Help ID hoses on a '65 240ci

I just got this truck awhile back and I'm trying to determine where these two hoses belong. They might just hook together, but the one rubber hose is way long. One comes out of the top front of the carb and the other starts as a metal pipe down near the fuel pump and comes around the front of the engine.

Probably as simple as trimming the long hose to fit and hook them together, but thought I would check first. I can't find a hose routing diagram in my shop manual:

Just a stupid guess, but one looks like a discarded original fuel supply from the pump to Carb. The other I would guess is maybe for the vacuum advance on the distributor... I don't have a 240, but the technology of the times is all roughly the same. Hope I could help.

Both appear to be fuel lines.
Both appear to be hacked OE or replacement.
Ford liked to put a fuel filter over the exhaust manifold and next to the dist. on the stock motors. Not good.
Search for pictures of restored Mustang engines for the right line from the pump to the carb inlet.
You can probably even buy a reproduction.

r u saying leaking fuel and hot exhaust dont mix?

I looked it over and it's clearly the fuel line running to the carb. It was probably a hard line originally all the way to the carb and a piece is now missing and replaced by the rubber hose. The rubber hose should work fine as long as it's designed to handle fuel -- especially since it's a low pressure system.

Nice tip! I even have the bender and cutter tools for working with brake line.

n8-mac wrote:r u saying leaking fuel and hot exhaust dont mix?

Mine flamed up years ago while cranking a hot engine. I'm more cautious now.

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Brake lines and fuel lines come in universal lengths and you simply purchase one slightly longer than what you really need. Originally, the fuel line was designed to go from the fuel pump up and to the rocker cover and then around the front of the rocker cover and then to the carburetor. The reason for going around the front of the valve cover was for two reasons, with COOLING of the fuel line the main reason, the second was to be able to remove the valve cover without removing the fuel line.
It was designed to be directly in line with the best air flow from the fan,so logically around the front of the valve cover. ALL the lines are made of a soft malleable steel that is very easy to double roll flare.
Flared fitting are 45 degree and ALL are interference fit, meaning one of the angles digging into and mating with the other and forming a seal. With ALL flared fittings the threads are ALWAYS straight thread, as it is not the threads that are what is doing the sealing. If you see Teflon tape on a flared fitting then something is wrong as the tape will not help a bad flare. Teflon tape is used to seal PIPE threads, with the tapered threads used as interference to each other and form the seal and some sort of thread sealant needed.
The only place you need any flex is from the engine to the body, everything else from the pump to the carb can be solid mounted as there is nothing to move. Exception is usually someone has mounted an auxiliary type fuel filter and small pieces of fuel line and hose clamps used.
I have used a simple marking pen for years to mark how and which direction I want to start or end or the direction to bend. Its pretty simple really.
Take a black marking pen and mark the plane that you want it to follow. Example, need to follow the floor pan,, simply put a mark on the top of the tube exactly parallel with the floor, mark it down the tube for an inch. This will tell you the direction you want it to go, then mark exactly where you want the bend to go around, that is your shortest point, and if you bend it before that mark, it will not go around what you want it to or in the correct direction.
If you mark the plane of direction and the stop and start points you CAN get it to look exactly perfect with a little practice. You will never be able to purchase a brake line or fuel line that will be exactly the correct length, I always buy it a little longer as cutting it at the right spot and doing the double flare is so easy to do.
Old Skool