Scarebird brakes

Just pulled the trigger and bought the brackets for disc brakes on the front. Gathering all necessary parts, and will be doing this upgrade in a couple weeks. I am interested in pics of others installs. In particular how the proportioning valve was mounted, and how the brake light switch is done... Any help will be greatly appreciated.

i await how good this kit works out for you. i am not totally sure of this but i believe the kit they sell is for a d-series pickup and there are differences in the axles. hope this is not the case for your install but the 1/2 ton truck axles had different bolting patterns for the backing plates. that i am sure of as the part numbers are different for both 10" and 11" brakes for either a-series and d-series vehicles. if this does work for you i will get a set myself and make the conversion. been planning a conversion and trying to use all dodge stuff. good luck and let us know how it fits........

My van has the 2500 lb axles, with the 11 inch factory brakes. I researched the different bolt patterns and ordered what they said was the correct one. I will post up pics of my install as I go. I look forward to having good brakes, and not being so nervous when I get into lots of traffic.

Tom

i was going to do the upgrade but i was told the pedal would be just as hard to push, so i replaced all brakes, cylinders, hardware, master cylinder, and all lines, now the brakes work just as good as any truck without power brakes, i can even squeel the tires comming to a stop now, before it took all i had to get it to just slow down, let us know if theres a big change, john

The main reason I want disc brakes is I am planning a trip through the appalachian mountains next summer, and want really reliable brakes. I have had problems with the original drums not adjusting properly, pulling different directions at random, and the rears locking up when a light changes suddenly. I will let everyone know how they work out.
I don't think I am the first one on here to do this, was hoping to see some pics of installs.


Tom

millwright71 wrote:The main reason I want disc brakes is I am planning a trip through the appalachian mountains next summer, and want really reliable brakes. I have had problems with the original drums not adjusting properly, pulling different directions at random, and the rears locking up when a light changes suddenly. I will let everyone know how they work out.
I don't think I am the first one on here to do this, was hoping to see some pics of installs.


Tom

thats just normal for drum brakes all the conditions described. and it makes no difference who manufactured it. old geezers like me remember that and i'm only in my early 50's. i was 11 years old when my truck was built.....................

installing the disc brakes is 1 of the best things you can do. ask any one who did the conversion... I did.And very happy with it and no the pedel is not as hard as drum brakes..

if you look back in this section at [200 lbs on the brakes] you'll see were a fue guys said it takes as much or more presure to stop with disc brakes since there not power brakes, thats why i desided to stay with my drums, i still might change over, let us know how it turns out,

I have the scarebird brackets and every thing works great. I still say it stops better, faster, safer and easier with the disc.







The only problem i had was, that the instructions i got with the kit said to install the brackets one way and someone sent me instructions by email that said something different.

I don't have a proportioning valve on mine at all. Mine is also a 108.

nice lookin wheels john, my brakes are working so good now, i dont know weather to do the disc swap or not, if these drums ever fade on me i'll be ordering the kit,

depending on your m.c. you maynot need a porprortioning valve. do you know what the m.c. was intended for. .????

I think it was a 71 b van that had disc front, drum rear and manual brakes.

If i were to install a valve it would be adjustable and all it would do is lower the line pressure to the rear brakes. That is not a problem for me, wet or dry it stops great.

Thanks for the pics John, Did your sway bar link need modified? I bought a proportioning valve for the rear brakes only from summit, I saw somewhere that was installed if your rear brakes like to lock up in a panic situation. I will be getting a master from a 72 D100 truck with manual disc/drum brakes. I started the install today by removing everything from the spindles in front, and making all new lines for the rear.

john you do not need the porportioning valve then . that is what i used .the 71 b had disc in the front But they were not power till about 73. when they added the booster...

I don't feel the need, i don't want any less brake pressure at the rear. On a hard stop the front noses down but the rear never feels like it wants to lockup. So why mess with it.

Here is a picture of mine when i was installing the brackets. I bolted them up the way my instructions said, welds out.



After it was all together i found that they needed to be flipped around, welds in. You may also need the shorten the caliper bolts just a little. Make sure the bolts are clear of the rotors.

Thanks for the tips! I changed my order for the master cylinder to the 71 B van. I am looking forward to this thing being pretty much a daily driver next spring, and really want these brakes to perform. Sounds like I am definitely on the right track.


Tom

yes you are and i'm sure you will be pleased with the results..... let us know if you need help.....

keep use posted, my brakes are working fine for now but as soon as anything happens i'll switch over to disc, how much is the total cost to, thanks john

My scarebird brackets came today, as you can see, they made them universal to fit both styles of 2500 lb axles. Will post more progress pics when the rest of my parts come in.
[img]https://i.servimg.com/u/f44/1[url=https://servimg.com/view/17740080/11]7/74/00/80/300411.jpg[/img][/url]

If you haven't ordered rotors, look on ebay for drilled and slotted rotors. They were cheaper shipped to me, than i could buy cheap ones local.

I had $363 total in my swap.

I didn't like to amount i had to cut to fit the new master cylinder but you gotta do what you gotta do. And i didn't see any other way around it.

Stoopid john wrote:If you haven't ordered rotors, look on ebay for drilled and slotted rotors. They were cheaper shipped to me, than i could buy cheap ones local.
I had $363 total in my swap.

I got unloaded calipers for CHEAP on rockauto. Like 8$ each!
I think autozone had the best deal on rotors and pads, those were the most expensive part of the kit. I'd go to the junkyard if I was more ambitious that day!

what rotors and calipers does scarebird use.?? a lot of junk yards will not sell calipers due to insurance reasons. If you do find them make sure you flush them out real well .

when it comes to your brakes you shouldnt use nothing but new parts, it may save your life,,

IMO junkyard brake components are good for cores, if you can get them for less than the core charge.

I DO AGREE ... depending on what rotors they are using some rotor cores are worth upward of $60.00 ea. if that is your case i'd buy some junk yard ones and use those for the exchange. that was what i did. got mine on craigslist under parting out or dismantling. that is why i asked what rotors scarebird was using...