
You can remove the trans (use the hoist or a floor jack and a 2X4 to hold up the back of the engine) or leave the trans in place and support it using a floor jack. You can then use a tie-down strap to hold it up.
On a /6, the 2 holes in the top of the head are a great place to bolt the chain up. On a V8, you can go from the front corner of one head to the rear corner of the opposite head.
I'd post a couple pics, but the "new and improved" photobucket is SHIT!

thanks for all the info guys, i'll be takeing the trany out and getting it rebuilt the same time, this is a winter projesct, i wanted to know if i could do it in my garage or do it outside if the engine had to come out from under the van, thanks again rod, and for the pictures dix,

Took my 273 V8 out through the passenger door.

i'll bet it was tricky getting the engine out of a truck,

dodge man wrote:i'll bet it was tricky getting the engine out of a truck,

Nope.....very easy.

since i can take it out through the side doors it should be a breeze, a couple more car shows and then i'll be starting on it, i'll take plenty of pictures

Since you are holding off for a while, a couple suggestions:
Soak all related bolts with Liquid Wrench, PB Blaster or another product. It really slows your work when a bolt breaks!
Pressure wash or otherwise clean the area as much as possible a day or 2 before doing the work. This makes it a lot less messy and gives it time to dry.

Doing this also forces you to look things over, hopefully catching some of the stuff that needs a trip to the parts store BEFORE it's needed.

makes good sence Rod, i always use PB blaster that stuff works great, i have a new trany mount, i've replaced everything else, like belts, hoses, thermostat, it has a new water pump and alternator, i think when i buy the rebuilt engine it comes with all new gaskets, cant wait to get under way, i'll be installing headers with purple horny mufflers, aluminum intake and 4 brl. carb,i still need to figure out what headers to order, i guess 68 dodge pick up truck headers will work,

Since most hoists I have used dont leave me that solid feeling about their strength @ tyheir fullest length, I usually pull it from the pass door, then move it toward the back a little bit, set it down, relocate the hoist and remove it thru the cargo doors.

Thats just me though, I like that extra sense of "safe". Spe4cially when 400 pounds are hanging over me lol.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/380650340500?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
this is the one i have, i used it to pull a big block from a chevelle, it seams prity stought, but that is a good idea and saffer idea gothboy thanks for the help..

Well, logistically speaking, the safest route for you is to never be under it!

That hoist is probably nicer than mine too. haha!

yeah i would have it up on jack stands and block up the oil pan then remove the tranny first, i think i;ll remove the alternator and fan, and also remove the intake manifold first, then hook my chain from the front bolt hole in one head and then to the other back bolt hole of the other head, that way i would be removeing alot of weight from the engine, BTW has anyone had problems with worn out rubber moter mounts, i cant tell if mine are bad untill i remove them, i was just wandering if i should go ahead and get new ones while the engines out ? 50,00 bucks on ebay for a pair of them,

I would get the new mounts as long as the engine is out.

yeah i think i will, my luck one would brake if i dont, lol

John 1st let me work on a motor mount part number, 2nd take the dog house out. yank the tranny and carb then bolt bown a engine lift plate ($15.00 ) alternator should not be a problem also remove the belly pan and rad . leave the front of the dog house there, and drop the rad down then pull the engine,

sounds like a plan dix, yeah i thought 50.00 was kinda high for 2 mounts, if you know were i can get them cheaper that would be great

thanks buddy,

273/318 motor mounts ANCHOR 2338   BOURG WARNER 31-2338  SEALED POWER  270-2338  NAPA BK 6021221   Now john get some prices i'll look around i may have them but when i did mine i felt the mounts were to high and the motor was sitting on a slant or not sitting level. I didn't want to starve the motor of oil so i used a lower profile mount  Don't buy the mounts just get the prices  and we can talk at butler if you are alloud out to play !!!!!