shipping a rear end

Has anyone shipped a rear end, If so how much and what company. Would greyhound do it? Having trouble finding a 9'' rear near Dallas and dont have anything to pick it up with as my 62 isnt quite highway ready yet. Any ideas? Thanks.

A buddy of mine uses www.uship.com to ship large items.

I have found Greyhound hungry for freight business. Very surprised as to the size of things that I have seen them shipping items. By far one of the least expensive that I know of. Biggest problem that I know of is not having enough terminals close enough for everyone. Cant hurt to try.
Vic

So, how much do you want for one of your rear ends and is there a greyhound near you. I read in another post you are hurt so this might not be an option.


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Old Skool wrote:
I have found Greyhound hungry for freight business. Very surprised as to the size of things that I have seen them shipping items. By far one of the least expensive that I know of. Biggest problem that I know of is not having enough terminals close enough for everyone. Cant hurt to try.
Vic

Its been a LONG road to recovery and can finally lift my left arm,,, neck is still sore and stuck. However,, I have no choice other than to continue with the Econolines and actually getting very, very busy. Just sold a truck to Galpin Ford and I am heavily involved also with them building a repro Back UP Pickup,, super cool, videos and every thing.
I sell the rear ends for $500 drum to drum,,, guaranteed to no be trashed, but sold as is. I do supply newly sand blasted, painted and newly turned drums with them. The turned drums well within specs. Not a great big selection of gearing, but pick up third members as often as I see them in the 3:00,3:25, and 3:50's,,, Grey hound is two miles up the road and no problem there at all....
If interested,,, please let me know what they say on your end.
Vic..

vlafountaine@socal.rr.com

I loved the backup pickup, what a cool project. 5oo seems fair to me seeing how hard they are to find here. I found a guy 5 hours away that says he has one but he hasn't said what year yet so I'm not sure it really is a early. Let me see what my greyhound says and If I dont find one closer I'll let you know. Thanks, Richard.

Well I should be old enough to know better. I bought the 9'' from the guy 5 hrs away and had it shipped. It Is an econo rear but rusted solid ,cant get the drums off, axles wont turn, ect. I should have spent the extra 200 and bought yours, Vic. How screwed am I here ? I got the drums loose with heat but they are stuck at the top. Knocked the pins off the backing plate and unbolted the wheel cyl. still wont come off. Even if I get them loose will I be able to get my axles out with basic hand tools and a propane torch? Help ! Thats what I get tyring to save a few bucks. the tag reads wcr-r1    350  6ad  782. Anyone know what year it is?

is that an 8" rear end?? if so I have some here cheap too - yet shipping?

SprayWD40 all inside the back of the drums and the drums will come off. I had to give my drums a bath in it when I put new shoes on

I will add from experiences - a small hand held propane torch =WILL NOT WORK! Need a regular  acceteline type torch-gets hot enough!!

If I get the drums off will I be able to get the axle out of the housing with the torch. Nothing moves on this thing.

The brake shoes are probaly froze to the drums. It will probaly turn once you get the drums off. Take the rear cover off of it to and check to see if it has gear oil in it.

A Ford 9" has no rear cover. There is a plug on the rear you can remove and stick your finger in. You cannot take the gears our without the axles out.

I sent as long reply and dont see it?  anyways, neither an 8" or a 9" have a rear cover, the easiest way to tell is the front bolts on it. On the lower passengers side there is one that you cannot get off without a wrench period, if so, its an 8"er,,,
  I cut or grind off the rivet head for the brake retainer pin, you can see it from the back of the drum, that way it will release the bottom of the brake shoes so they can come out from the backing plate with the drum after you heat the center and pop them loose of course. Then you should be able to get inside enough to also cut the top of the shoes so that part also comes away with the drum,, the shoes are rusted and frozen outwards and will not release, so kill em and pull them out with the drum all at once.
 
 Regards to the axle bearings, they probably will be rusted in place also, so a trick I use at the bone yards, is to take a bolt and a nut and reverse it so that when tightening the nut it pushes against the axle flange, forcing the axle out. At home I have a special puller that attatches to the studs with a great big mf slide hammer to help knock them out. Some times also at the yard, I carry a big sledge, that has a big anvil/angle on one side, and slam it in between the wheel cylinder and the flange, helping to force the axle out of the housing.
  The old trick of using a small propane torch of course in order to expand the drum away from the hub and you can hear it POP as it comes loose. The hub is designed to be tight as that is what supports the drum, same like the front drums being swedged in place as a one piece unit, which of course cant be done with a rear drum...
Here are a few links posted a few times before,, but regardless excellent info on 8" and 9" rear axles..
Vic
http://www.kevinstang.com/Ninecase.htm

I will also add,,, LOL,,,  that I have NOT had one yet that a propane torch hasn't popped the drum yet, and I do have a rose bud right next to it,, LOL...
The rose bud will heat anything,,,
Vic

What are you using to cut the top of the brake pad? After 5 hrs on one side I'm about ready to give up. I have the drum loose execpt at the top , but only have about 1'' clearence so far. Thanks.

Can you get in there with a torch,,,  sounds like you are on the way,, OR,, can you get at the lower adjustment screw and cut it,,,,  a torch would help greatly,,, its been a while since I had to do one,, krud,,
vic

No torch, no compressor, just basic hand tools. I might be able to get to the adjuster, dont know if a chisel or hacksaw will cut it. I already broke the drum, is it still usable ? Thanks.

 
https://2img.net/h/i626.photobucket.com/albums/tt341/chainsaw_album/drum001_zps5cb5cc42.jpg

My drums were both held by the pads and adjuster was seized. I just used a couple of pri-bars in behind the drum and kept at it for about half hour untill all the brake parts let go and came flying out. OH YEA!!!...watch for flying parts...lol. I had to chase down a couple of springs. But all was usable afterwards. Also I would pri foward against the drum so I wouldn't bend up the backing plate.

Alright, after about 6 hours I got one side off and the axle on that side spins ! Thanks for everyone's advice.

Good to hear! I would not use the drum that you broke. Just take your time and go at it slowly and you will get the other side off.

"WCR" means it is a Ford 9" removable carrier rear axle.
"-R" means it was on the 1966-1967 Ford Econolines (tag code 11).  
The O.D. on the ring gear is 8 3/4" but the axle could hold the 9" gears.
"1" after the "-R" means something changed from the ones that did not have the "1"
"350" indicates a 3.50:1 gear ratio.  
"6AD" is the date it was built  (6=year, A=month, D=week) Thus, built in the 4th week in January of 1966.
"782" is the plant where it was built.
The axle is rated at 3,050 pounds
28-spline axle shafts
small axle bearings


Some of that info is here
http://www.econolineid.com/axle.php?s=code

Thanks for the decoding. Just quit for the night trying to get the other side off. Will  the brake lines and junction box from the 7 1/2'' rear bolt to the 9'' rear ? The rubber line was cut on the 9'' when they removed. Thanks .

+1 for a rosebud tip! Separates anything from anything!

There are two rubber lines at the junction block, the top one is simply a breather hose for the axle, the other is a brake line. Dont be cheap at this point,, put a new brake line on. The hard lines can be replaced very easily if you know how to use a flaring tool for the brake lines which you can get a the auto parts store. They come in over size and you bend and flare to fit,,, DONT SCRIMP ON THEM...NEW WHEEL CYLINDERS ALSO!!!!!!!! BE SMART...
vIC