Dons day,,,,,,,

If it shows that the gas flow stops while driving down the road, then that could be a type of vapor lock if the cap is wrong or bad,,,,,,,so that goes on the list,,,,,,,,that would turn out to be a VERY expensive gas cap................

Cheby tanks not vented? That does some like a possible culprit, if the sock and filter have been ruled out.

The tank is vented right back up to below the cap,,,,,we run vented caps,,,but they are getting  hard to find,,,,,new ones are sealed,,,,,,my gas was running out of my cap at Jackes,,,,,,she has a real steep driveway,,,,,,I had to move it to a flat spot when I was there,,,,,,

I remember when I was a kid, my dad took us over Donner Pass in a rented motorhome and it died when we got near the top. I remember someone stopped to help and when he unscrewed the gas cap I could hear the air suck in.
It's a good thing those brain cells made it through the 80's...

,,,thats the good thing about this place,,,,,,we share thoughts and ideas,,,,,,sooner or later, someone will be having the same problem and find some help here,,,,,,,,,

So,,,,,,how lucky can a guy get,,,,,,,,two 1st Gen Chevys with a big V8 stuck in them,,,,,,,I go see Zack,,,,,,he added on to the 1st Gen doghouse,,,,,,we dont know what engine is in there,,,,,the balancer has 2 timing grooves cut into it,,,,,,dont know which one is right,,,,,,,says it runs hot,,,,,,I think there is an air pocket in that upper hose which is higher than the radiator,,,,,,maybe a smaller fan and lowering the radiator will help,,,,,,,Holley carb  RPM drops a lot when put into Drive,,,,,,,

,,,,and then I stop by Jackes on my way home,,,,,I left her my test equipment yesterday for her to use,,,,,,,,







,,,,,,HOWEVER,,,,,

she tells me that her idea of pouring gas down the carb to keep it running kinda sorta BACKFIRED on her,,,,,there does seem to be soot on the roof and she has some sort of tan now,,,,,,,,so I hook up the clear line and pull the coil wire,,,,,,hey,,,there is gas,,,,,but it is BLACK,,,,,,it runs clear into a bucket,,,,,,probably from  that old long rubber hose from the fuel pump to the carb,,,,,it still wont start,,,,coil is red hot,,,,,there aint no ballast resistor in the line,,,,,,,points are burnt,,,,so she can get new points, condenser, ballast resistor and fuel hose,,,,,just to get it running again to finish the rest of the tests,,,,,,I surely think that fuel filter sitting right next to a 500 degree exhaust manifold aint helping things,,,,,,,but she showed me she put on new grab handles above the doors today,,,,,,,,

donivan65 wrote:,,,,and then I stop by Jackes on my way home,,,,,I left her my test equipment yesterday for her to use,,,,,,,,









,,,,,,HOWEVER,,,,,

she tells me that her idea of pouring gas down the carb to keep it running kinda sorta BACKFIRED on her,,,,,there does seem to be soot on the roof and she has some sort of tan now,,,,,,,,so I hook up the clear line and pull the coil wire,,,,,,hey,,,there is gas,,,,,but it is BLACK,,,,,,it runs clear into a bucket,,,,,,probably from  that old long rubber hose from the fuel pump to the carb,,,,,it still wont start,,,,coil is red hot,,,,,there aint no ballast resistor in the line,,,,,,,points are burnt,,,,so she can get new points, condenser, ballast resistor and fuel hose,,,,,just to get it running again to finish the rest of the tests,,,,,,I surely think that fuel filter sitting right next to a 500 degree exhaust manifold aint helping things,,,,,,,but she showed me she put on new grab handles above the doors today,,,,,,,,

Looks like she could use some door checks too!

Well look who is here,,,,,,,,Zack and Jacke,,,,,,,V  and  8    

so I stopped by Jackes place to see if she left me points, condenser, fuel line and ballast resistor,,,,,the points and condenser gets it running again,,,,,,,I pull the steering wheel off,,,,,,the upper bearing has popped out because that fake steering wheel aint holding the bearing down like it should,,,,,,,I left her a new switch for her to put in,,,,,,she needs to shim up that wheel or put the correct stock one back on,,,,,,there is no boost wire coming from the starter solenoid,,,,the voltmeter on the dash reads 20 volts,,,,,she can put the ballast resistor on...add some  boost voltage wiring,,,,,replace my clear fuel line with rubber,,,,and road test it,,,,,,there is no timing marks on the timing cover,,,,just a notch on the balancer,,,,,,,Zack came over for some parts for his van,,,,,,and there they are,,,,the V8 twins,,,,,,,

You guys have way too much fun out there...I think what I need is a shot of that Sunshine to brighten up my day!!! The weather forecasters here are predicting more SNOW on Friday...this is SUPPOSED to be SPRING! Keep on keeping on with those vans out there!

donivan65 wrote:so I stopped by Jackes place to see if she left me points, condenser, fuel line and ballast resistor,,,,,the points and condenser gets it running again,,,,,,,I pull the steering wheel off,,,,,,the upper bearing has popped out because that fake steering wheel aint holding the bearing down like it should,,,,,,,I left her a new switch for her to put in,,,,,,she needs to shim up that wheel or put the correct stock one back on,,,,,,there is no boost wire coming from the starter solenoid,,,,the voltmeter on the dash reads 20 volts,,,,,she can put the ballast resistor on...add some  boost voltage wiring,,,,,replace my clear fuel line with rubber,,,,and road test it,,,,,,there is no timing marks on the timing cover,,,,just a notch on the balancer,,,,,,,Zack came over for some parts for his van,,,,,,and there they are,,,,the V8 twins,,,,,,,

Don, did you tell her about removing the plugs from the TS wires so they fit through the little slot without cutting off the connector? Hate for you to return and find she cut and spliced the wires.....my after market ( Moon) Wheel works fine to hold the switch in place as long as you have the correct adapter for it. She may not have the right one for GM, Grant and Moon sell the right one for our columns....one thing I found on those replacement switches is that the replacement switch levers are a bit to wide to seat properly in the plastic saddle, had to file a fit off the sides for it to fit, and then the small screw strips easily out of the plastic, had to re-tap the hole for a larger screw....its a learning process....

