by Jamesa66 Sat Oct 13, 2012 3:59 pmOK, This is going to sound very "Rookie-esk" (i'm sure that is not a word) but I am trying to replace the front Brake Drums on my 66 Falcon and to the life of me I can not get the Hub separated from the drum. My shop manual never shows them separated and always refers to both as the Hub and Brake Drum Assembly. My question ........ Is it in fact made that way? As one? My next question is where can I find the Hub (if they are in fact separate)? I would like to replace both front drums and the hubs as well if possible. Thanks in advance for any help on this issue.
+3
dix
Twinpilot001
Jamesa66
7 posters
Front Brake Drum Help.
Jamesa66- Number of posts : 29
Location : Bristol, Virginia
Registration date : 2011-01-05
Twinpilot001- Number of posts : 6186
Location : spokane ,Wa.
Registration date : 2009-09-28
[iIm no ford expert =yet!! here in the archives - seems this has been discussed before. Maybe i believe the wheel studs must be groung off??/Down - like riveted sort of on to hold drum ti the hub. I do believe thats the problem & if you try pressing them apart =you WILL ruin the drum. look in archives & maybe a ford type will ring in here .
dix- Moderator 1st Class
- Number of posts : 8769
Location : pittsburgh pa
Age : 67
Registration date : 2008-05-29
the a100 dodges are as twinpiolet described if you can find the drums on the dodge same as the rears but you need to remove the hub. You would need to use a 5/8's or 3/4 hole saw and drill down thru the drum till the narl part of the stud is gone then the drum will fall off ruining the drum at the same time. do not beat on the studs or you will bend the hub. . but i'll leave the best answer up to the ford guys... http://www.pronto.com/user/search.do?displayQuery=hole%20saws&SEM=true&query=hole%20saws&adid=1189409416-9601734-0_gs&ref=hole%20saws&creativeid=3006229210&site=
donivan65- Governor
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Location : San Diego, California
Registration date : 2008-05-12
Well, on a Chevy, when you pull the wheel off, the drum falls on your foot, the fords are on there a little bit tighter,,,,you need to look at where the stud goes through the drum to see IF the shoulder has been swedged into the drum,,,,you surely don't want to bang the stud all the way out of the hub,,,,,HOWEVER,,,if you put the nut on flush and tapped all the studs down like 1/16" of an inch, that would unlock the stud from the drum and the hub would come off,,,,,those hubs could also be rusted to the drum, so use some penetrating oil between the hub and drum,,,,you might be able to take a dremel tool and grind the swedges down,,,,this is how a Chevy Guy would do it,,,,and there is also the Ford way,,,,,
Last edited by donivan65 on Sun Oct 14, 2012 12:28 pm; edited 1 time in total
Big W- Number of posts : 3282
Location : Saskatoon,Sask,Canada
Age : 60
Registration date : 2011-01-13
I'd say that sounds just about right. All of the above.
Jamesa66- Number of posts : 29
Location : Bristol, Virginia
Registration date : 2011-01-05
Great Suggestions, Thank you all!
donivan65- Governor
- Number of posts : 12245
Location : San Diego, California
Registration date : 2008-05-12
You need to see how stuck that hub is to the drum,,,,,you can put some pressure on the hub and tap those studs and see if something starts to move,,,,a little heat will help, but that hub could be rusted to the drum,,,,,
66ThunderVan- Number of posts : 384
Location : Portsmouth, Va.
Registration date : 2012-01-08
Studs are staked so be careful not to bend or warp the face of the drum. It is a sheet metal face cast into the drum. I usually press the studs out , one at a time, and replace them. Then, the drum and hub will come apart next time.
donivan65- Governor
- Number of posts : 12245
Location : San Diego, California
Registration date : 2008-05-12
I would not press the studs out,,,,,you will probably rip out all the serrations in the hub with the swedged section of the stud and then the studs won't hold and then spin when you try and take the lugnuts off.You need that holesaw or after you remove the hub, grind off the swedges so the wider swedged area can be pushed out through the hub without damaging the holes,,,,,
Jamesa66- Number of posts : 29
Location : Bristol, Virginia
Registration date : 2011-01-05
I got em off! Thanks for all of the help. Now would you guys suggest cleaning the drums up and turning them or replacing with the after market ones? They were prety rusty but I can probably sand blast them and clean them up a bit.
donivan65- Governor
- Number of posts : 12245
Location : San Diego, California
Registration date : 2008-05-12
There is a limit of how much you can cut out of the drums, usually less than .090,,,,so you need to have the drums measured to see how much meat is left on them,,,,,and get them cut to the same size so it stops straight,,,,
Jamesa66- Number of posts : 29
Location : Bristol, Virginia
Registration date : 2011-01-05
Thanks Again Donivan65. I will have them checked out. Thanks again for all of the info. I hope to get this thing up and running soon. One of these days ......
donivan65- Governor
- Number of posts : 12245
Location : San Diego, California
Registration date : 2008-05-12
You need to take the drums to a machine shop to check the size and taper in them to see if they are good to use or turn,,,,,if you make the drums too thin, they will overheat and warp, then they will start grabbing,,,,so turning them is not the best thing to do,,,,the closer they stay to their stock size, the better,,,,you turn them if they REALLY need it,,,,,and are causing problems,,,,,
Big W- Number of posts : 3282
Location : Saskatoon,Sask,Canada
Age : 60
Registration date : 2011-01-13
Mine looked really bad for rust as they had sat for many years with some water always settleing on the bottom of each drum. I just used a wire wheel on my drill and that got rid of most of the heavy rust. Sprayed them down with brake cleaner to rince them clean and stuck them on. The brake shoes will also clean a lot of it off where they contact the inside of the drum. Did a spin test to see how they rubbed on the new shoes and decided to not have them turned. The new shoes fit really well into each drum. If they are to badly grooved up inside, the new shoes will wear into them and should still last a long time. You Could post a pic of your drums for a better analysis. The key thing is to make sure your brakeing surface of your drum touches most if not all of the pad on the shoe. The more the drums are turned (if they haven't been allready in it's life history) the less braking surface you will have. Also after you clean them up if they rub tight, loose, tight, loose, then you may need to have them turned to get rid of the egg shape if it exists on yours.
grpphoto- Number of posts : 14
Location : New Jersey
Registration date : 2012-07-03
Jamesa66 wrote:OK, This is going to sound very "Rookie-esk" (i'm sure that is not a word) but I am trying to replace the front Brake Drums on my 66 Falcon and to the life of me I can not get the Hub separated from the drum. My shop manual never shows them separated and always refers to both as the Hub and Brake Drum Assembly. My question ........ Is it in fact made that way? As one? My next question is where can I find the Hub (if they are in fact separate)? I would like to replace both front drums and the hubs as well if possible. Thanks in advance for any help on this issue.
The hub and drum are not separate. The wheel lugs are swagged in a press and expand at the base to lock the drum to the hub. You can saw the lugs off short to separate the two, but you'll need an experienced machine shop to install the new lugs.
Been there, done that.
George
