poing gap adjustment

anybody knows what the timing, the poing gap and the enything else that im missing in changing rotor, condensor, dist cap,
a friend knows how to do it, he is going to teach me, but i dont have the measurements with me...
i have a 200 in my van.

in other words, what information do i need to have ready?

thanks in advance..

This is what I set my 200 at

piont gap----.025

timing (manual )-------- 6°
timing (auto)------------ 12°

idle--------- 575-600 rpm
idle(auto)-- 500-525

hope this helps
mike

Make sure to put a pencil lead sized smear of points lube on the cam too.
once the engine turns, it will deposit on the lobes of the cam and the rubbing block of the points. Without it, you will be doing the job again shortly.

I always tell everyone, and also, will ONLY use a DWELL meter, its really a cheap investment, and also has the voltage tester in it at the same time. You will never get the points EXACTLY DEAD ON, using feeler gauge, its not going to happen before you pull out all your hair.
A DWELL meter sets it dead nuts, no guessing, did I do it too tight, or too loose, did I REALLY get it right???? If the DWELL IS OFF,, everything else is off,,, simple as that. The meter gives you and average of things like distributor cam lobe wear, bushing and bearing condtions, etc,, you will not regret the $50 bucks or so..

In regards to timing??? I have no idea WHERE my timing light went too???? never use it unless some a rat motor. Point is,, old motors have worn out timing chains,, I set the "DWELL" firstly,, get the thing running, and then ADVANCE it at a high idle until I can JUST hear some irregularities in the running, and then back the dizzy back a little, shut it down. Then re-start it, and if it turns over hard, that means you have it just a little bit too much advanced still. Back it down a tad again, and when don correctly, you should be able to just touch the key and fire like a baby. Doing it this way,, gets the advance springs and weiights up at full advance at a high rpm, so that means its adjusted dead nuts on for full advance, and perfect for no advance starting.
Takes in account for worn out timing chains and so on.. Works great for me for a LONG TIME..
Vic,,, where is my darned timing light anyways???

1st off...
Idont have a dwell meter...YET
Im looking for a timing mark....where is it????

2nd.....
Oldskool.....
Can you supply steps and reading for using the dwellmeter?
That would much appreciated
John

Thought you had an experienced friend coming over....
1. Do not warm engine first. Plugs are hard to change when hot!
2. Number, then remove the spark plug wires from the plugs. A slight twisting then pulling motion from the boots will be better thyan a hard yank on the wires!
3. Remove the plugs, laying them out in order. Compare them to each other for color and wear. You can search online for plug reading.
4. Note where # 1 plug wire goes into the dist. cap. If any come out, you can install them in the right order. The firing order is 1-5-3-6-2-4 for 6s, 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 for V8s. 1 is the front cylinder. V8 is 1-3-5-7 on the driver's side. The firing order will follow around the cap. Take your finger and point to the end of the vacuum advance. Now draw from there down the length of the advance and around the dist. That is the rotation.
5. Remove the Dist. cap. Chevy's have a quarter turn screw. Press down a bit and then turn counterclockwise a quarter turn.
6. Inspect the inside and outside of the cap. Look for any cracks or carbon tracking. It will look like a pencil line (flat black).
7. Before removing the rotor, twist it. It should twist and snap back. If not, the advance weights need to be checked and serviced.
8. Remove the rotor. Note that one side has a round hole, the other has a square one. The rotor has identical pegs. Do not try to force it on wrong!
9. Note the advance weights and springs. If rusty, remove them and clean them up. Apply a very light coating of lube to them to prevent rust. Reinstall.
10. Remove the points and condenser. I loosen the screws, then remove with a screwstarter. This keeps from dropping the small screws into the dist. and making a lot more work. You can also use a magnet, but installation is a lot easier with the right tool. On V8s, the point screws do not need to be removed completely.
11. Wipe down the breaker plate and shaft lobes. Inspect the wire that comes from the coil to the points. Replace if damaged.

12. Gather new parts and compare to old. Make sure they match.
13. Install condenser.
14. Apply a thin coat of point lube to the cam and a small amount to the point rubbing block. Connect and tighten the wires now or after the points are installed. Make sure they are not tilted and can touch the breaker plate.
15. Install the points. They slide in then drop. Tighten the screws to make sure the points are seated.
16. If the dist. cap has a window, you can assemble the rest and adjust dwell if you have the special tool. Since you do not have a dwell meter, I'll assume you do not.
17. To adjust the dwell, connect the dwell meter to the coil where the wire connects that goes to the dist. (negative side) and a good ground. Set the dial to the proper cylinder count.
18. Remove the coil wire from the center of the dist. cap and set it so it touches the engine ( ground). This will prevent harming the coil and lots of sparks.
19. While watching the meter, crank the engine. With the plugs out, it will spin quickly and blow air out each plug hole.
20. If the dwell is correct (~37 degrees for 6, ~30 degrees V8), no adjustment is needed. Install remaining dist. components. Note that the dist. cap has a bump at the edge that fits a notch in the dist. body. The cap screws need to be pressed down fairly hard before turning.
21. If adjustment is needed, go to step 22 (6) or 23 (V8).
22. Loosen screw and put screwdriver in hole at edge of point and in breaker plate. Twist very slightly in (less dwell) or out (more dwell). Recheck with dwel meter. Tighten screws when done. Install parts.
23. V8s have and adjustment screw built in. It takes an allen screw and should be slotted for a screwdriver too. Turn the screw to adjust the dwell. Install parts.
24. Check spark plugs for gap and make sure they are the same as those removed. Install them.
25. Connect plug wires and coil wire.
26. Start engine.

thanks Rod, Just needed the dwell setting procedures.....after the distributer rebuild

Hey, I didn't go as in-depth as this guy (came up on Chevy dwell search)
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/setting-points-sb-chevy-28120.html

so what do if there are no timing marks or tab, just need this 170 to last untill the 200 is rebuilt

i'll ck that tommorow. thanks
coulnt find the tab so didnt look for the notch

Will post the Dwell meter I use, have had it for years, it also, is a volt meter at the same time, so I use it all the time,, makes life with it way too easy,,
Basically, use it as posted previous. One lead to ground, one lead to Dissy side of coil,, Pull the cap, Loosen the screw, re tighten just enough to hold the plate still but so that you can still move it. Crank the motor over and read it,,use your flat bladed screw driver to adjust the reading till you get what it is called for, tighten the screw, put the cap back on and RE-READ it, as it sometimes will be off from what you have set it at,, if so??? re adjust as just said, but add or subtract the running reading from what you have set it at, not real hard to get it DEAD NUTS,,,lol
vic

Dratzzz, would tell you where they are sept I can't find where I put em..
vic

Sorry, I saw a Chevy in the avatar for the Dwell meter question and ran with it.
The Ford screws have to come all the way out, so a screw starter is good money.
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/screw-starters/screwdrivers-and-nutdrivers/hand-tools/ecatalog/N-98l?op=search

BTW, Ford's breaker plate is notorious for wear and due to the offset pivot for the vacuum advance, there is often a difference between cranking dwell and running dwell.

For any missing a timing pointer as said, timing can be adjusted by vacuum. Get it warm and then connect a vacuum gauge to manifold vacuum. Leave the hose connected to the dist. Loosen the hold down and twist the dist. to get highest vacuum. Then retard the dist. to drop the vacuum 2" (example; 19" retard to 17"). Drive it and see if it pings. If so, retard more. If not, advance some and retest. If the engine is tired or burns oil, do not advance, since it can "silently ping" or detonate at low levels and still cause damage without being heard. If possible, the test drive loop should have a steep hill (heavy load).