how to reroute emissions hoses?

Hi guys,
i just started my old van with its super six 2 days ago, its started at its third try, just primed and fired up ( the engine didnt work for 4 years , i had to put back the breaker points system from the old engine cause i didnt have the electronic box for the electronic ignition( but its coming up!) but my question today is.....how do you route thoses hoses from the carb and the engine, i blocked everything except the distributor advance(which was plugged to carb) and valve cover oil breather and pcv were slighly fuming, i just dont want to pollute more...as soon it started the idle was very smooth, didnt have the time to time it yet...what should i take in consideration (i know its a large question) ..the engine is a 1979 super six with a 2 barils Carter carb....thanks for any inputs

HaHa - im really old school now - I get rid of all that crap That I can. I buy the older vans and cars just because there great looking and DONT have all the polution stuff on them. I still love the old points distributor - just because when im on the road & something goes amiss with that I can go to any auto parts anywhere - and get the pieces to repair . I can also scrape an ol set of points enough with a nail I found roadside to get em working and get me to the parts store or home . Let the women buy the new cars & pay the big bucks to fix em or what they really love is gettin a new car every 3-5 years so its always in warranty. I dont like payments , especially for something overpriced and resale drops 5K when i drive it off the dealers lot!! Happy Vannin Keepin it =BASIC!!

first, very good point Donivan65 , i'll put back what was availlable in 1966, so i'll look at drawings from a 1966 s/ and 1979 super six, and figure out what to plug, to keep the look original as possible, i like the old things two, but the electronic ignition is very relable , so i'll go that way for the ignition...my daily driver is 1987 Dodge Ram(318) paid cash, reliable, easy to fix, cheap parts easy to get, i can do everything with handtools (no electronic diagnosis crap), low insurance(80$ a year, try to beat that!), and people keep telling me my truck looks good because its so differente from todays plastic pick up....its also my way to go twinpilotoo1...BASIC ....thanks for your inputs guys

There once was a smog pump as well on that super six engine, if not still. You want to remove the smog tube off the back of the head and block it as well as the one off the intake. Easiest solution is to use an older 2bl carb off a 318 pre emissions work good.

PCV hose to base of carb, and vacuum advance to either ported vacuum (normal) or to manifold vacuum (if the dist. is recurved for it).
All others can be blocked off.
As mentioned, there is a AIR fitting that must be blocked too.
If you grabbed the EVAP cannister, you could pumb that too, to help keep the vapors down (no real power loss).

This gets into something I have been wondering about as far as the bowl vents on a newer carbs, would it make sense to hunt up a evap can at least for that ?? currently I have mine plugged for no reason other than I cant figure out a good and safe place to vent it to.

Just in time for earth day!
EVAP systems have evolved over the years. The modern ones on today's EFI cars would not translate well to our old vans, so let's consider a good basic system from the mid-70s that still had carbs and no computer.

EVAP was mainly for the gas tank. If you have a van, you know the main source of fumes is the large volume of gas in the tank expanding with heat. You also have the carb with a smaller volume, but higher heat boiling off lots of fumes.

For the fuel tank, you would need to source a fuel/vapor separator and be able to route the fuel back to the tank from that. The tanks had an air space built in too, plus the sealed cap. Unless you are going to have a custom tank built, the best we can do is use the existing tank and the anti-burp hose. Try not to top up the tank and the cap will have to be a sealed type. These should be a lot easier to find, but don't put it on until the whole thing is complete.
The other issue is that the vapor separator must be higher than the tank and you don't want it inside the van with you.
The system in this figure is a very early type, showing the tank and vapor separator.



For the bowl vent, you are better off leaving it unplugged, even though some dirt can get in. They have small filters that can be installed in a vacuum line if you prefer. If you do install an EVAP, route it there.
Early non-computerized systems had a purge control vacuum hose that opened a valve on the cannister when the engine is running, allowing the vapor to be drawn into the engine. The figure below shows the dist. hose, but you could use another ported vacuum source if you have a later carb with more fittings.
This is probably the most basic, simple diagram for anyone contemplating adding EVAP to something without it.
A line from the tank, a line to the bowl vent, a purge line and a control line. Add the cannister, and it's all there.
Note that this is also just has a fitting on the top of the tank. This would allow fuel to saturate the cannister, which is BAD news. It could also siphon out that way. This is the one area where you have to think SAFE. Consider pressure and gravity in this, so be careful how the tank is vented and make sure only vapors, not fuel can move through this line. Most have a roll-over valve in this line too. Don't forget to route all hoses where they won't get burned, chaffed or cut.


Easiest way to connect the vent hose for us would be the PCV valve with another hose barb.



After all is said and done, you are adding maybe 5 pounds of stuff; 4 hoses, a cannister, a sealed fuel cap and something back at the tank to keep gas from going to the cannister. You are only adding a bit of fuel vapor to the mixture off idle, something a later carb is often designed to compensate for and you are storing the vapors rather than letting them vent. Not a bad retrofit for out old vans.