a108's been sitting for a while. Engine would cranck but won't fire.

Hi. I had some problems with the fuel pump. Thanks to all for the helpful inputs, I was able to fix it.
I'm having trouble running the car. The engine, 318, would cranck, but won't turnover.
I've replaced all the sparks, checked the distributer gets sparks and the spark connections seem fine. It has been sitting for almost a year now. I tried spraying the carbs with some fuel spray. Still won't turn over. I believe the carbs gets fuel and the fuel lines are OK. Any inputs to help get the van to run?
Below I'm attaching a pic of the old sparks and a video of the carbs squirting fuel when I push the throttle, if they may help diagnose the situation better.
old sparks: https://i.imgur.com/91yyb5C.jpg , https://i.imgur.com/elX98OW.jpg
Carbs vid: ...uploading ATM. Will post soon.

Ok.

So you have established that your are getting fuel into the carb so we'll move that down the list.

When you say "wont turn over" do you mean it turns over via the starter but isn't "firing", i.e trying to sputter to life or start?

You said the distributor gets spark, does that spark make it to the plugs? If you have fuel and spark, it should at least stumble/sputter and try to start.

Leave it alone for a bit (or after you haven't been messing with it in case its flooded) and spray a single squirt of starting fluid into the carb, press the gas pedal to the floor once to engage the choke, then turn the key. if it is getting spark to the plugs it should sputter or start, at least for a few seconds.

Are you sure there isn't any water in the fuel tank from condensation? You can pump a little fuel off into a glass and hold it up to the light, if there's water in it you'll see water bubbles in the gas.

If you have fuel in the carb, new points/condensor, plugs/wires, it should fire.

Heres my bet!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! remove the distributor cap--- then rotor-- the get a womans small nail file--- or sand paper -fine grit only!! carefully open the points set - sand the points a little -not much!! reinstall rotor & cap & then try & start it!! if that works replace points , condenser cap & rotor!!=ALL!!!!!!!!!!

Put the timing mark on 0 and see if the rotor points to # 1 spark plug wire,,,,,,rotate the pulley one more turn if the rotor is 180 degrees out,,,,,,,,,,,,,,if the rotor wont point to #1 spark plug wire when the pulley is on 0, the timing chain has slipped,,,,,,do you have the wires in the cap in the right place? Is the timing set correctly?

Now that you mentioned timing, I don't know much about it. I was doing some research on timing, and I realized that when I was checking the distributor and changing the sparks, I wasn't keeping track of which cable goes where. Is there a diagram to follow or a way to find out which spark's connection goes to where?

Also, what I meant is the engine sounds like it wants to start but never does "fire" or even stay on for a sec. It would just crank and sputter to life or start, but as soon as I let go of the key in the ignition switch, it would be quite dead. It doesn't actually fire. I'll try to shoot a vis of the situation tomorrow if that may help.

The positive side of the coil needs 2 different voltages to start and run the engine,,,,,,the starter sends 12 volts to the coil to help start the engine, then as soon as it starts and you let go of the key, the ignition switch sends 6 volts through the ballast resistor to keep the engine running,,,,,so how about taking a jumper wire and put 12 volts to the positive side of the coil just for a test and see if the engine keeps running,,,,,,

Ive check so using a multimeter. But im not going past the 12v to 6v after i let go of the key.
How does the cylinders go in order. Im assuming the front of the engine is where the timing chain is, towards the front of the van, and the back is where it connects to the transmission, towards the back of the van. Do they go odds front to back 1,3,5,7 on the left (DRIVER) side, and evens on the passanger side?
Do they follow this diagram? http://image.cpsimg.com/sites/carparts-mc/assets/classroom/images/firingorder.gif
My distributor cap doesn't have any numbers on it.

FezFro wrote:Now that you mentioned timing, I don't know much about it. I was doing some research on timing, and I realized that when I was checking the distributor and changing the sparks, I wasn't keeping track of which cable goes where. Is there a diagram to follow or a way to find out which spark's connection goes to where?

Also, what I meant is the engine sounds like it wants to start but never does "fire" or even stay on for a sec. It would just crank and sputter to life or start, but as soon as I let go of the key in the ignition switch, it would be quite dead. It doesn't actually fire. I'll try to shoot a vis of the situation tomorrow if that may help.

well yeah that could be a problem.

Get the A100/108 service manual from here. Check the section "specifications", page 7, for the firing order and spark plug wire setup.

Make sure there is:
1) fuel in the carb
2) new or verified good plug wires, plugs, dist cap and rotor, points, condenser and ballast resistor. Wouldn't hurt to check the coil for proper voltage as well.
3) make sure the distributor is tight in the hole and hasn't turned out of timing spec, if it has you'll have to address that as well.

