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BRINGING IT ALL TOGETHER.... A's, G's & E's


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    4x4 Swap Components Question

    Old Dirty
    Old Dirty


    Number of posts : 70
    Location : Maryland
    Registration date : 2011-05-04

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    Post by Old Dirty Wed Nov 16, 2011 11:00 pm

    Hey Fellas, getting further along on my '67 Chevy 4x4 conversion. Can't express enough how much I've enjoyed and learned from this forum, thank you all for that.

    What I'm wondering is what transfer cases, transmissions, etc are popular with the 4x4 conversions. I've come to the conclusion that once my drivetrain is in, the rear driveshaft will be way too short for proper operation. I'm using a 1987 K10 pickup as a donor, and it's equipped with a 700R4 and a NP208 transfer case with the long slip yoke tailshaft. I know I can eliminate the slip yoke and gain some inches, or switch to the shorter NP205, but I'm just curious to see what others have done.

    Some recent internetting found me wondering about the T90 transmission and the Dana/Spicer 18 transfer case from the early forward control Jeeps. It would be awesome to retain the 3 on the tree, but how hard is it to do and where can you get the parts??

    I'm using the pickup frame, shortening it, then mounting the van body on top. Makes things a little different, but the length ends up the same, and I'm at the point where its time to pick out the right components. Any input is very appreciated.

    Keep on Vannin!!
    Vanish
    Vanish
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    Post by Vanish Wed Nov 16, 2011 11:19 pm

    Have seen Mostly NP205's ....seems to be popular !! your rear drive line will be short ...

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    Guest
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    Post by Guest Fri Nov 18, 2011 6:36 pm

    I have a jeep with a 10" lift, I used a double cardan joint at my slip joint, This jeep flexes crazy and I have never had a problem, My rear shaft is very short and at a pretty radical angle, Also goes 70mph down the road no problem.

    http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/index.html

    Check these guys out, There the ones who built mine.
    Hope this helps
    Old Dirty
    Old Dirty


    Number of posts : 70
    Location : Maryland
    Registration date : 2011-05-04

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    Post by Old Dirty Fri Nov 18, 2011 9:14 pm

    Thanks for the input, I'm sending the pickup frame out real soon to be shortened. I think i might see where things end up and go from there. Figuring if its close enough I can do a slip yoke eliminator kit on the transfer case then get a custom driveshaft made. Looks like some of those double cardan joints can go to almost 4o degrees. I think my truck is lifted about 6" (it was already done when I got it) so i should be OK if Motorhead is running 10" on a Jeep which is about the same lenght as a van. Motorhead, do you know about how long your rear driveshaft is? And what trans/transfercase are you running in the Jeep? Thanks!
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    Post by Guest Sat Nov 19, 2011 12:53 pm

    my driveshaft is 26" running at a 30deg angle when level, case is a NP231 w/ out a SYE. A SYE would give about another 4" or so. There is a ton of aftermarket support for the 231 with adapters for darn near any transmission thru Novack and Advanced Adapters. I assume you are already planing on rotating your pinion up as well?

    http://offroaddesign.com/
    Makes a real nice shackle flip for GM's rear shackles, Gives about 4" of lift, so if your running blocks you can throw those away and will rotate your pinion up without shims at your spring mounts.
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    Post by Guest Sat Nov 19, 2011 12:54 pm

    My Jeep has about 9" of lift as well. My rear driveline after a SYE kit I ended up with a rear driveline that was 21" long from joint to joint. It flexes fine, no vibrations or anything. Plenty of movement to cover the entire suspension travel. The thing you need to make sure of is that when you go with a CV style joint on your driveline that you point the pinion of the rear axle at the t-case output. The CV joint is supposed to handle all of the angle while the pinion u-joint is just there as a connection point basically.
    They also make extreme angle CV joints that can run right at a 45* angle, so if you find yourself sitting at the extremes of a standard CV joint you can go that route. They are spendy but if its the only way to accomplish the task it is what it is.

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