Okay,,,,,,,,, been trying to get to this email for many days now and so will try to answer this as fast as I can today. This about the tenth try!!!
I have been advising how to do this for years now "the inboard frame mount is approximately 4" rear ward of where it needs to be"... For ten years now I have been listening to other people quote my information,,,,,,,,LOL
Your doghouse is an early and they didn't come out with the 240 option until 65,, LOL.. Ford making the doghouse specifically taller on purpose in 65 because of the taller 240 motor??
So,, your doghouse is 1 3/4" SHORTER in height than the late and also does not have a hump for added breathing room (WHICH YOU WILL NEED FOR A BIG SIX) as well as added bell housing clearance!!!!!!! SO, ,you need one,,,,,,, Talk, to Tim and purchase also the floor hump out the donor truck to match.
The 90 degree adapter is a no brainer,,, Ford put it in there to clear things,, get one from a big six Econoline or,, I see them all the time in the yards,,, also I have them in stock
NOTE: Mentioned for years now,,, REPLACE the o rings and use a copper washer instead of the factory fiber washer!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Use the stock 240 engine cross member (not the 170),, locate the inboard forward bolt hole on your existing frame mount and bolt it to the rear ward bolt hole on the 240 engine cross member. This will locate it correctly (same advise I give for the oil pan to clear the tie rod on the front axle on a V8 conversion),,,Its the same,,, LOL ALSO mentioned for years,, the frame is NOT 90 degrees!!!!!!! both sides are tapered,, and so here is what you need to do....
Weld in a 3/16th plate from the front of your existing frame mount forward to the forward edge of the 240 flange mount using plug welds. This piece from the floor and down to 1/4" ABOVE the edge of the frame. I do this on purpose to allow me to weld on the bottom flange and grab all three pieces with the bottom weld,, The idea is to install a flange for the cross member to bolt up to that is FLUSH AND PARALLEL with the bottom of the frame! and if you build it in place it can only be perfect!!! I then make the bottom flange with the forward hole matching the new cross member. Drill a simple larger diameter hole, you will weld a nut on the top anyways!!! BOLT it all up and now you will have a flange that is welded to the upper piece using that 1/4" gap to weld it all together as one.. Now you can simply bolt the new x mbr up and its flush with the bottom of the frame and not sticking down at an angle.... Mounting the outboard frame mount the same way if you make one, other wise I use and sell the OEM frame mounts from scrapped trucks....
Use my transmission cross member for ANY Ford transmission with an under transmission mount. The donut mount is not strong enough for a small six let alone a hopped up 300,, LOL... I designed the cross member to swivel and contract and expand and to also clear most any exhaust system... It allows you to SET the motor... Using both of them solves your issues!!! If you want a manual, use the 3 spd manual from a GENII,, its a short, solid output yoke and uses the under transmission mount ,,
If a C4 use the under transmission type mount, I have them in stock,, if a C6 use the short DRIVERS SIDE SPEEDO one,,, I have those in stock,, IF an AOD,, it will bolt up to my transmission cross member already,,,,
GAS PEDAL: DUMP the 170 pedal and use the 240 (duh) I have units that I install new bronze bearings into as well as I sell the 240 throttle cable.
I also make the automatic steering columns as well as a shift cable conversion as well as new shift indicator plates and other stuff... sure takes a while to down load all the pictures,, dratzzz
late for working on orders,,,,,, krud,,
vic