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BRINGING IT ALL TOGETHER.... A's, G's & E's


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    Brake Line replacement

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    67supervan


    Number of posts : 205
    Location : Denver
    Registration date : 2011-09-20

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    Post by 67supervan Sat Jun 28, 2014 8:22 pm

    Should I replace my old rigid brake lines with rigid lines or flexible? Are there any disadvantages over one vs the other as far as longevity goes?
    donivan65
    donivan65
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    Location : San Diego, California
    Registration date : 2008-05-12

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    Post by donivan65 Sat Jun 28, 2014 11:26 pm

    You surely don't want to driving around on 50 year old brake lines and hoses,,,,,these are the part numbers of armor wound Napa brake lines for changing the single line master cylinder to a dual.........they are made for you to bend them by hand,,,,,the important part is that you see  the length  and  part numbers.......If you are using a single line master cylinder, I would put in the dual line brake lines and just T them into the single port on the master cylinder then un Tee them and connect them into the 2 ports on a dual line master cylinder if you know whats good for you and switch over to a dual line master cylinder someday.....


    Brake Line replacement Brake_10
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Sat Jun 28, 2014 11:28 pm

    Brake Line replacement Brakel10
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    67supervan


    Number of posts : 205
    Location : Denver
    Registration date : 2011-09-20

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    Post by 67supervan Mon Jun 30, 2014 12:25 am

    Hi Don,
    You mention part number "302" but I've searched and searched napa's site and cannot find that item. Can you post a link to it?
    In order to replace the LR cylinder, I had to cut the brake line since the nut was rounded off years ago.
    donivan65
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Mon Jun 30, 2014 1:40 am

    302x3 is a connector for the brake lines,,,,,,,get #1 and #2 brake lines and put them on the rear end,,,,,then you will see how this game is played,,,,those brake lines come in 10"  increments,,,,so you make them work,,,,,,RR brake line fits good,,,,,LR is a little long so you make a little loop at the wheel cylinder,,,,,just put the lines in place and bend them to make them  look pretty,,,,if you are keeping the 1 line master cylinder, you will need some different fittings,,,,,you wont need #6,  7, 8 and 9,,,,you need to make 9 and 5 go into the master cylinder,,,,so go to Napa,  get two  302x3  connectors and get two  Tee's  with the same threads in it,,,,,get two 10" lines to fit the connectors,,,,,,the fitting going into the master cylinder is probably a Carquest EDE 258340, which is 3/8 fitting going into a 7/16 master cylinder,,,,,,so this should get you started,,,,,




    http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Result.aspx?Ntt%3d302x3%26Ntk%3dKeyword%26Nty%3d1%26Dn%3d0%26D%3d302x3%26Dk%3d1%26Dp%3d3%26N%3d0
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Mon Jun 30, 2014 1:43 am

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    67supervan


    Number of posts : 205
    Location : Denver
    Registration date : 2011-09-20

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    Post by 67supervan Tue Jul 01, 2014 12:23 am

    Hi Don,
    I'm going to napa tomorrow to order the parts to convert to the dual. I'd rather just replace my old tee joints since all else will be new. I believe the two tee's needed would be 7/16" at the bottom and 3/8" at the top of the tee. Do you know if napa offers that sized tee? I couldn't find that size on their site.
    Thanks,
    Brannon
    donivan65
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Tue Jul 01, 2014 12:41 am

    Those T's are special,,,,,,the one by the RF brake hose and the one on the rear end,,,,,,leave the rear end one alone,,,,you only need to move that other one to the grille IF you are putting in a dual master cylinder,,,,,,and use those #7 and 8  adapter pipes,,,,,,,but you are the 1st one to touch those T's in almost 50 years,,,,,they are still good,,,they are brass,,,,those old metal brake lines are junk,,,,,,but if you don't want to use that front T,,,,,,get a 3/8-24 T,,,,,and the 2 Carquest adapters for the dual master cylinder and you don't need the #7 and 8 adapter lines,,,,,,just try and keep everything 3/8-24 so it all fits together,,,,,,



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    67supervan


    Number of posts : 205
    Location : Denver
    Registration date : 2011-09-20

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    Post by 67supervan Tue Jul 01, 2014 10:10 am

    Hey Don, if I elect to use the little carquest adapter on the rear port instead of the 8" napa adapter, will there be enough length of line to make it all work, or do I need to buy some line to make up the difference?

