by VanninBlaino Mon Nov 07, 2011 2:45 pmI'm getting a dropped axle, finally! Should i try to buy another axle to send to the guy, or get my stock axle dropped? Are A100front axles rare?
4 posters
Some advice on lowering
VanninBlaino- Number of posts : 361
Location : New Orleans, LA
Age : 29
Registration date : 2011-05-30
virtual- Number of posts : 257
Location : Toronto, Canada
Registration date : 2008-05-21
Check out : http://coopstripes.blogspot.com/ he is building another radical A100. Send Coop a message through the blog, if anyone knows how to drop an A100 he would be the man.
VanninBlaino- Number of posts : 361
Location : New Orleans, LA
Age : 29
Registration date : 2011-05-30
Thanks!
dix- Moderator 1st Class
- Number of posts : 8745
Location : pittsburgh pa
Age : 67
Registration date : 2008-05-29
coop is not droping his,,,
VanninBlaino- Number of posts : 361
Location : New Orleans, LA
Age : 29
Registration date : 2011-05-30
I didn't see much about dropping, but i saw disc brakes and shaved hinges. Theres two things I'm looking for. Is ther a way to email him?
SDEconoTruck- Number of posts : 310
Location : San Diego, California
Registration date : 2010-05-26
Hey VanninBlaino,
I dropped my axle. (it was a strange series of events
started when I bought an axle from a member here...)
I got pics and info. One thing to consider is when the
axle is re-bent and lowered, the width gets narrower.
Mine was 1-1/2" narrower, or 3/4" narrowed on each side.
Mine is an Econoline but similar enough so it applies.
Two things come to mind to look out for. First, the
steering arm off your Driver's Side spindle may interfere
with your frame or bumpstop (bumpstop in my case.) I had
to modify my bumpstop a bit. It is important to cycle
your suspension and steer lock-to-lock to check for
any issues.
I'm trying to show the interference here with a bolt.
Solution was to trim the bumpstop and still keep it
in the same place:
The other thing to REALLY PAY ATTENTION TO IS THE
GEOMETRY OF THE AXLE. Assuming you got a guy with
good skills who re-set your beam in a jig, you also
got to get the caster and toe-in right. To get the
caster right you will need to put wedge shim under
your springs where they rest on the axle.
You can just see the silver shim under the spring. I
had to use 2 degree shims.
If you do not get the caster right, things will feel okay,
until you reach a certain speed, then all of a sudden things
go crazy. This is VERY DANGEROUS and must be done right.
Likewise the toe-in must be set carefully, the same as stock
specs.
I should also mention it is a good idea to get new
bumpstops.
Last, your wheels are going to be inboard more than when
they were stock so check for rubbing on the draglink,
shock, inner fender and sway bar, again while cycling the
suspension.
Hope this helps,
George
I dropped my axle. (it was a strange series of events
started when I bought an axle from a member here...)
I got pics and info. One thing to consider is when the
axle is re-bent and lowered, the width gets narrower.
Mine was 1-1/2" narrower, or 3/4" narrowed on each side.
Mine is an Econoline but similar enough so it applies.
Two things come to mind to look out for. First, the
steering arm off your Driver's Side spindle may interfere
with your frame or bumpstop (bumpstop in my case.) I had
to modify my bumpstop a bit. It is important to cycle
your suspension and steer lock-to-lock to check for
any issues.
I'm trying to show the interference here with a bolt.
Solution was to trim the bumpstop and still keep it
in the same place:
The other thing to REALLY PAY ATTENTION TO IS THE
GEOMETRY OF THE AXLE. Assuming you got a guy with
good skills who re-set your beam in a jig, you also
got to get the caster and toe-in right. To get the
caster right you will need to put wedge shim under
your springs where they rest on the axle.
You can just see the silver shim under the spring. I
had to use 2 degree shims.
If you do not get the caster right, things will feel okay,
until you reach a certain speed, then all of a sudden things
go crazy. This is VERY DANGEROUS and must be done right.
Likewise the toe-in must be set carefully, the same as stock
specs.
I should also mention it is a good idea to get new
bumpstops.
Last, your wheels are going to be inboard more than when
they were stock so check for rubbing on the draglink,
shock, inner fender and sway bar, again while cycling the
suspension.
Hope this helps,
George
VanninBlaino- Number of posts : 361
Location : New Orleans, LA
Age : 29
Registration date : 2011-05-30
Thanks!
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