Brake line fittings???

m1dadio wrote:Brake system designers and engineers say to use the smallest lines you can get away with. In automotive that would be 3/16". If you look into the line conections on you master cyliners and differential valves you will see the port is not larger then 3/16 regardless of the nut size. Larger then nessesary lines are heavier, harded to manufacture, but most of all the fluid "movment" within them is reduced. Meaning the amount of action taking place in a larger line for any given system is less. This results in stagnation of the fluid, Since DOT 3 and simular fluids are "hydroscopic" in nature, they tend to develope sludge and cause internal corrosion in such areas. Especially if they are subject to a heat sorce, so avoid having your lines close to hot exhaust if you can, and change the brakes fluid every two years, more often in wet environments.

M1D

donivan65 wrote:Sure is a lot of bleeder problems going on,,,,,,I think you will have a hard time blleeding a new or empty brake system by pumping the brake pedal,,,,,even if you use a vacuum pump,,,,like if you are doing the LR wheel,,,,,it sure is easier for the pump to suck air through the seal on the RRwheel rather than going all the way up to the master cylinder for fluid,,,,,but I think doing all 4 AT THE SAME TIME works best,,,,,and by pressure, not vacuum,,,,,thats why I am liking these check valve bleeders,,,,you crack them open and pump the pedal,,,,,everything is pressurized equally,,,,they worked really good on the last van we did. So think about it on your way to buying another gallon of brake fluid,,,,,,,