Voltage (High)

I'm stumped on this I need the master on this one. Voltage regulator 14.9 - 15.5 seems to get that after it warms up sometimes it seems like it's working and the jumps up to high 15s

most likley the alternater is bad i just went thru this, you have some work ahead of you is the alternater a single field ?? if so it has to go along with the voltage regulator mine was spiking , it blue out a single field alternator the voltage regulater both headlights and a turn signel and melted the wire at the amp gauge to the alternater, the problem starts at the amp gauge look at the posting i send next it shows how to update to a newer system

,,,,if you have the stock 1 wire field on the alternator and the 2 wire, (FLD/ IGN) voltage regulator,,,,check the voltage at the IGN terminal,,,,,,if the voltage is over 14, then the problem is the regulator,,,,,it is supposed to stop sending a signal out the FLD terminal which tells the alternator to stop charging when voltage gets around 14,,,,,,,,,,,,some of those regulators have voltage adjuster screws,,,,,,,unplug the FLD wire off the regulator and see if voltage drops to check for shorted out field wires,,,,,,,

I took it out yesterday regulator appears to working jumping from 14.9 to 15.2 or so once I get to full charge should I worry about this the thing is I never was watching it so closely before all three voltage regulators do the same thing and also 2 alternators the alternator has a ground brush and field post on it

,,,,,is that voltmeter lying to you,,,,,,,,you cant be getting over 14.5 at the IGN terminal on the regulator IF the regulator is doing its job,its job is to shut off the alternator when the voltage gets to 14.5,,,,,,,,,,unless that field wire is shorted out and getting voltage from somewhere else,,,,,,,or a bad ground on the regulator,,,,,the temp affects the voltage regulator setting,,,,,but I think its higher when the engine is cold,,,,,,now here is how we fix our charging systems,,,,,,we get rid of the low output alternator or generator,,,,,and old wiring,,,,and regulator,,,,,by putting on an internal regulator, kinda 1 wire, 3rd Gen Chevy alternator,,,,,,,,,

most common problem for older dodge vehicles is a sticking regulator. if it's the old style mechanical unit make sure your fire insurance is paid in full. till you replace and rewire the van for an electronic one your vehicle is at risk. the purist of restorers want to keep everything stock and that's fine for a trailer queen / show vehicle but daily use not so much. 35 plus years pullin wrenches and mostly dodge stuff heed my words. toss the old mechanical point style regulator for an electronic version.

If your alternator has two field posts, take two wires from these posts to the regulator, direct, with no connectors inbetween. Replace the old mechanical alternator with an electronic one. That's a direct replacement. And with two wires from alternator to regulator, you have no issue with the whole field circuit (one to the regulator, the other to ground at the regulator).

I suggest to use AWG 12 wire, which should be ok for a normal alternator.

When I checked my alternator and regulator, it was approx. 5.5 amps running through the field wires (that's not the charge wire, for that I'd suggest at least AWG 4). AWG 12 should be good for up to 7 amps with a wire length of approx. 12 ft (one way).

Charge wire must take all electrical load - that's e.g. 7 amps for ignition, 6 amps for the head lights, add brake (3.5amps), turn signals (3.5amps). If you have a radio, check that, too. If it's something modern with say 100 watts, add another 15 amps. Just to be on the safe side. Instruments add a little, as do all the small lights. Wipers and heater blower draw a lot as well, as cigarette lighter.
That adds up to say 40-60 amps while driving - without charging the battery. For that load, AWG 3 would be appropriate from alternator to the first splice / ammeter gauge.
To ease load on the system, you could add a relay at the ignition system at the rear of the doghouse.

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Little feedback and thanks all. Well what the problem was bad parts at AutoZone the regulator out of box to high.chrysler type out of box set to high. So thanks Donovan for the tip you were right on as usual I had to adjust it. Thanks again you are the master....Here's a pic of the van so you can see what I'm cruising in these days.

