Gas Tank Sender Conversion

Based on Donivan's several posts and pictures of doing this using a different sender he found, I tinkered around with rebuilding an old rusted out gas tank sender using parts from one of the reasonably priced 30-ohm GM truck senders being sold on eBay  
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1963-1964-1965-1966-CHEVY-TRUCK-NEW-STAINLESS-FUEL-SENDING-UNITS-3-8-0-30-OHM-/171897159310?vxp=mtr

These units, made for Suburbans? are close but too long for a G-10 tank and use 3/8" tubing, but the sender and float are what we need.  I thought of shortening the tube but its stamped "stainless" and won't solder but could be done using a mig welder, but that is not something I have access nor the skill to do.  So I opted to adapt the sender unit to my old tube.  I used steel pop rivets for the fasteners and added a plate made from a scrap of duct metal to mount the sender on, its larger than the old unit.  I removed it by drilling out the spot welds that hold it to its tube.  I had to shorten the float arm as the new unit has a larger arc, but as long as it hits top and bottom when even with the G-van tank, should be fine.  I used a piece of brass tubing and some JB weld to splice the rod. I also used the epoxy to hold the screen on, the new one used a clear glue of some sort too.  I plan to install and test in the tank over the winter... but only after I put a wad of JB weld into a jar of gas for a few months just to make sure it doesn't dissolve, anyone know if its gas proof?, otherwise I will have to come up with a reliable way to splice the rod like a small collar with set screws. You also have to shorthen the ribbon wire connector to the top, easy to cut and I drilled and tapped a small 6/32 screw to hold it to the old binding post base, it is stainless and won't solder either. Some pictures.

New and old units side by side



If it works, this is a solution for under $40 for a working sender.  On a meter it reads 0.6 at E and 34 ohms at full. It also comes with a new gasket and lock ring for the tank, not a bad deal for the price.

JB weld now markets a "Quick set" epoxy- almost same looking pacakage-I saw @ walmart. Might be worthwhile to try that? also-If mig or tig welding - you MUST-find someone that can set Their equip. @ a very low voltage to get that pipe welded!! Maybe this is a bad suggestion for you ? but!!- try getting some tubing made of a ?? nylon? or some material like that ?? which couldbe expanded enough to go uver that stainless tube? epoxied to it or clamped with a stainless clamp ( fuel line type)? and shoved into the sock & eposied there also.?? I have also run several late model vehicles with out a sock/ strainer on the lines-due only to the costs of that expensive strainer & they all do fine as long as the tank is clean. I also do run a canister / replaceable fuel filter too!

My adaption of the Suburban Unit

,,,thats what I like to see,,,,,,,different ideas,,,,,,,,,give everybody choices to decide whats best for them depending on how much time, money, tools and skill they have,,,,,,,,,

Twinpilot001 wrote:JB weld now markets a "Quick set"  epoxy- almost same looking pacakage-I saw @ walmart. Might be  worthwhile to try that? also-If mig or tig welding - you MUST-find someone that can set Their equip. @ a very low voltage to get that pipe  welded!!  Maybe this is a bad  suggestion for you ? but!!- try getting some  tubing made of a ?? nylon? or some material like that ??  which couldbe  expanded enough to go uver that stainless tube?  epoxied to it or clamped with a stainless clamp ( fuel line type)? and  shoved into the sock & eposied  there also.?? I have also run several late model  vehicles with out a sock/ strainer on the lines-due only to the costs of that expensive strainer & they all do fine as long as the tank is clean. I also do run a canister / replaceable  fuel  filter too!

I thought of using compression fittings as Digz shows to shorten the original tube as another way to convert it to our tanks without welding but since I had an original tube to work with I figured try to put the sender on the old tube...the JB weld box says 'tanks' as a use, I assume they mean gas tanks, I may call them and see what their tech says...

Yes, JB Weld is gas-proof. I have used it many times to fix gas tank leaks over the years.

The best thing to do is to silver braze it with an oxy/acetalyne torch. Cut a section out of the tube, and use a short section of larger diameter tubing to make a collar that you will braze around where you butt the cut ends together. Match the ID of the larger tubing as close as you can to the OD of the sending unit tube.

I salvaged mine from a 77 Chevy van and brazzed it to the right length. Used the top of the old sender so it would mount in the tank. So I basically converted mine from a 5/16 tube sending unit to a 3/8 tube then ran 3/8 fuel line to the motor.

Loctite makes an Epoxy Weld bonding compound for metal . The overview of the product says it is resistant to most shop fluids such as water, diesel fuel, gasoline ,antifreeze, hydraulic fluid, motor oil and transmission fluid. Can be sanded ,machined ,drilled , or painted. Can be used as an adhesive for repairing, filling, and rebuilding all metal and common surfaces.

Doni, that's nasty! All good ideas. I mixed up a wad of JB Weld and am soaking it in a beaker of gas and so far no attack or softening. To shorten the arm I am going to thread the rod ends with a 6/32 die and use a coupling nut.

,,,I am just saying,,,,,,,,when you get a van,,,,,,,,,see what the tank looks like on the inside,,,,,,,thats the tank out of this van,,,,