by So next test is put it all together, put a voltmeter or test light on the big terminal with the starter cable on it and see if there is voltage there,,,,,,do this with the key off , the key on,,,,,then start the van and turn it off,,,,and see if any voltage shows up at the starter cable. You got 3 possibilities,,,,,a short in the wiring going to the I terminal or S terminal or the relay sticks,,,,, take the small wires off the relay and pull a battery cable off and see if you see sparks or hear noise when you touch it back to the battery post. Another test is pull a cable off,,,,put the test light between the cable and battery post and see if the test light comes on,,,,,,if it does, that means something is on,,,,,then go pull off wires until you find one that causes the test light to go out.
4 posters
fixing an alternator
donivan65- Governor
- Number of posts : 12220
Location : San Diego, California
Registration date : 2008-05-12
Guest- Guest
yup.. i did the test light between the cable and the battery post and there is a light.... it fades right away, i take the test light away for a few secs put it back on and there it is.... i disconected the radio and that little light went away....
i still need to check on the rest of the wires...
thanks so much for your help and patience...
i still need to check on the rest of the wires...
thanks so much for your help and patience...
donivan65- Governor
- Number of posts : 12220
Location : San Diego, California
Registration date : 2008-05-12
We will get it right,,,, it just takes time to dial it in,,,,,we need to be on the same page,,,,,,,but I would disconnect the wire on the positive side of the coil that goes to the starter relay and see how the van likes that,,,,,,
Guest- Guest
she didnt like it... the engine turns but it wont run with that "+" disconected
donivan65- Governor
- Number of posts : 12220
Location : San Diego, California
Registration date : 2008-05-12
There should be 2 wires connected to the positive side of the coil,,,,,but the the boost from the relay could be connected to the ignition wire somewhere in the line , so that both the ignition run wire and the boost wire only show up at the coil as 1 wire. So that test won't work. Next way is to find which wire runs the relay and disconnect the other one. And lets get back to the original problem,,,,,,does the battery go dead by itself??? does it sound like the starter is up to something when the van is just sitting there? Does the starter not want to turn fast enough when you try it? Lets start at the beginning,,,,,,,,,
Guest- Guest
the battery only drained when i was trying to start the van two or three tries and it was gone and thats when the starter was heavy... but nope.. there is nothing going on with the starter when the van is just sitting..
now the only thing is that when i start the van and the engine does not run the starter makes a whirring noise for a couple of seconds.. like something inside is spinning..
now the only thing is that when i start the van and the engine does not run the starter makes a whirring noise for a couple of seconds.. like something inside is spinning..
donivan65- Governor
- Number of posts : 12220
Location : San Diego, California
Registration date : 2008-05-12
Ok, lets deal with that,,,,,,as soon as it starts, pull the little wires off the relay and see if the starter stops,,,,,,,or start it without one of those little wires on the relay,,,,,And check for a ballast resistor,,,,,hook a voltmeter on the positive side of the coil and start the engine see what the voltage is,,,,,it will be under 12 if there is a resistor, over 12 if there is no resistor in the line......
Digz- Number of posts : 3794
Location : United States Six Lakes MI
Registration date : 2008-05-17
Back to the alternator, Im going to say right now I know little about ford alternators, On a mid 80's GM tho that spark you were getting would be the field regenerating in the Alt, also there can be an internal short in a diode that would allow it to charge when running but drain at shut off, just tossing this out there.
Guest- Guest
hey.. im back.. that fusible link is an interesting post!!!
well back to my problem.. i noticed that when i start the van and the battery dies i wait for five minutes and try again. there will be juice in the battery..
last time i had to put some engine starter fluid and the thing started to run...
also i have another issue with my carb..
im going to post a new
well back to my problem.. i noticed that when i start the van and the battery dies i wait for five minutes and try again. there will be juice in the battery..
last time i had to put some engine starter fluid and the thing started to run...
also i have another issue with my carb..
im going to post a new
donivan65- Governor
- Number of posts : 12220
Location : San Diego, California
Registration date : 2008-05-12
Bring it on!!!!! So lets dial in these problems,,,,,,lets go to [ START THE VAN, BATTERY DIES] ,,,, now what is happening? does the starter crank the engine OK? Does the engine start and run? Does it just die ? Then is everything dead? do you have a voltmeter? you need to take some voltage readings to see where the problem or problems are.
Guest- Guest
i need to get a voltmeter..
the other problem is with the carb..
i got a ford model 1100 from a 65 falcon car..
it works good, fits nice.. i took it home gave it a good wash and installed it in the van.. but when i get the engine to run, the carb sticks on high idle..
i took it off.. gave it a good clean opened up everything looks fine.. but the throtle plate does not close all the way when the engine is running.. when i turn the engine off it closes nice.. at least the throtle lever goes all the way down.. the linkeages are all free and oiled up..
i was thinking of putting a spring to bring it back to closed position,, but i want to ask first..
maybe its not the right carb for my van...
the other problem is with the carb..
i got a ford model 1100 from a 65 falcon car..
it works good, fits nice.. i took it home gave it a good wash and installed it in the van.. but when i get the engine to run, the carb sticks on high idle..
i took it off.. gave it a good clean opened up everything looks fine.. but the throtle plate does not close all the way when the engine is running.. when i turn the engine off it closes nice.. at least the throtle lever goes all the way down.. the linkeages are all free and oiled up..
i was thinking of putting a spring to bring it back to closed position,, but i want to ask first..
maybe its not the right carb for my van...
donivan65- Governor
- Number of posts : 12220
Location : San Diego, California
Registration date : 2008-05-12
So can you slow the engine down when it is idling fast by working the linkage at the carb with your hand? disconnect the linkage on the carb and try this also,,,,,,,, Is this a manual choke carb?
