VintAGE-Vans

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BRINGING IT ALL TOGETHER.... A's, G's & E's


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Bassman
Magic Bus
donivan65
Das Boot
BlueSteel
9 posters

    Any idea what this box is?

    Seth G
    Seth G
    Vintage-Vans Listings Manager
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    Number of posts : 2086
    Location : Anacortes, WA
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    Registration date : 2013-04-24

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    Post by Seth G Sat Oct 24, 2015 6:55 pm

    If there is anyone out there that can't find of the Taurus fans locally in the yards and wants or needs one bad enough, they are fairly cheap new on amazon etc. ~$75-95
    donivan65
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Sun Oct 25, 2015 10:01 pm

    So Seth,,,,,is it anything like this fan I got off of some kind of Taurus,,,,,,I am pretty sure this draws 15 amps at high,,,,,,,,anything that draws much more than that will need a higher output alternator and rewiring,,,,,,,and thats more work and complications than I would want to do,,,,,,I am just trying to get suggestions from people,,,,,,,,like I said, you can have a top of the line Level 10 repair,,,,,,but I like to see some level 5 stuff too,,,,,,,,


    Any idea what this box is? - Page 2 Taurus10


    Any idea what this box is? - Page 2 Taurus11


    Any idea what this box is? - Page 2 Taurus12
    Seth G
    Seth G
    Vintage-Vans Listings Manager
    Vintage-Vans Listings Manager


    Number of posts : 2086
    Location : Anacortes, WA
    Age : 50
    Registration date : 2013-04-24

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    Post by Seth G Sun Oct 25, 2015 11:08 pm

    That one looks a little different than the one's I've seen posted by Vic and others, Looks a little longer but hard to tell. Looks like it has 3 wires, so it's probably 2 speed like the other one, the blades look the same, but that one has 1 less blade. That one may be off a 3.0 ltr V6 car, the others ones are off of 3.8 ltr V6 cars.

    How's it feel on high and low speeds? Probably beats the pants off the one you're using now, and 2 speeds! Did you happen to find/get the fan switch. I wouldn't trust a regular tyco to run one of these fans. Vic will probably chime in with info on controlling it. But I guess if you're just using mechanical timer wall switch your going to be fine. And while 15 amps seems like a lot, in the world of 12v it really isn't that much. It's the inrush spike that hammers and kills weaker switches. I work on boats and it isn't uncommon to be running 1,2 or even 3/0 wire to windlass motors or the like on 12v systems b/c of the amperage and the length of the run. That's where chassis grounds help in cars, most runs are less than 10ft total. I'm sure you know Don but for those that don't, you have to measure the wire length in both directions, ie positive length there and negative length back to ground.

    For reference, this is the one Vic refers to(Vic's picture and another one I found on the web):

    Any idea what this box is? - Page 2 013110

    Any idea what this box is? - Page 2 Taurus-fan-031207003-jpg

    It has 9 Blades and a roundish 3 blade female plug on the wires, the Dorman replacement part # is 620-101, according to Dorman the Ford # is F4DZ 8C607-CA(wouldn't hold that to be gospel though). According to Dorman the application list includes:

    1995 Ford Taurus V6 232 3.8L
    1995 Mercury Sable V6 232 3.8L
    1994 Ford Taurus V6 232 3.8L
    1994 Lincoln Continental
    1994 Mercury Sable V6 232 3.8L
    1993 Ford Taurus V6 232 3.8L
    1993 Lincoln Continental
    1993 Mercury Sable V6 232 3.8L
    1992 Ford Taurus V6 232 3.8L
    1992 Lincoln Continental
    1992 Mercury Sable V6 232 3.8L
    1991 Ford Taurus V6 232 3.8L
    1991 Lincoln Continental
    1991 Mercury Sable V6 232 3.8L
    1990 Ford Taurus V6 232 3.8L
    1990 Lincoln Continental
    1990 Mercury Sable V6 232 3.8L

    Here's a great chart I use at work when I need to size wire:

    http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/newsletter/images/DC_wire_selection_chartlg.jpg

    Any idea what this box is? - Page 2 DC_wire_selection_chartlg

    In the world of boats, any wire that goes through the engine comp/room has to be sized as if it were critical, 3% loss. Because of the heat.


