shipping a rear end

I totally agree with Vic on replacing all of the old parts with new ones! Brakes are a very important component skimping on maybe a hundred dollar's worth of part's could cost you thousands in the end!

Thnx,,,  forgot to also mention new axle seals in the housing,,,,, part numbers
Vic



ECONOLINE 9” REAR AXLE PARTS
 
 
 
DRUM     (10 x 2 ½”)             CENTRIC   122.65007  (premium)
                                                CENTRIC    123.65007 (standard)     
HDW KIT                           
                       
BRAKE SHOES                     CENTRIC    110.01690 (premium)     
                                                CENTRIC    111.01690 (standard)
 
WHEEL CYLINDER             CENTRIC    134.64010 (right) (premium)
                                                CENTRIC     134.64010 (left)  (premium)
                                                 CENTRIC    135 turns the above into (standard)
 
           
AXLE SEAL                            NATIONAL/FEDERAL MOGUL
                                                  #9568
 
AXLE BEAING                       SKF #RW207-CCRA

Ok, I cant move a bone in my body but I finaly got both sides off. The brake lines and rubber brake line on the 7 1/2 are all new. Thats why I was asking if the vent bolt that holds the junction block to the  rear end and the fittings on the brake lines are the same on both rears. Just trying to have everything I need before I start the swap, hate running to the parts store in the middle of a job. Thanks again for every one help. This is a great site with great people.

I would guess that the brake lines may be a little long as the backing plates on the 9" are deeper because of the wider shoes. Probably not long enough that you couldn't just simply use up an inch or so and make them work, if they are new then why not. The rubber brake hose itself will be the same for that particular block. Some of the later brake rear brake lines come with the block and some that can be screwed in place. Regardless you can use either one. 
 Hope the part numbers make it easier for you,,,
Vic..... congrats on getting them off,,,,  NOW to tackle the axles,,,>LOL..

Yes, the part numbers helped alot. Fixing to order everything I need, then take a well needed week vacation. Thanks again, Richard.

And since we are now talking about brakes...

Replace the brake fluid every year!   

Unlike modern vehicles, our brake system is designed to suck water into the brake fluid.  This makes the brakes soft, so we need to replace all of the old fluid with new stuff at least once a year.

AND since so,,,, brake fluid IS a magnet for water vapor,, so once the jar has been opened its done. Also, on both our early master cylinder and the infamous 67,,, they  BOTH allow water into the master cylinder!!!!!!!!!!
  The early has a vent in the top of the cap and when you splash down the high way or road ways, the water gets on the top and INTO the system,, the 67 cap although "slightly" harder also has two vent slits on the top of it specifically there to allow the bellows to breath. The problem is that there is no way to directly put enough force down wards on the sealing gasket around the bolt AREA. SO,,, everyone that I get for rebuild needs sleeving because the water sits around the bolt area and eventually gets into the master cylinder.. SO,, the reason why I developed the 67 master cylinder remote reservoir conversion. It will NOT allow any water into the master cylinder even if you run it under water...  water KILLS BRAKES. I tried the old way for pictures and it wont work again?????
Vic

Ok, after 3 weeks finaly finished the 9''swap (things take longer when your old and its 100+ outside) new brakes ,bearings, fluid ect. Took it around the block and did my first burnout, felt real good with just a stock 302-c4. Thanks again for everyones help and advice.