A100 General education question

Since I am really targeting an A series, can anyone give me a general breakdown of significant differences in models, if there is any, such as factory stock options, etc. I really want a window van of some kind. If that info is already found somewhere, that link would suffice.

I am learning that the back ends on some vans can't really sustain high speeds efficiently? Is that correct, and if so, what do I look for in an turnkey van to know that engine will be able to make an interstate road trip at highway speeds? I don't necessarily want a slow poke, so an upgraded engine would be of interest.

This is a great site and I appreciate the help for an infant dummy. Thanks, Lee

Might try a google search on specific models and brands you are interested in. There are very knowledgeable people here & will help you.

I've got an A108 (108" Wheel base) with a 318, 727 automatic, and 3.55 rear end gears. I don't have a tach, but it does pretty good on the highway at 70 mph, I would guess I'm running 2500 to 2800 rpm. There is some wonder with the manual steering, but if you have ever driven a full size van it won't bother you. The main thing with all vans of this age is to TRAILER it home unless you are really close to home so you can personally inspect everything. One of the posts on the site describes what happens when a wheel bearing locks up on the freeway and the damage that happens.

The basics (with a few variations):
They will either be a 90" or 108" wheel base, to me the 108 seems to be more popular with camper conversions and passenger van models (i.e. it'll have two bench seats in the back). The 90" tends to be a cargo van and only have two front seats from the factory (with some exceptions of course).

The engines:
It will have either a slant six, a 273 V8 or a 318 V8 (unless someone changed it after the fact). The slants provide enough power to be comfortable and the V8's obviously offer more.

driveline:
it will have either an automatic or a 3-speed on-the-column manual. From what I gather a rear gear in the 3.55 range is common, I swapped my 3.55 for a 2.94 gear so I get lower rpm at higher speed.

trim:
I think there was a "bare bones" model like mine (just a cargo van) that only had two seats. There's the "sportsman" and "tradesman" but I don't know what the differences in the trim levels are, it seems the "window vans" are more common in the tradesman/sportsmans. basically it either has lots of windows or almost none

In regards to the engine RPM's:
The automatics don't have overdrive and the 3-speed manuals are pretty low geared as well. Couple that with the fact that the rear gearing tends to be in the 3.55 range and your looking at 2500/3000 rpm or so at 55 mph. Thats higher than what you are used to with modern cars.

For example, my van with a 3-speed and 2.94 rear gears turns 2700 rpms at 55mph. My 2004 Tundra, with overdrive off, turns 2500rpm at 55 mph, it turns 1600 rpm with overdrive enabled at the same speed. I "think" the autos in the vans tend to turn lower rpms than the manuals, I suspect due to different gearing internally.

It's not so much the engine size that determines top speed as it is the rpm's. My van runs great, but it's the original 45 year old motor so I try and baby it and keep it at 2500/3000 rpm and no higher (no sense temping fate).

The big thing is to try and educate yourself before you buy so you don't pay too much for what you are getting.

I *will* eventually have a second van and it will be an automatic 108 window van (or a 108 camper).

Thanks, Michael. Great info. Exactly what I was looking for. Can you further educate me on the meaning of the numbers as far as the gear ratios are concerned. What does the "2" and ".94" mean? Great photos of your van's rehab.

I've heard that the slant six was a bullet proof engine. Do you feel the others are as equally reliable?

This will likely see most of it's duty around town, so going 65 isn't important, but it would be nice. I want this to be something I can use reguarly to haul stuff. The shorter length would suffice.

Yep. like donnivan said, it's compariable to a 10-speed bike.
A deep (higher number) gear like a 3.55 or 3.91 is like a bike in low gear.
Easy to start off, good on a steep hill, but limits going fast.
A tall (lower number) gear like a 2.94 is like a bike in high gear.
A bit of a struggle to get going, murder on a hill, but much better top speed.
Don't forget that tire diameter is part of the equation. A short tire (25" tall) will lower the ratio, a taller tire (29" tall) will shift the gearing higher. This will also affect the speedometer.
Here is a calculator so you can try different tire sizes:
http://www.csgnetwork.com/speedocalibcalc.html

As far as transmission gearing, both the auto and the manual have a top gear (Drive or 3rd) of 1:1.

I don't have my manual handy, so this is what I found on the web.
727 automatic = 2.45 1st, 1.45 2nd, 1.00 3rd.
A230 manual = 3.02 1st, 1.76 2nd, 1.00 3rd.

One way to learn more about the A100 series vans is to purchase the original sales catalogs. These can be found on ebay or at a Auto literature dealer.

The vans are divided into 3 groups. The work van with or without a multiple of window and door options. The pickups and the wagon. The wagon was the term they used for the people carrying vans also known as the Sportsman Van.

I am restoring my Dads Custom Sportsman van that he purchased new in 1966. I was amazed at the information I learned by purchasing A100 literature.

There is the A100 (90" wheelbase) and the A108 (108" wheelbase). They come in several different kinds-
Pickup
Tradesman (generally used for conversions or as a panel van)
Sportsman (window van, two bench seats, not very fancy)
Custom Sportsman (window van, two bench seats, VERY FANCY! It has vinyl interior panels, chrome dash trim, exterior wrap around chrome trim, etc.)

Mine is a Custom Sportsman, originally fully-loaded! They are very nice if you are able to restore em, but parts are hard to find.