Steering Gear Adjustment--WOW!!!

A couple months ago I finally got around to replacing my King Pins and noticed a great improvement, but it seemed that I have/had alot of wander in the steering with what I would call having to do alot of oversteering to make things happen. After searching about box rebuilding here I figured I give some adjustment a shot. I loosened the jam nut and started screwing till it stopped, about 1 1/2 turns tightening and locked her down. Did a test drive around the block and noticed improvement from before. I figured, lets try this again and see if it will go any tighter. I got another 1 3/4 turns before it stopped. Figuring that I didn't want to over tighten it I took 1/4 out and locked it down. Another drive showed not much more change from before, but hard to tell as I didn't drive far. I took it for a longer drive to really get a feel for it, I could say that it seems a little to tight, but could that be from that I was used to alot of slop and looseness? Hard to say! I should have checked the fluid level when I did this, but I do feel safer driving it now and probably should take it out and rebuild inspect it, etc. just to make sure all is good. I just thought I'd share, Comments and suggestions are welcome.

im inspired to try that on mine but i also need kingpins to not sure im gonna tackle that though,have no way to heat it to get it out,and no way to bore to fit proper putting it up on blocks in 2 weeks to start the complete brake replacement everything plus drop tank fix that and run new fuel lines (yeah i figure 2 years and ill be ready for body work 2 more to do that couse i only get to work on mine for about 2-3 hours every 2 weeks fun fun fun thanks for ure post man,dave

Follow the book and make sure the gearbox is on center!
Thumbs up for keeping another on the road and improving it!

The grease inside that steering box is probably all crusty. It probably wouldn't hurt if you were able to pull it and regrease it on the bench. It might have an impact on how tight you want the steering box to be.

sasktrini wrote:The grease inside that steering box is probably all crusty.

There's no grease in there, it's gear lube! I wound up having to add about 4 oz till it ozzzed out the hole. I was nose low otherwise probably have gotten another shot in there. It seems tight, maybe I'm just not used to it after being so sloppy and loose?
kykayak- King pins aren't that hard, I didn't use heat however it might of made the job easier. Wasn't really any hard problems doing them. Just do it!
Rod- I did follow the book and kept it centered. I'm just shocked that I got 2 1/2 turns on it, surprised I'm still alive. After doing the pins the steering had a total different mind of it own. Seemed that it needed alot of oversteer to make things happen. That what got me to checkin it out. Ton's better even after adding lube and rechecking adjustment screw from my first adjustment.
Funny the FSM says to check lube every 2,000 miles and add 90wt to cover the worm gear, seems excessive to me. I've had it 8 years and have probably put 8-9,000 miles on it.
NOTE to ALL--- Just check your fluid regularly, who knows when it was last done, you might be surprised by just fluid and adjustment can do!!! I know I am! I should remove, clean, inspect just to CYA, maybe when I get around to motor rebuild. Just do it!!

while shes in the air maybe i will before i start brake3 job thanks for the info,dave

Next, check alignment.
If yours is nose down like a lot of ours are, the caster is probably off. This is what keeps the wheels straight and returns the steering to center after going around a corner.

69 did u have to ream the bore out before u installed ure kingpins thanks,dave

Rod- I should of said that I was backed into a uphill driveway, hense nose low. I did have a aligment done a few years ago but probably is outta wack with the new Pins. I want to locate this clunking noise before spending for another one.
kyk- I did have to have one side reamed as it was a PITA getting the pin in. I shoulda done that with the other side as that is the one that's alittle tighter. Live and learn.

where did u get ure reamer at or does it come with kit thanks man,dave

I had the machine shop at NAPA do it while I waited. Must of been a slow day, it took him about 10 minutes to do. I slipped him a 10 spot for his troubles.

k thanks,dave

Gear lube... makes sense. Pictures I've seen of the Econoline rebuilds, the 45 year old gear oil looked like grease by the time it was disassembled! Yuck! Me... I haven't been brave enough to go there yet!

Never thought about the fluid in the gear box any till now. I will have to check and probable change that next week, while I am on spring break.

Just read this post as I was searching for some clues to my steering wander. My 67 A100 has had a complete front end rebuild, king pins, bushings, tie rod ends, FE alignment with toe in set at .25", new axle bearings races and seals, axle bearings set to 300 inch pounds, new tires and wheels. The steering gear fluid is new, the side adjustment on the gear has been tightened up. I measured about 1 1/2 to 2 inches of steering wheel freeplay to the right and left of center. The only part that has not been replaced is the drag link. The steering wander is still too much to feel safe driving over 45. So I will be examining the drag link today, discussing the tires with the seller on tuesday. Any suggestions??

Do you know what the caster is? That makes a big difference on how it feels driving down the road, if the drag link is good.

There are bushings and I think some bearings in the steering box that adjustment won't cure. If all else checks out Id suggest going back to that.

The alignment shop used a newer computerized alignment machine. It did not have the exact make and model of the van in its data base. So the tech looked at a few other dodge vehicles and said that dodge used .25 inch toe in on alot of the earlier trucks. He did not tell me what the caster setting was. I did not see the FE alingnment specs in the dodge service manual. Anyone know what the specs are supposed too be?

Disregard the last post I made. Just found the specs in a Chilton Manual. .
please respond if you think this is wrong!!
1967 to 1969 All models: Caster 5 1/2P to 6 1/2P with 6P preferred.
Camber 1 1/4P to 1 3/4P with 1 1/2 preferred. TOE IN 1/16". Turning angle in degrees 33.

Mine only had 1.5-2* of caster, has to be from the springs sagging or just being old. I put 4* shims in it and it helped a lot. I haven't had time to check what it is now, i'd like to know if a 4* shim really moved 4*.

So after all of the running around with a very scary front end wander, I got the van back too my shop and removed the steering gear box. When the bottom plate holding the worm gear came off the bottom bearing plastic cage was broken and chewed up. The bottom race was really pitted and scored. The top bearing cage was ok, the bearings were worn and the race was clean and shiny on part of the way aound and really beat up and pitted the rest of the way aound. Went on line and found a reman box from discountsteering.com. It shoud be here on monday. Will let you know if the quality of the part and service is worth the price.

Would like to hear about how DiscountSteering.com worked out for you.

Also, please don't flame me because I've been doing this for years on old worm and ball boxes on old vans from VW to Ford and Chevy. I clean them out real well with brake clean (don't breath that stuff) and put in about a half ounce of syn 90 weight gear oil. Turn it around enough that everything inside is wet. Then I close to fill with synthetic bearing grease like Mobile1. Eventually, some will come out the top bearing but it really doesn't get messy.

Unless you are in a super cold environment like Alaska or Canada this will get you smooth operation (synthetic really stays fluid when cold), less wobble and pretty much a one-time solution.

And, it works out to be just viscous enough to turn well, fill some gaps in worn parts and not leak out. Really one of the best solutions I've ever done in years of keeping old ones on the road.

Happy motoring!

Also, those three stone master cylinder/wheel cylinder reamers work fine as an King Pin reamer. Just be carefull not to overdoo it as you want everything to reassemble as tight as you can. And that bore doesn't need to anything as clean as a brake bore--just spin out the major snags. It going to get bushings and grease so just feeling fairly smooth to the finger works fine. Also, if you have too much play a machine shop can Knarl it (if that's the right word) if you've got too much play. Good luck.