do it yourself gas tank liner

my next project is to remove my gas tank and line the inside before it starts to leak, does anyone know what product i should use, and how much of it should i buy? thanks for any help, john

any of the kits out there are for 1 gas tank, you need to follow direction to the t. all of them should be 3 steps a cleaner a acid and a linner. it's important to get it dry after each step. so i used a shop vac. reversed the hose so it would blow fresh air in to the tank . It worked well. a lot of the old school rad shops also do the gas tank liners

thanks dix, i thought i would check with you guys first before i buy any, theres all kinds on ebay most for bikes,

his engine paint is very good also. this company is big in hemmings book. http://www.hirschauto.com/

thanks dix, i'll use this, he's been on the market the longest,

A radiator shop can vat and seal the tank for about $125. My local shop recommended against using the do it yourself kits. The reasoning was that if the internal liner doesn't stick properly (poor preparation/insufficient cleaning etc) that the sealer can start to flake off inside the tank. Makes sense to me.

They vatted mine in caustic solution, sealed the inside and painted the outside. Your mileage may vary of course but I thought Id throw that out there.


started out like this:




went back in like this:

wow, that looks new, i'll check with my local rad. shop, thanks slowflapper

It does indeed look great.

Do you have any info on that curved rubber fill hose? - where to get it or part # ?

rebar wrote:It does indeed look great.

Do you have any info on that curved rubber fill hose? - where to get it or part # ?

I don't have a part number for it, my OEM one had rotted away from the inside and had filled the fuel system with pepper flake sized rubber particles.

I took the ends of it (for diameter) to O'Reilly Auto Parts, went back to the hose rack and just got a 90 degree bend with the right diameter and enough length so I could cut it to fit.

also, have the rad shop save all of your old parts (or remove them yourself) if you swap out your sending unit its not uncommon for the repro lock rings to be too thin. I had to use my old lock ring with a new gasket and sending unit.

I just used strips of 1"x3/16" weather stripping as a mounting buffer for tank to van contact.

i dont know if that is a good idea useing radiator hose for gas hose ?

slowflapper wrote:

Appreciate you detailed response and good advice Mr slow. The reason I asked about the curved hose is that I recently got a straight hose from the industrial rubber supply house but haven't wrestled it on there yet. I'm inclined to share dodge man's concerns about whether the curved hose is rated for gas. If your old hose was not rated for gas, that may explain its deterioration and clogged fuel lines.

It looks like your tank mounting strap is painted white, but if it's stainless steel or aluminum, I just posted a thought (and just a thought) about dissimilar metals here -

https://vintage-vans.forumotion.com/t32015-stainless-gas-tank-straps#140893

on the dodgethucks they use a oil soaked type of tar paper as between them

As far as radiator hose for fuel filler...
I have a temporary boat tank I use for all my projects. I set it up 3+ years ago when I was building my hearse. I put a piece of rad hose on it to mount the boat filler cap, and I can look straight down in the tank to see how clean it is. That same piece has been on there for all this time. Im now running it in my van due to "blockage beyond the capacity of air hose to clear". It may not be the best idea, but it seems to atleast be "ok" with the "CA" blend of gas for a few years or more. From experience. I cant wait to drop my van tank and see whats up with it tho.

Good luck with your tank bro! Sounds like an interesting challenge ahead! Im sure you can do it.

dix wrote: on the dodgethucks they use a oil soaked type of tar paper as between them

Thank you Mr dix. That would probably prevent any potential problems.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/82-83-84-85-86-87-88-89-90-91-92-93-Chevrolet-S-10-Gas-Tank-Strap-Insulation-4pc-/310370320459?pt=Vintage_Car_Truc

k_Parts_Accessories&hash=item484383404b&vxp=mtrYOU COULD USE THIS, I'LL USE STRIPTS OF DUCT TAPE

Thank you Mr dodge man. I think you'll probably be ok as long as you don't have dissimilar metals directly contacting/rubbing against each other.

yeah i think 4 or 5 stripts of tape will work good to keep them separated, no metal against metal.

Guys dont bother w/ radiator hose. Order GATES # 24716 from any parts place. As for the gas tank. Ya may wanna check out www.gastankrenu.com They can take a rusted turd and send it back perfect..... expensive but perfect.

thanks for the help hebegb, but i want to do my own tank, its not that rusted, i will get a new hose, thanks for the part #

dodge man wrote:yeah i think 4 or 5 stripts of tape will work good to keep them separated, no metal against metal.

A strip of styrene, high-density polyethylene or other composite could work too, as long as the metals are separated. Maybe even some adhesive weather stripping.

Thank you for the info Mr hebe.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/270697410846?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

this is what i'll use, its good stuff, i'll take pictures when i get started on the job,

Most marine parts places will sell fuel rated corrugated hose.

Because they all have custom fuel tan installs thhey need a hose that will twist and bend.

Of course fuel leaks in boats are a little more serious than in cars.

My filler is hooked up with a marine fuel line and it was pretty reasonably priced.

d m. i did know he was selling on e-bay. and thanks hebegb for posting the gates number. that is what i used and lost the part number.