Gettin' Stoopid 66G

Flipping the link would do 2 things, 1= Throw the whole think off line sideways and 2- create a clearance issue with the hiems. I was already concerned with having a single shear with the bolts and extending them out would increase that. But just shortening the links should bring it more vertical at operating hieght. Kits are available for rear swaybar set ups, but I havent been able to find enough info to feel comfortable trying to build something for the front. The swaybar on my brothers 74 Cuda might be a better fit I think, but I'm sure he'd miss it ,,lol
just trying to work with what I have on hand, I dont have alot of time to do the junkyard searches. The main goal is not to make a road racer but to steady the roll from the bags. One of the first thoughts I had was to mount the swaybar to the axle and run the endlinks to the frame , but that threw them smack into the tires on turns.
Will just have to settle for getting it as close to okay as possible.

I think I remember Speedway selling a sway-bar kit in different widths. It was splined and was like a torsion bar.It was cheap too! check out the website. I really like this build-so much to inspire me!!

Thanks Jim. Yeah I have checked out Speedway. I havent ruled out something like that all the way yet. But it puts it in an area where the realestate is being set aside for the radiator if I did a conventional frame mount with it. Nothing is written in stone and its just metal so anything can change,,LOL

Hey Zuffen, I settled for this:

The angle ended up not so bad by bringing it down . At least its perpendicular to the swaybar. and it still has just enough clearance on the leaf springs when in motion.
I put the headers in place to get them out of the way today. somethin' fun

what headders -brand & part # & who from?? Thanx

Hookers, No idea on part #, got them off craigslist for 50$, supposedly fit a chevelle/BB

Definitely 100% better.

If only you could get the link from the axle to the bar verticle it would be perfect but hey you gotta fit what and where you can.

I know I've had to make compromises on my build for the same reasons.

Joe, did you ever get to see what the weight difference was with the motor set back, why I ask is I already set mine back 3" but need to go back 6-7" more. My supercharger is setting where the passenger side seat goes. Bob

Not anywhere near that point yet Bob. We've been so busy with "Real" work lately I haven't had time to do much other that look,ponder and put a tape measure to a few things for awhile. I'm curious myself and thinking with the RA framing I'm going to be nearing the 50/50 zone. But thats just guessing.

I was just curious, racing season is over maybe my buddy will let me borrow his scales. I have decide to move the motor back 8", hopefully then I can have a passenger side seat!!!! Bob

Hey Bob you got any pics of what you're doing or a link? Have I missed something in the posts? Yeah I was trying to think if I knew anyone with some pressure mat scales I could use , but drawing a blank around here.

Sorry Digz, not much of a picture guy, As for the scales I have a buddy that build stock cars and has scales that go under each wheel. They do this to get the left side weight right. I just didn't want to make the front end to lite. Bob

I've probably got 250ish lbs of interior in the back and it is a 60/40 split on the orange van. Im curious as to what you find out if you get a chance.

Starting to think about the DH as it will have to work with changes to the cooling system and the set back of the engine. Started by stripping out the mat that was in it as it is going to undergo a lot of cutting.

Instead of lengthing out and ending up with that coffin/toolbox look , my bro and I are shooting for shortening it and keeping a semi-stock look and blending into the wheel wells more. Still aim for the entire cover to be able to flip up. See how it goes , I have 2 DHs to work with in case I mess up.

One thing about having everything to do is you can jump around. Decided to fill the hinge holes. And opened up another.

The patch that was in there was done incorrectly to me and had cracked arond the edges.
Started by hacking out a piece of 18ga about an inch bigger around than the opening. Made some centering marks and put a couple screws in to temp hold it to mark.

From there I trimmed it back so the flanging tool would reach in far enough to leave room to get a below surface weld in ( on the inside of the yellow line.

See how it works out tomorrow I hope.

Got it tacked in today. Didn't go to bad.

Slapped a little duraglass on it and the hinges I welded up and dida quick roughout with the DA

Need to clean it up and slap some seam sealer on the inside.

looks good Digs how does the gull wing lock in place.???

LOVE THOSE DAISY ON THE REAR,,NICE WORK DIGZ

dix wrote:looks good Digs how does the gull wing lock in place.???

Gravity right now !!

on the j






















































the j&j fiberglass doors they used a boat wiper motor with a 3 way switch. let me see what i can find.

i have no idea what happened to the last post.???????

This is what the motor looked like . Mounted around center. A alluminum plate with 3 holes in it. Top and bottom holes for a cable going each way To a spring loaded latch. This motor is expenseive but gives you the idea.

Dix, I have a box of latches for the gull. Just haven't dug into it yet to see what all it will take to make work. Looking at those pics, we had a couple chrome marine WW motors around for years on a shelf. might not hurt to see if they are still there,,LOL
Managed to break the pad off my DA sander this morning. Luckily the auto parts store stocks spares( wonder why). So they sent one down to the shop and that let me get this far.

Should have had them send down a a gallon of filler to ,, discovered later mine was crap as it was almost gone anyway.