This is what AutoZone sold me.

been there done that. you need to update your system i posted all the info

There is a solid state replacement for the old mechanical contacts type voltage regulator. It plugs into the same wiring, it's just solid state and is supposed to help with the gauge flutter and pulsing lights etc.

It's made/distributed by a company in Alabama called "Regitar", the part number is "C524", you can see it here.

You probably wont find these at your local parts house, Advance, O'Reilly, and AutoZone didn't have them close to me. They don't sell to the public but they gave me the number of a dealer that carries the part.

"J&N"
Contact number: 1-800-366-7100

J&N carries a lot of old electrical components from what they told me, starters, alternators etc.

The mechanical VR locally was $30-40, I got the solid state one for $8 + $10 or so for shipping/handling.

Awesome info thanks.Funny you mentioned the pulsating light why am I just having this issue and never before. I also was running a AutoZone regulator what type is that because my other 68 has the same one and it works great no pulses in light. I'm noticing it with the Chrysler type.

Van crazy wrote:Awesome info thanks.Funny you mentioned the pulsating light why am I just having this issue and never before. I also was running a AutoZone regulator what type is that because my other 68 has the same one and it works great no pulses in light. I'm noticing it with the Chrysler type.

its because of the mechanical regulator, some do it worse then others but the solid state regulator eliminates it.

The mechanicals are quite literally running off of heat generated by the amp draw and mechanical contacts/points. Thats why the headlights will pulse slowly sitting at a red light or other idle situation.

I ordered two of the solid state for the price of a single mechanical so I have a spare.

If you look closely at this picture you can see where the contacts are welded together on the top left corner (they aren't supposed to be) and that's what burns up your charging system and sometimes will literally set it on fire.

I was headed to a car show and noticed the system was charging wide open, contacts were welded in the regulator.

69,
In post #8, second sentence, you say to replace the mechanical "alternator" but I think you meant to say regulator. Right?

Uh-ohhh, you're perfectly right. The alternator will still be "mechanical"
I meant the regulator, indeed.

Sorry for the confusion.

Sweetvan, Rockauto got you covered for a replacement voltage regulator (for example).
They have the VR106 (for example), which should be electronic.

But in general, any (electronic) regulator for a pre 70's Mopar should work, as it's all the same basics

A NOS MOPAR electronic voltage regulator as used by Dodge themselves from the 70's on is no direct replacement, as wiring is different to our old vans. I wouldn't recommend this conversion, as the connector of the voltage regulator is completely different.

69,
It doesn't appear that VR106 is electronic or will work with a 60 amp alternator. Rock Auto does have a WVE 1v1067 regulator for a 60 amp alternator, but it doesn't say if it is electronic. Rock Auto doesn't seem to have an on-line way to ask a question, even though they only deal on-line.

Why shouldn't the electronic one work with a 60 amp alternator?

The electronic one just the same thing as a mechanical one: it switches the field coils inside the alternator on and off (and on and off, and on and off), just much faster.

Van crazy,
I sent you a private message re post #10.

Use this one, it replaces the stock points regulator when converting to electronic ignition. It will work with points ignition or if you have changed to electronic ignition.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dcc-p3690732?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKCAjwx9_4BRAHEiwApAt0zgRJnscoq0U0JWMuxKzixtDhRgLNU9eu8mUHlPUx-6ZTBJr9ebwffBoCiBwQAvD_BwE

Hi Dan,
The ad says 13.5V constant output. Is this what you use? What in? Is it a daily- monthly driver?
I have not changed to electronic ignition.
Rock Auto has a VR, part #1V1067, with the same 2 connectors as stock, for use with a 60 amp alternator. I've ordered it and will give that a try. It was $23.25 total, shipped.
Stay safe, eat well. Richard

This is in my 68  truck , 318 auto. Drive it 6 -8 times a month. This is the Mopar recommended regulator when you change to electronic ignition as that ignition needs a constant voltage for that ignition system. The stock regulator pig tails work with this, also used it on my 64 wagon for 10 plus years.