I told her about taking the wires out of the connector to slip them down through the column,,,,,,,but it wont really matter,,,,,,they cut off the other connectors under the dash,,,,,I think there is a painless wiring loom on it,,,,,,so there are no stock terminals on it anymore,,,,,,there surely aint no horn wire anywhere,,,,,lots of wires going nowhere,,,,,that little aftermarket steering wheel is too hard for her to turn,,,,she got a stock one for it,,,,,,,once she does some of these fixes I showed her,,,,she can take it for a ride and see if it still quits on the road,,,,,,they both got vans that someone dropped V8's into,,,,,and lots of modifications were done,,,,,,now trying to figure out what and why they did them and how to make it right ,,,,,,is interesting,,,,,,,,and a pain,,,,,,,,,,,

Yeah, my Moon is 15-1/2" diameter and it can be a bit hard to turn wehn parking, etc, driving straight OK...if anyone can help them out, its you!

Jacke, I'll gladly help you get your stock turn signal switch, steering wheel, and horn working as GM intended! I went through all of that with mine.

But first, here's some homework for you. Read all my documentation on getting the new turn signal switch installed:

https://vintage-vans.forumotion.com/t31630-turn-signal-lever-for-1st-gen

AND, I recently took most of this apart again to come up with a way to tighten up the whole assembly because my steering wheel and shaft was moving around a little. I found a way to make it better than GM intended! I'll post photos of that endeavor.

VANagain wrote:Jacke, I'll gladly help you get your stock turn signal switch, steering wheel, and horn working as GM intended! I went through all of that with mine.

But first, here's some homework for you. Read all my documentation on getting the new turn signal switch installed:

https://vintage-vans.forumotion.com/t31630-turn-signal-lever-for-1st-gen

AND, I recently took most of this apart again to come up with a way to tighten up the whole assembly because my steering wheel and shaft was moving around a little. I found a way to make it better than GM intended! I'll post photos of that endeavor.

Okay, thanks very much. I am finishing up the restoration of the wheel this Saturday. I have it ready to start the process. Just waiting for some stuff "guts' I ordered to complete the install

I started to read the entire homework reading list... very good information. I still want your help LOL

Let me know if Sunday or another day might work in your schedule.

So,,,,,,last years road trip, as I left Wideloads place in Kentucky, my right rear outside dual tire on my motorhome blows out and wrecks the fender flare,,,,,,,,I make up another out of stucco mesh and Jacke fiberglasses it for me,,,,,,,,,

Looks like Jacke's got some fiberglass skills!! Nice job Jacke!!!

,,,,and then I decide to change the rear main seal and do some cleaning while I am at it,,,,,,,,,I end up 1 pan bolt short,,,,,,,and then I find it,,,,,,,aint no way I am going to pull the pan off again and dont want it bouncing around in there,,,,,,,,so how did I get that bolt out of my oil pan?

So you snaked it out of the fuel pump hole with a piece of cable and a coat hanger wire all while laying on your back under the van??? amazin! you must be a great fisherman!  Don, you deserve a tall cold one after that, must have been nerve rackin, that's a sleep buster for sure!  I stripped one of the holes out on an old flathead once and freaked out...luckily, I was able to re-drill and bottom tap the hole to a larger size bolt to repair it and it held....on my back....

you got it right,,,,,,,the bolt was too big to come out the oil drain plug hole,,,,,I 1st used a connector to hold the bolt while I tried to grind the head down reaching in there with a Dremel tool, but I gave up because I did not want to wreck the plug threads and leave the grit and grindings in the pan to get sucked up into the oil pump,,,,,,a coat hanger did not work,,,,I couldnt get it down through the fuel pump hole, past the cam and oil pick up screen into the pan where I could tie it to the wire that I tied to the bolt,,,,,,but,,,,,,,an old parking brake cable with the ball on the end, slid its way right down there and I fished it, and the wire I tied to the bolt, out with a coat hanger and tied them together, along with a back up wire, and they all  got pulled into the pan and up and out the fuel pump opening,,,,,,,and I was happy,,,,,,,,

That's what I would call 'engine'uity!

WOW! I guess I would've just taken the pan back off kicking myself the whole time. Kudos!!!

I surely did not want to pull that pan and buy a new gasket set,,,,,,,I think sticking a strong magnet on the bottom of the pan to hold that bolt in place or even just let it bang around in there was next on my list if I did not make some progress in getting something to show up near that drain hole,,,,,

Another possibility might have been to use the Dremel or a grinder with a thin cutting wheel to cut open the bottom of the pan in a small tab just big enough to pry down and let the bolt out and then bang it back into place and weld the seams back up, messy but??  I once did something similar on a VW engine when the carb idle mix screw fell down under the top air shield and wedged itself between the cylinder cooling fins.  Magnets were no good since it was brass. Cutting an opening to get it back was sure easier than dropping and disassembling the whole engine. After the repair and some paint, you wouldn't even know what happened....