A100 lowering ????????

hi not been here for a while ,but i'm making slow progress on my a100 .......

whilst lying under it cleaning underseal off , i was trying to work out the best way of lowering it ,has anyone got any ideas/pics etc , my thoughts were either - putting the axles on top of the springs , four linking and coil springs or four linking and air bags .......

any ideas or words of warning etc would be great please

Smaller wheels and tyres? J/K, good luck, and have plenty of spare cash handy.

I was going to order a slightly taller tyre size for my fronts, and realised I needed to buy a new garage door first....doh.

The rear is pretty easy, do an axle flip. you need the remove the old spring perches, weld new ones on and get shorter shocks. You will have to notch the frame rails so there is still decent suspension movement. You can do air bags too, but more money.
The front is not so easy. Search here for some info, but no one has done a full How-To.
Big bucks is to adapt a different suspension system and steering, along with probably raising the wheelwells or running a shorter tire.

first thoughts for ease was an axle flip on the rear , i didn't know if you can do the same with the front though .....

these axles used to be popular with the t-bucket crowd i betcha there are some drop spindle set ups out there...

Go to Nostalgia Sid's, looks like he can do any kind of drop you want and looks reasonable to boot.[url=droppedaxles.com]droppedaxles.com[/url]

When you flip the axle in the back and nothch the frame, do you have to cut the floor for the axle to travel?

the fronts have been done before, if this is what you want to do then i'll look back it to this... I think 1 way is to remove the front axle and turn it 180 / flip it. Or you can run the leafs under the front axle.either way there is more work than this .but it will point you in the right direction...

Mild lowering, remove some leaves. People on here have done this and reported loving the look but hating the ride.
For the front, you can have the axle dropped. This means heating and bending the ends higher from the center of the axle. Old hot rodder trick.
Next is axle flipping. The axles are under the springs stock. Flipping means the axles are set up on top of the springs. You start running into clearance issues here.
Gotta deal with this stuff on a case-by-case basis.
Do searches for magnumcharger Deora replica to see lots of info. He used to have a huge build thread on another site, but It's not showing any more.
Here's a link to a few of his pictures.
http://www.hubgarage.com/mygarage/Magnumcharger/vehicles/2377

You can also use a combo of the items mentioned before, along with smaller diameter wheel/tires.
Next is doing major surgery. Axles and 4-link in the rear, same in front or adapt a independent front suspension.
You may end up doing frame rails at this point, since so much of the unibody box is cut away.
This one was set on an S-10 chassis, but not finished when it was put up for sale. That's where I got the picture.
Steering and braking have to be addressed along with engine/trans placement.


If you go big (drop), remember that the doors and wheelwells in front need to be raised into the body. Big work! You can see this on Church's Van Go.

I plan on going big like Van Go eventually, but just want a low static dropped ride for now. I was going to go with dropped axle in the front and flipped axle in the back. I hear flipped axle in the front makes terrible bump steer. I'm also planning for either 18" and 20" wheels staggered, or 18" all around, and to get back lower from increased wheel size I might de-arch my leaf springs. Thats another option, and it runs about $200 down here for an inch or maybe 2 or 3.

[b]hey phil i lowered my 70 a 100 pick up by putting axles on top of leaf springs worked great you have to shorten the sway bar links and mill the straight axle for u bolts and pad.FYI 1969 300 chrysler rotors fit a100 spindles exactly bearings and seals.

is that a 14 inch or 15 inch rotor????

11- 1/2 in rotor off b body