by ,,,,,,,,ground that alleged green wire and I bet the TEMP/PRESS light on the dash comes on,,,,,,,,,
+3
Twinpilot001
donivan65
Farmer
7 posters
Balancer/pulley problem
donivan65- Governor
- Number of posts : 12245
Location : San Diego, California
Registration date : 2008-05-12
Farmer- Number of posts : 67
Location : Randolph, Tn
Registration date : 2010-12-27
Bingo!! The green wire grounded turned on the temp/press lite on the dash. Cool! The spare engine I got has the oil switch screwed into the block where my gauge oil line is. Do you see any problem with putting a TEE there so I can have my dash lite also. Is it a 1/8" pipe thread? OK, I have a temp gauge but no temp switch. The temp gauge is plumbed into the t-housing below the t-stat. I have a plug in the top on the t-stat cover not being used. Can I take the two terminal temp switch off my spare engine and put it in there (looks like same thread size)? Would I splice it into this green wire with the oil switch, the other terminal to ground?? It'd be great have the idiot lites working. If I'm being a PITA let me know.
donivan65- Governor
- Number of posts : 12245
Location : San Diego, California
Registration date : 2008-05-12
,,,,,,,,,,sure am glad that the wiring in your van didn't burn up and set your van on fire when you grounded a wire you just found laying around,,,,,,,
You can put a 1/8" pipe thread T in that oil port by the dipstick and run a light and gauge. And that wire normally just goes to the temp sender in the head, in front of the carb. And those 2 sending units just ground out and put that TEMP/PRESS light on if you lose oil pressure or the engine overheats. Now the Temp is a little more complicated,,,,,you got 3 different types of gauges,,,,,,a manual that has a copper tube that has the sending unit built onto it, then you got the light, that comes on ONLY AFTER the engine overheats, and then you got the normal gauge that reads degrees. So the idiot lights are really sending switches,,,,,the REAL GAUGES are sending units and you don't want to mix them up. So you need a matching set of Gauge/Sender for it to work right. And as for being a pain,,,,,,,,this site would go down the drain if we did not have people ask questions, answer questions or share information,,,,,,,,never worry about asking too many questions,,,,,,,,,,I, myself, don't come here to just to say Hi, I come here for the questions,,,,,,even if they are Ford, Dodge or Corvair ones....
You can put a 1/8" pipe thread T in that oil port by the dipstick and run a light and gauge. And that wire normally just goes to the temp sender in the head, in front of the carb. And those 2 sending units just ground out and put that TEMP/PRESS light on if you lose oil pressure or the engine overheats. Now the Temp is a little more complicated,,,,,you got 3 different types of gauges,,,,,,a manual that has a copper tube that has the sending unit built onto it, then you got the light, that comes on ONLY AFTER the engine overheats, and then you got the normal gauge that reads degrees. So the idiot lights are really sending switches,,,,,the REAL GAUGES are sending units and you don't want to mix them up. So you need a matching set of Gauge/Sender for it to work right. And as for being a pain,,,,,,,,this site would go down the drain if we did not have people ask questions, answer questions or share information,,,,,,,,never worry about asking too many questions,,,,,,,,,,I, myself, don't come here to just to say Hi, I come here for the questions,,,,,,even if they are Ford, Dodge or Corvair ones....
Farmer- Number of posts : 67
Location : Randolph, Tn
Registration date : 2010-12-27
Donivan, would you have a picture of a stock temp switch and it's wiring. The one I have has two posts and I am not sure how to wire it. I do have the manual gauge with the little copper tube sending unit that feeds it hooked up and working. Also, It was mentioned putting a "fusible link" in the harness to protect the fuse panel and the ignition switch, where would this be installed and what kind? Thanks again!
donivan65- Governor
- Number of posts : 12245
Location : San Diego, California
Registration date : 2008-05-12
That 2 terminal one is for emissions,,,,,,to control the EGR or vacuum advance,,,,,,,,when your van was new, it came with this 1 terminal Temperature sending switch for the dash light, (click on the picture),,,,,it just grounds out WHEN the engine overheats,,,,,,,it's brother, the oil sending switch, does the same thing, grounds out WHEN there is no oil pressure,,,,,,AND,,,,,since they do the same job to the same light on the dash, they are hooked together in that connector by the carb. On the Fusible link,,,,,,if you look on the starter solenoid and find the small wire hooked to the big Positive battery cable,,,,that is the main feed wire to the van,,,,,,always on,,,,,,,,goes to the horn relay where the voltage regulator, alternator and fuse box hook up to it. Thats not good,,,,,,no protection, WHEN,,,,,,not IF,,,,,,one of those wires ground out on metal. So put a fusible link in that wire at the solenoid and it will burn out instead of your van when those wires short out.
donivan65- Governor
- Number of posts : 12245
Location : San Diego, California
Registration date : 2008-05-12
Farmer- Number of posts : 67
Location : Randolph, Tn
Registration date : 2010-12-27
Thanks for the help Donivan. I've installed the fusible link and the elec dist. I still have to do some tweaking on the carb again but the installation was pretty simple.
hywaychild- Number of posts : 389
Location : oxford,arkansas
Registration date : 2008-05-27
I bought a brand new one the other day at parts city for 58 bucks . I have 2 or 3 old ones but i didn't like the way they looked . felt safer with a new one ..good luck