Guest- Guest
yup.. i just pull the gas pedal up and it slows down also by pushing the lever with my finger.. and if i disconnect it from the throttle lever it also gets stuck.. and yeah its a manual choke carb... but the adjusting screw is all the way down for now..
donivan65- Governor
- Number of posts : 12220
Location : San Diego, California
Registration date : 2008-05-12
I guess as the years go on, you could have 3 springs on the linkage to pull it back down to idle. But you really need a spring on the linkage at the carb so when your linkage falls off, the carb does not go wide open on you. So start with a spring that keeps the carb pulled down to idle.
sasktrini- Number of posts : 2067
Location : Saskatoon, SK, Canada
Registration date : 2008-05-20
I think you can just bend the linkage to make sure you get full range with the throttle plate... I just ordered a book from Classic Inlines, and thiss reanks in the top ten free or cheap performance enhancements!
Guest- Guest
as soon as it starts, pull the little wires off the relay and see if the starter stops
well i took each individually and the engine did not died, took them both at the same time and the engine did not died..
... and when tried to start it with out the "s" terminal there was nothing.. not even a clicking sound this time..
...and when tried to start it with out the "I" terminal it runned...
im heading to get a voltmeter just now..
well i took each individually and the engine did not died, took them both at the same time and the engine did not died..
... and when tried to start it with out the "s" terminal there was nothing.. not even a clicking sound this time..
...and when tried to start it with out the "I" terminal it runned...
im heading to get a voltmeter just now..
Guest- Guest
hook a voltmeter on the positive side of the coil and start the engine see what the voltage is,,,,,it will be under 12 if there is a resistor, over 12 if there is no resistor in the line......
it dances between 8.30 to 8.77 when the engine is running..
another thing i noticed hahaha.. i got a little shock.. when i touched the engine lid to open up, just a small very small shock..
it dances between 8.30 to 8.77 when the engine is running..
another thing i noticed hahaha.. i got a little shock.. when i touched the engine lid to open up, just a small very small shock..
donivan65- Governor
- Number of posts : 12220
Location : San Diego, California
Registration date : 2008-05-12
I would make sure the negative battery cable is connected to the engine and another wire is going to the van body. I would disconnect the voltage regular or alternator to see if the shock goes away. Are any of the spark plug wires touching the doghouse? Did you have the voltmeter hooked up at the time? So you got less than 12 volts at the positive side of the coil when the engine is running,,,,so you got a ballast resistor in the system. And what is the voltage at the battery when it is running?
Guest- Guest
yeah. the ground is all there.. the spark plug wires are touching the doghouse yes.. do i need to get them away from there?
another question to the salad..
i found a pair of VDO gauges from an audi or a vw.. one is a volt and the other is a temperature in Cels.... is it a good idea to connect these? i just have an idiot light on the dash and i believe the original temp gauge is busted as the gas metering one.. whats a good option for gas gauge?.. are these any good options?
or should i just leave them back?
another question to the salad..
i found a pair of VDO gauges from an audi or a vw.. one is a volt and the other is a temperature in Cels.... is it a good idea to connect these? i just have an idiot light on the dash and i believe the original temp gauge is busted as the gas metering one.. whats a good option for gas gauge?.. are these any good options?
or should i just leave them back?
donivan65- Governor
- Number of posts : 12220
Location : San Diego, California
Registration date : 2008-05-12
The spark plug wires are probably worn out,,,,,if the gaps on the spark plugs are too wide, the spark will also jump out the wires rather than go all the way down to the wide gap on the spark plugs. A temp gauge and voltmeter are the best gauges to have. Voltmeters are all the same,,,,they tell you what the charging system is doing. But you need a matching sending unit for a temp gauge to work. AND,,,,,,if you say the Gas and the Temp gauge don't work?????? Those are related,,,,,they are 6 volt gauges and use a special dash current limiter to power them up,,,,,so break out that voltmeter,,,,,,see if they are getting power or use a test light on the back of them,,,,the test light should blink on the terminals on the back of the gauge,,,,if its solid or no light,,,,,the limiter is no good,,,,,,
Guest- Guest
hey, i got concerned with the temperature postings on other forums that now im back with this question, haha. just in time for summer. the gauges on my van do not work, but because one has no needle, the other one has a hole behind it, so they're not there anymore, what would be a good replacement for the temperature gauge.
thanks.
thanks.
Guest- Guest
and now that im here also one that will work for the gasoline.
