E100 Automatic Shifter/Column help

Hi All!

I have a 1961 E100 with a 1981 200 and C-4 already installed.

I need help with the column shifter set up.

Currently the manual shifter is linked to work (sort of) but I really need an easier to use stock type set up so my wife can drive it .

So what I need is a column, linkage and shift lever that can work for my set up. I have a good working factory turn signal switch (that I just installed).

I found a good used one from a junk yard for $300, but they do not have the linkage...and I think the price may be a little high.

Please let me know if any of you can help. I tried to PM  Vic (OldSkool) because it looks like that's a good source, but the site won't let me PM for 7 days?

Never fear, old skool is the man on this subject and more, he will reply when he see this post...He also is a busy man.. but he will get to you..if you do a search on old skool there is older post on this topic if that helps, search under his name

Thnx Jadestem,,,,,  I dont recall any PM's regarding this but then again,, there is an easy 100 of them with flags on them....  krud,,,bad enough one arm but also one person,,,,, LOL
  The automatic steering columns were made from the manual steering column basic bowl and welded seam tube and all use either turn signal units. Meaning that the 67 E flasher turn signal unit will fit into any steering column from 61 to 74 with a slot added for the button and the turn lever hole enlarged.
  The metal shift plate is plug welded to the underside of the bowl and the hood is the same from 64 to 74.  Three distinct plastic shift indicator plates the less desired early shift pattern with the GREEN DOT shift indicator plate, the 65 to 67 shift indicator plate and the 68 to 74 shift indicator plate of which I make the 1st two.  The 68 to 74 is very close but the script at a straighter angle than ours.
   The shift tube is different with a dedicated shift arm that is welded in a specific location on it and a shift arm receiver that is furnace brazed on it also. I use the GENII shift tube only and cut it to use as the base in order to make one.  The lower shift arm is impossible to bend and get correct as the neutral adjustment hole is very delicate. In order to make the shift arms EXACTLY as stock I actually weld three pieces together in a special jig fixture as I have tried for years to make a bending fixture that would work.
  Also of course all the shift arms and parts to need to be welded in the correct spot or they will not work correctly.  One major defect in the stock steering column is the plastic bushing in the lower aluminum mounting bracket as it gums up and rust  gets in there as well as it locking up or being worn out. Also, the upper metal shift plate gets worn out from the tang on the shifter handle and also the 64 to 66 shift handles are different and all are worn out also.
 I make a new upgraded automatic steering column from a persons manual steering column by welding a later shift plate thats not worn out, a later type shift handle that is better with a weaker spring tension and bore out the aluminum mounting bracket for added clearance and then install a bronze bearing in the lower support that gives the unit a very smooth shift better than OEM.
  I gave up painting final color as it was very time consuming and could not charge for my time, so they now come sandblasted and epoxy primered in exchange with no shift plate or E flasher modifications. In the past I added the e flasher option for free but it does take time to mill and get it perfect as well as enlarging the turn lever hole. Its right on the edge and can be botched very easily if you dont know what you are doing...
 I do them on an exchange basis as I cannot keep up with everything well enough to simply have them in stock,, sorry. Right now about three weeks back logged.
 I have a stack of stock shifting rods and kick down rods as well but cumbersome to ship. I also make a shift rod TO shift cable conversion that people are very happy with. 

Bill,,,,, While on the subject,,, the Econoline shifter in the transmission itself is different than the one you have in your transmisison now as its designed to shift differently than ours.  Also, you will  have a tail stock that is very long and your drive shaft will be very short making your u joint alignment more difficult,, especially as you have no hump in the back of your doghouse for bell housing clearance. If you used a cross member to support the transmission you can switch the tail stock and use a longer drive shaft if you end up with vibrations. I have them as well as the correct shifter for your transmission if you want  to use the stock shift rod.

  ALSO,,,, the 61 to 67 steering box is identical,, HOWEVER it is mounted at a different angle in the 61 to 64's THAN the 65 to 67's.  SO, you cannot use a 65 to 67 in an early unless you drill and elongate the steering box holes in the frame in order to change the steering box angle itself to match.. You CAN interchange any 61 to 64 with itself as long as you use the matching mounting bracket for it.
vic  

vlafountaine@socal.rr.com 

This truck is something I picked up second hand from a guy that bought it from another guy that started this conversion and never completed it. When I got it it had so many hilly billy engineered problems it took quite a while to make it drive.

So.....now that I finally have had it running and driving it is a daily driver shop truck.

I'm looking for the cheapest way out....I do not care about sand blasting and primer even, just that it works! In fact the rougher looking the better....I'm into function not beauty!

In regards to the indicator, I want the cheapest one! As long as it indicates what gear it is in I do not care what it looks like, in fact an old faded one would be preferred! Right now the driver has to count the clicks to know where he is, and there is some slack in the linkage that makes it tough occasionally.