All this isn't hard stuff it just takes a start to finish methodical approach, your problem could be one or more of the things listed above since the vehicle has been sitting.

Mine sat for three years and I had to go top to bottom on it to get it going again.

So I've checked the whole ignition systemand tried different parts. Still won't run.
I've checked that the engine is getting fuel and air.
So these two are crossed out as possible problems.
My last thought is compression. I'm thinking there might be a leak somewhere in the engine's compression process. I've read online that if you try to start the engine while holding your hand over the air intake, you should feel some kind of a suction. I tried so, it felt like there was some suction. But how strong of a suction tells me how healthy is the compression in the engine?
I've been spending a lot of time on the van, that I start to have these dreams about me working on the van. Haha. Reminds me of one semester when I had 2 math calc classes and physics. Except those were more like nightmares haha.
Any input would be appreciated. Thanks friends.

OK as im sensing you dont have a lot of experience as a mechanic (nothing wrong with that!!) ill try & lead you toward a few things here!!- get a compression gague - auto zone has tools like this u can borrow & use & return -free- deposit required! = then once u have the tester- remove all spark plugs!! Block open the carb (or) have a buddy hold down the accelerator pedal!!= check compression on EACH!! cylinder -write the reading down!! --- After all are done - what readings did u get?? =post here-.. after thats done = get a simple 12 volt test lite-- turn key on== check to se that u have the test light= lighted at the +++ side of the coil whan it is cranking- still with spark plugs removed!! do u?? post here after that test also. After that test== do you have furl squirting down inside the carb when the accelerator is pushed to floor?? Post results again here on that test. Now after results are posted- install all spark plugs . key OFF!= wait for us to see wht u need to do next!! wait!! wont be long after u
've posted the results here.!! Were here tohelp u. Ill aslo ask do u have a point type dudtributor? o0r electronic? Also please charge the battery making sure the key is off & removed fron van Thanx waiting here !!

Twinpilot001 wrote:OK  as im sensing you dont have a lot of experience as a mechanic (nothing wrong with that!!) ill try & lead you toward a few things here!!-  get a compression gague - auto zone has tools like this u can borrow & use & return -free- deposit required!  = then once u have the tester- remove all spark plugs!! Block open the carb (or) have a buddy hold down the  accelerator pedal!!= check compression on EACH!! cylinder -write the reading down!! --- After all are done - what readings did u get?? =post here-.. after thats done = get a simple 12 volt test lite-- turn key on== check to se that u have    the test light= lighted  at the +++ side of the coil whan it is cranking- still with spark plugs removed!! do u?? post here after that test also. After that test== do you have furl squirting down inside the carb when the accelerator is pushed to floor?? Post results again here on that test. Now after results are posted- install all spark plugs . key OFF!= wait for us  to see wht u need to do next!! wait!! wont be long after u
've posted the results here.!! Were here tohelp u. Ill aslo ask do u have a point type dudtributor?  o0r electronic?  Also please charge the battery making sure  the key is off & removed fron van Thanx waiting here !!

You are correct sir. My area of expertise lies mainly between simple mechanics and electronics and microcontrollers and code developing. So I may ask some questions that seems simple to some, but gotta start somewhere (right?).
Anyway, I went to autozone and got a compression tester. I took all the spark plugs out and removed sparks connections. I also disconnected the ignition coil, as mentioned in the instructions that came with the tester. Then, I screwed in the com tester. connected the battery (new batt, btw). And the engine won't make a sound. I'm guessing the starter needs to be powered somehow, but I'm not sure on how to approach this part. (?)
I made sure the gas pedal is floored. and the fuel pump is on. (?)
I did some research and found that it's the ratio between the cylinders' compressions that determines whether or not the engine is healthy, mechanically speaking.
thank you for the fast response.

FezFro wrote:Now that you mentioned timing, I don't know much about it. I was doing some research on timing, and I realized that when I was checking the distributor and changing the sparks, I wasn't keeping track of which cable goes where.

This tells me that you might have put the leads in wrong order. Thus even the timing doesn't matter. I'd suggest you to hook up with someone in your area who knows how to set the timing and the correct firing order. If you have no real idea and experience in this then you're better off paying hundred bucks to someone making things right in 30 mins with a timing light.

change the ballast resistor on the back of the dog house
cost about $5.00 at the parts store

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/360958891232?lpid=82&chn=ps

Lurking here, I am having the same problem, and was curious, Does the Ballast Resistor mount on top of the metal plate of the Starter Solonoid or under it, or does it matter?

I changed the starter solonoid today adn now I cant start my van, but it cranks just fine, just wont fire..

the ballest resistor mounts on the back of the dog house