Looking for head gasket torquing diagram, 1963 170 straight 6

I have to replace the exhaust manifold on my 63 170 and with great apprehension I started to take it off, amazingly every bolt came off without incident. It took 30 minutes! Then eBay comes thru with a brand new manifold for $99. It is going so well, so I'm going to keep going and replace the head gasket. Can anyone provide a diagram for the torque pattern on the head?? Many thanks.....

Check here maybe you can find the torque specs here....
http://olybrake.com/pdf/fel_pro_torque_specs_guide.pdf

All torquing patterns operate on the same principle, so a diagram is really unnecessary. First off, need to remember the reason for a torque value. It insures you have enough force on the bolt without stretching the bolt or pulling threads out if over torqued.
Next,,, its in a pattern that equally pulls the parts down and together and NOT bending anything while you do it.
So,,you always start with the inner most set of bolts(two to a row), go to the very next one in that same row and then continue in a circle from that bolt to the next one in the adjoining row. Continue to the next one in that same row, and then continue in a circle to the opposite row just like the two that you have just done.
This way, you are tightening that part of the head down in a circle pattern, starting from the center of the cylinder head..working your way out equally, both sides at the same time and not one side first.
WHEN I get to the outer two bolts on each end of the cylinder head, I reverse my circle so that the bolt is opposite of the last one that I torqued down and on the opposite side of the head. That way it applies the pressure directly opposite to the last one torqued. If you were to look at the diagrams in the books it would show the same technique.
PLEASE remember to tap and clean the block threads and clean the bolts thoroughly to insure a correct torque reading. I also, use a thread sealer like Permatex #2 non hardening.
ALSO,,, very important, go down in 25 lb increments, completing each circle pattern until you have reached the torque reading required.
ONE MORE TIP,,, I put a pc of new sandpaper on a pc of real flat wood, (I personally use a blocking plane for body work as it holds the paper and is perfectly flat),and I put a CROSS HATCH type pattern on the block. That way I can get it perfectly flat and the cross hatch pattern helps to hold a gasket better.
CHILTON'S lists the cylinder head torque for 170/200 at 70/75 lbs.
vic

Awesome, thanks Vic!!! what a great amount of information. Sounds like everything one would need to know! I was told 2 things I am curious about. 1) you should run it about 10 hours, pull the valve cover an re-torque the bolts, and 2) you should run a tap the in and out of the theaded holes "just in case". Do you agree?

That was why I did mention to re tap the holes, and also mentioned to clean the threads on the bolts and use #2 Permatex to seal them. It also helps protect the threads in the block as well as the bolt from the water in the block.

It is recommended to re-torque the head and that seems like a reasonable time, perhaps a bit more, although to date, I have never found one move on me?????
The flat pc of metal or whatever and the cross hatch pattern is very important
especially more if you have a blown head gasket. Just be careful and put some toilet paper in each jug as well as the lifter bays to keep the sand particle out. I use my wet and dry vac to pull the toilet paper out as it will also pull any dirt particles out. Move the pistons up and down and thoroughly clean any grit that may have gotten past the paper...
vic