I found a NOS turn signal switch so I am good there (it was actually a factory defect that needed to be rewired but it works, so I do not need a new one.) I do want or need an e flasher.

The tail shaft housing I have is about 12" long, and my drive shaft is 16" center to center on the u-joints. I plan on adding a 9" rear axle and an AOD eventually, so the shaft will have to go even shorter.

It has a cross member for the transmission, but the bell housing is touching the floor. I was considering either modifying the floor (big hammer) or dropping the engine a little lower. It seems like about a 1/2" will do it. There is no drive train vibration, so I am good there.

For now I will be using the existing transmission and rear axle, I have more important issues to deal with first. Since this truck is "in service" I will be doing things in stages to avoid long down times.

For now I guess I will contact you via email and start looking for a "core" column to send you.

Thanks!

I used a B&m shiter with my 302. Just mounted it next to the dog house. Pretty cheap and easy.

Donn wrote:I used a B&m shiter with my 302. Just mounted it next to the dog house. Pretty cheap and easy.

I considered that, but the column shift seems more user friendly.

Thanks for letting me know.

What did you go for in the end?

I bought a column assembly from Old Skool. It worked out great.

My truck had a C4 tranny installed when I purchased it w/ the shift on the column.

It feels kind of sloppy and the shifter can be pulled upward which disengages it.

Thanks for any suggestions.....

Old schools looks the best solution but it's not far off $1000 by the time I've paid shipping and import tax.

I ended up using B&M ford C4 parts on my trans and a random bracket to connect a long B&M style cable the the manual column shift arm. Although there is no neutral cutout, gear indicator or anyway of stopping you throwing it into park it works quite well and operates the correct way.

There is play in it atm but I'll work on that (possibly the rubber damper in the shifter arm) and add some kind of indicator too.


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Well here we to again,,, not going to waste time re explaining it all over again,, but I BUNK to whoever said it was $1,000 by the time,,, BALONEY!!!!!!!!!
I charge $250 to take a manual and convert it over to automatic, and no such thing as a 61/62 type column in automatic. Normally freight is about $20 dollars and so perhaps if you live on the moon you may get the price up to that $1,000 you quoted,,,, I CALL BALONEY and aggravating to hear that comment!!!!!!!!!!!! $250 plus freight adds up to $270,,,,,,, SO EXPLAIN YOURSELF!!!!!!!!!!
I also make a shift rod to shift cable conversion that MANY people are using and gets rid of all the slop you are talking about.
In regards to cheap,,, I update to a later shift handle and if you want cheap,,,, I am the wrong person,, I DON'T DO MICKEY MOUSE,,,,,,,
I have short solid output yoke tail stocks for the donut mount, the 65/66 type mount and the under transmission type short tail stock in stock,,, LOL
Vic,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,sick of baloney!!!!!!!!!

BTW: just noticing,,,, that is a 3spd column that someone has used but whoever did it sounds like they didnt account for the slop thats inherientely in them!!!!!!!! The adapter is a very close copy of my adapter which has no slop in the bushing and so the slop is not in it but in the manual steering column itself.
Vic,,,, later,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

Hey vic, that was me! Because I live in England I can't exchange so you need to charge me for the core exchange which with all the other bits comes in at $550 to ship to england is going to be around $200 so $750 plus I will pay uk customs at least $150 plus handling fee so near $1000.

If I were in the USA I'd snap yours up tomorrow as I said above it is definitely the best solution around!

Ok,,,,,,,,,,, I am so tired of know all the baloney,,, my apologies,, you have no idea of how in considerate people can be.   Your version looking like you used my setup as a guide???
 Anyways,,, you will ALWAYS get some slop as the shifting pin in the shift tube itself is ALWAYS WORN and the reason why I weld on a complete new end piece to it. The MAX you can go oversize on that pin is .010 and at that causes interference and binding when it engages each gear shifters slots. IF YOU WANT to tighten that up and continue to use that column,,, I would suggest that you silver solder or weld it so that it can no longer move at all. That will stop any play that is there and help firm up the shifting.  
 In regards to causing and accident if it doesnt lock in park or poping in or out of gear,, that is the job of the automatic steering columns plate that is welded to the underside of the steering column bowl and the detents in it.  I use a late model shifter as the 64 to 66 shift handles are much weaker and wear out both the detents on the shifter as well as the plate detents.
 You will have to use your imagination as you did when you copied the rest of it to make sure it cannot accidently pop out of park and run someone over????????????????  
Vic,,,    OLDSKOOL

Thanks Vic, no not knocking yours at all genuinely it is the best and I still plan on buying one eventually.

Thanks for the information about the slop, I may just weld that up until I can afford one from you, the previous owner connected a steel tube from that arm to the transmission which didn't really work, I just figured this method out using bits I had spare.

It's a real shame shipping is so expensive.

Indeed, and I avoid ordering parts from the US as much as I can because customs systematically adds a 1/3 to the total cost...