    And, I've never seen you mention the 2nd gen Brake Pressure Differential Switch Block. Is that something I need?
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Tue Jul 01, 2014 10:25 am

    If you look at those pictures I sent you, you can see both ways,,,,,,you just make a shorter turn under the floor if you go right into the master cylinder using the Carquest adapter,,,,,,all those fittings and valves are choices to use depending on if you just replace the brake lines on a single line master cylinder, adding a dual line master cylinder or adding front disk brakes to your van,,,,,,,,,,the dual line master cylinder also has a light on the dash to tell you if there is a difference in the front and rear brake line pressure,,,,,like a leak,,,,,,,it is just a switch,,,,,,for the light,,,,,,,we don't use it,,,,but you could if you got one off a 1967-70 van...........the light comes on right before you crash,,,,,,,,,,
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    67supervan


    Number of posts : 205
    Location : Denver
    Registration date : 2011-09-20

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    Post by 67supervan Tue Jul 01, 2014 10:47 am

    Ok, I like the idea of less line length, less parts, and less money. Of course those are all marginal reductions.
    It doesn't sound like the high tech pressure switch is necessary.
    Thanks!
    donivan65
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Tue Jul 01, 2014 11:54 am

    That 1157 NAPA adapter line will go right into the 9/16 master cylinder port and the other end will go right into the 7/16 port of the OLD T that connects the 2 front 3/8 lines,,,,,,now if you use the Carquest adapter fitting,, you need a 10" line with 3/8 on the ends and another T with three 3/8 ports on it,,,,,,those two 60" lines coming from the rear brake hose will go right in the rear port if you use the Carquest fitting there,,,,,,,you just got to make stuff fit,,,,,
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    67supervan


    Number of posts : 205
    Location : Denver
    Registration date : 2011-09-20

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    Post by 67supervan Tue Jul 01, 2014 11:59 am

    Crystal clear, thanks!
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Tue Jul 01, 2014 12:19 pm

    ...I don't know why you are worried about money,,,,,,,when you get this done you can start charging $1600 for brake jobs, like the other shop by you,,,,,,,
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    67supervan


    Number of posts : 205
    Location : Denver
    Registration date : 2011-09-20

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    Post by 67supervan Tue Jul 01, 2014 1:30 pm

    Oh, the $2 I'm saving isn't a big deal. Napa and Carquest are 1/2 mile apart from each other. I'd be willing to do all four drums for $1600. It's only 2h labor and $200 in parts!
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Tue Jul 01, 2014 2:16 pm

    so you are telling us don't just drop your van off at a brake shop and tell them do whatever it takes,,,,until you see the bill..........
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    67supervan


    Number of posts : 205
    Location : Denver
    Registration date : 2011-09-20

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    Post by 67supervan Tue Jul 01, 2014 2:52 pm

    I'm usually pretty sharp about knowing in advance.
    I went to pick up a new cylinder from napa today and decided to open the box before paying. Good thing, it was a used part! Gotta wait another day now for them to get a real new one now.
    donivan65
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Tue Jul 01, 2014 4:01 pm

    It seems to me there is no breaks on brake work in Denver,,,,,,Oh,,,,,,I guess there are mile high prices there also.........that explains it.......
    panelmanrd
    panelmanrd


    Number of posts : 801
    Location : kcmo
    Age : 63
    Registration date : 2009-10-04

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    Post by panelmanrd Wed Jul 02, 2014 1:14 pm

    I have gotten more than one used part in a new box where I work,
    seems to be a popular trick to get new parts and not having to pay
    for them. their counter people are not doing their job, just rite up a
    credit or give money back when someone returns a supposed new part.
    it is highly frustrating.
    donivan65
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Wed Jul 02, 2014 4:38 pm

    Brannon sure has learned a lot since he decided his brakes needed working on,,,,,,,
    Wwildman
    Wwildman


    Number of posts : 12
    Location : Garner, North Carolina
    Registration date : 2014-07-01

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    Post by Wwildman Fri Jul 04, 2014 10:31 pm

    When it comes to steel brake lines I usually buy a spool of Nicop (nickle copper ) brake line and get all the line nuts I need for the Job. When it comes to the brake hoses I go to east coast gear they will make braided stainless DOT certified while I wait for the added cost I get better then factory hoses and all of my steel lines are made with out any unions.
    I forgot to mention I have a hydraulic flaring tool by blue point yes I spent 500 on it but I use it quite a lot
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    67supervan


    Number of posts : 205
    Location : Denver
    Registration date : 2011-09-20

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    Post by 67supervan Sat Aug 09, 2014 7:18 pm

    Hey Don, thanks for all the part numbers. The new dual master cylinder and new lines are in place. Neither of the two front tees from my 66 would work, so I sourced a new one on ebay for $6. Not only could I not have done this without your valuable input, but I would not have done it without your prodding and encouragement. I've never done any mechanic work before. Thanks again!
    donivan65
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Sat Aug 09, 2014 10:06 pm

    The 1966 Chevy Van uses a different size T fitting, so you need to buy another one,,,,the Napa brake lines are steel wound so you can bend them by hand to whatever shape you need,,,it isnt even worth my time to cut and flare lines for what they cost,,,,,,we use Steel braided hoses on our vans,,,,


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