    Last edited by Seth G on Sun Oct 25, 2015 11:26 pm; edited 2 times in total
    donivan65
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Sun Oct 25, 2015 11:22 pm

    If you seen that video and my Dons Day post from above on Oct 23,,,,,that fan blew over a lawn chair,,,,,and I was just running it from a little jumper battery,,,,,,I am just showing you what I found,,,,,,looks like the Corvette people are interested in Taurus fans,,,,,,I read about all those big draw fans,,,,,they aint much good for us,,,,,,its all about choices,,,,,,I just list choices,,,,,people can chose whats best for them,,,,,,
    Seth G
    Seth G
    Vintage-Vans Listings Manager
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    Number of posts : 2086
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    Post by Seth G Sun Oct 25, 2015 11:27 pm

    No but I'll check it lol.

    Yep I agree, it's all about time and money and what works for you.

    Yeah, Jeep guys to and others
    Vantasia
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    Post by Vantasia Mon Oct 26, 2015 6:06 am

    donivan65 wrote:Hmmm,,,,I am telling him that a good radiator is important,,,,,get his rodded out, which is when you take the tanks off and actually  run metal rods down  through the tubes to clean them out,,,get  one that has 3 rows of tubes or get an Aluminum one ,,,,3 choices,,,,,,,,there is nothing wrong with my spelling,,,,,,,,

    That was my point, he may not need a new alternator if the cooling issue is solved by having a working, improved radiator....I would do that before I messed with adding larger electric fans and the associated wiring issues....I  know what worked for me and adding a larger pusher fan did nothing, still ran hot....I use a floor fan under the van when I bring it into the garage to clear the gas smell, but that's all, my new re-cored, 2 X 45 row of 5/8" oversize tubes (probably equal to smaller 3-4 row cores, stock GM, and probably Fords too, are only 2 x 30 of 1/2") industrial truck copper core radiator keeps cool even in 90+ weather and traffic with a stock belt driven fan, IMHO its all in the radiator....I had it done at a custom heavy truck repair shop....guy makes them for Vettes and muscles cars too, I was lucky to find a local person who does this specialty work but ask around, there's one in every area.....
    donivan65
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Mon Oct 26, 2015 11:29 am

    and what is a working radiator,,,,,,how can you tell,,,,,,coolant has to flow through these small tubes and the tubes need to absorb the heat,,,,,,transfer the heat to the outside fins and then the airflow through the fins remove the heat,,,,,,,surely there is some kind of build up in these tubes that reduce the heat removal after all these years,,,,,,using radiator flush dont do much good,,,,,I think the only good test is to let a radiator shop do a flow test,,,,,,they can tell if there is a restriction in those tubes,,,,,,and then rod those tubes out to clean them,,,,, but best plan is,,,,,,,,put a better new radiator in to begin with and you can sit back and listen to all the overheating complaints here,,,,,,,


    Any idea what this box is? - Page 2 Dscn7115
    Seth G
    Seth G
    Vintage-Vans Listings Manager
    Vintage-Vans Listings Manager


    Number of posts : 2086
    Location : Anacortes, WA
    Age : 50
    Registration date : 2013-04-24

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    Post by Seth G Mon Oct 26, 2015 6:37 pm

    Oh yeah. These are `50 yr old vehicles. And some of them still have the same copper radiator, mine did. And up here in the pnw it still worked, not saying it's the original but it's definately very old and may be the original b/c it is copper and definitely oem, but there is no doubt it and the old 170 are totally calcified... and that crap is a really awesome insulator. We have low mineral content water here compared to back in Indiana where I grew up. That thing would weigh 50 #'s! And it's totally scaled every surface of the inside of the block to LOL! It's like any troubleshooting exercise, you start at the beginning, at the basics of the system. Good advise above

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