Clutch Equalizing Bracket broke

So I'm 24 hours into my Falcon ownership and I'm loving it. With that said....I ran into some trouble. I was driving back from the AAA registering the ride, to when I'm shifting and then the clutch pedal falls to the floor. At first i thought it was stuck, so I try to lift it up w/my toe, but to no avail.

By the grace of God this happens 100 yards away from my friend's industrial shop, so I coast on in. Anywho, I get under the vehicle and the bar which moves back & forth w/the clutch connects to this bracket... & from there goes into the transmission. Anywho this part sheered off... My buddy said it was more than likely the Clutch Equalizing Bracket (CEB). I hope online and most of everything i see is the mirror image of what I need

I get up this morning and start working the pivoting action of the clutch bar (the bar that moved forward & back that's connect to the clutch) and then I notice that the other end of the bar started coming detached from the its joint.... so I realized that this problem need to be addressed as well... so i gently slid the bar from its joint (isn't there suppose to be some sort of brace or something to prevent it from sliding off?) As I pull off the bar these two collars/couplings fall to the ground. They fell from a spherical looking stud. I'm assuming a similar spherical stud is what broke off the equalizing bracket

This also may be superfluous, but the Inner diameter of the Bar/Tube is 0.750in & outer is 1.00

I don't know how to upload pics from my computer

Blue, It has been posted by Old Skool Vic on how to upgrade this part. LA is a problem, out in the "country" You can use the starter to start in 1st gear and with practice you can shift through the gears without using the clutch. Double clutching, saved my butt a few times. Try not to stop till you get home.

I think this is the link that scarlin was referring to:[url=shifter rods - SHIFTER PARTS]shifter rods - SHIFTER PARTS[/url]

Doing a kit for customer right now.. I make a new rod that goes from the back to the front using 5/16th steel rod. The stock one has been grinding itself apart for 50 years.
I tap 5/6th fine threads on each end and then use 5/16th Hyme joint aircraft bearing ends. The clutch pedal itself has a hole in it that the bent end of the rod goes through, so I weld a 5/16th bolt into that same hole. Careful to get the shank distance correct so that there may be only 1 thread or so that goes into the bearing end. Same as any bolt in this setup as you don't want threads hitting the bearing but rather the non threaded shank only.
Anyways,, also weld in two bolts the same way on the bell crank. Knocking or drilling out the pins firstly, drilling it each end out to 5/16th and welding the two bolts in place. Note: DUH!!!!!! weld the head of the bolt head. LOL..
This way you have bearings on each end and not a flattened piece of steel to wear out and snap on you. ALSO,, I use a hyme joint on the adjuster also, so that way everything is supported by a bearing and runs nice and smooth, like it should have been done in the first place.
vic






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On the other side of the clutch equalizing bar is this

I suspect the clutch ball stud as pictured here is the same one that broke off from the equalizing bracket...as shown here
and here (the other side of the bracket)



the ball stud is 0.625in at its widest diameter & the couplings/bushings brass/copper have an OD of 0.725.

where can i obtain a new ball stud & bushings... as I lost a set on the road as the ball stud bar sheered off.from the bracket

About 40 years ago we had them in the Dorman supply boxes, I have not seen them since. I do have a pair of them here that I have saved over the years and may also have a GOOD support ball with mount. The other alternative is the later plastic setup.
NOTE: USUALLY the cross over arm where this support bearing and ball go into are wiped out. What sized motor do you have and check yours. I am not setup for answering things on VV yet,, but if you want to PM me thats fine. May take a day or so as order and email over load.
vic


vlafountaine@socal.rr.com