A100 van overheating

hello i recently purchased an a100 van...i replaced the alternator, water pump, and did a coolant flush and the van is still overheating after running for about 10 mins...any suggestions are appreciated in advance thanks

stuck thermostat just curious if u have replaced it,dave

My vote is for the radiator also. If it has been sitting for awhile with a rad hose off or something, check to see if some small rodent didnt try making a home in the top tank. BTDT.

yeah I replaced the thermostat forgot to add that. I ran a hose thru the radiator and water flowed thru the bottom. Would that mean its not clogged? I also read that a radiator cap could cause overheating but thatd be tooo easy so i no thats not it. I have been working on this van nonstop for 3 weeks got the brake system overhauled and installed an alternator this overheating thing is slowing up my pace. I will try to feel for cool spots today. also does anyone have a link to a service manual online or could send me a file? thanks

A bad radiator cap can certainly cause overheating. Does it overheat when you are driving slow around town or highway speeds. Is the bottom sheetmetal pan in place? It funnels air to the radiator and are missing on a lot of vans. Main culprit is probably the radiator though. Take it out and have a radiator shop look at it.

Consider this=??--- Do a pressure test on the system-all hooked up- usually a radiator shop/ good mechanic shop can do this. They pressureise the system @ radiator cap & tells if anything is leaking=head gasket, head, block, ect.These pressure test kits are also sold cheaply . Since the van is new to you -possible had this problem with previous owner?

The sheet metal pan came with the van. I wasn't sure on how to install it so its sitting in the rear of the van. when I get off today I will try to install it and buy a new radiator cap. I would like to adjust the timing as I have also heard that retarded timing can cause overheating. If someone has a link to a service manual itd be awesome even just the section on troubleshooting overheating. Id also like to flush the engine, i assume I would do that at the top hose on the radiator and disconnect the bottom hose from the radiator flushing any possible clogs from the motor...? If all else fails I guess I will buy a radiator.

what engine do you have?? what temp. stat did you buy, what was changed, hoses,water pump, fan and how many blades is it, The belly pan is very important, is there a overflow tank,?? if not add 1, Run a 160 stat, not 180, Any photo's of the underneath and engine bay would help,

http://www.bing.com/shopping/temp-gun-hpi74151/p/44586D2076F67DAB5001?q=temp+gun&lpq=temp%20gun&FORM=HURE if you can borrow or buy one of these guns it will help read the rad temp top and bottom. water pump and block temps, i have a 318 and needed a hivolume stat 160 degreese hi volume water pump , a overflow tank a new rad, and belly pan andstill had to block off any place air would get redirected around or under the rad i also installed a air scoop in the belly pan, this is not allways a easy fix i agree with the guys above try taking the rad to a shop and have it tested and or boiled.....also go on e-bay and buy the manual for your truck... lots of help here just ask.......

also is there a fan shroud????????????? you can buy a owners manual on e-bay for a good price....

@donivan- when I say its overheating I mean that ther guage is very close to the "H" on the guage. The radiator has not puked out coolant yet but I do not take it far enough for that to happen. I have been just testing it locally.
@ dix- just found out I have a 225 after checking the serial on the engine. I bought the stock thermostat from pep boys, replaced the water pump checked the hoses and they seemed solid and free so i did not change those, i diddnt change the fan I beleive its a five blade fan. If the stock stat isnt a 160 will get the 160 stat today. I will fig out how to install that fan shroud today too. You aren kidding...this sites awesome...and the help i received is much appreciated. ill post some pics and get this radiator tested.

Ive done a lot of the same stuff as dix accept I have a 273v8.

Try:
~a 160 thermostat first
~install the belly pan
~overflow catcher (Dorman off amazon)
~heavy duty high volume fan

Summit 17" Heavy Duty Six Bladed Fan
Part Number: SUM-G4920

Get that fan to within 1" of the radiator also -should be good-ill add years ago i always used a 160F thermostst in the texas heat - Good mechanic told me to always use a 180. The 160 always let the water flow too much & would cause overheating=needed that restriction on temps.

if you are talking a stock temp gauge and old wiring or changed wiring you could have a false reading also -i also have a 225 and run the stock thermostat not a 160 - i have not put my belly pan back on yet - have not really had temp problems and i live in a hot climate ( new orleans la) - yes timing will effect temp - oo3

A 180 STAT STAYS CLOSED TILL THE WATER TEMP HITS 180 THEN IT OPENS AND LETS WATER FLOW THRU THE BLOCK AND BACK TO THE RAD. THE RAD TRYING TO COOL THE WATER DOWN . AIR FLOW TO THE RAD IS IMPORTANT. FAN, FAN SHROUD, AND THE BELLY PAN, IF YOU LET THE WATER GO UP TO 160 THEN TRY COOLING IT DOWN OR HOLDING THAT TEMP, SEAMS BETTER TO ME THAN TRYING TO START COOLING IT DOWN STARTING @ 180.YOUR GAUGE MAY BE OFF A BIT. I DID INSTALL A NEW GAUGE ONLY TO FIND WAS RIGHT ON THE MONEY.. IF YOU DO NOT HAVE A SHROUD LET ME KNOW I MAY HAVE ONE FAIRLY CHEAP. MY GUESS A /6 SHROUD MAY BE HARD TO FIND. BEING THAT YOU HAVE A /6 I DON'T THINK YOU NEED TO GO WITH A 160 STAT. THAT ENGINE SHOULD STAY COOL , I THINK THE RAD IS YOUR PROBLEM... A GOOD TEMP GAUGE IS WIRTH THE MONEY NOT A ELECTRIC BUT MACHANICAL

I've got a 6 stock fan, spacer and shroud sitting in my garage.

I notched the bottom to clear an aluminum radiator. Then i installed an elec fan.

This is what it looks like




I think the stock slant t-stat is a 195*. I agree with DIX, starting to cool at 160 is easier that at 180-195. I also cut the guts out of a stock t-stat and it ran too cool.

bought the 160 today makes sense to start cooling at a lower temp, also went to 4 radiator shops they all cant find it at their warehouses.Ill try some more local radiator shops tomorrow.One guy told me id have to get one made. pep boys laughed at me .. i laughed at myself as well for even asking
@ slowflapper that fan looks a hell of a lot more effective than the fan i have ....I need that. can u pick that up or do u need to order that? i do have the belly pan anyone have a pic of it installed.
@Twinpilot001 to get the fan closer to the radiator i assume u just add some kind of spacer after the waterpump?

john were did you get your rad.??? looks good can you post it under the links page to help out the other guys.... this may be what eric needs. Donivan has a very good point regarding the rad cap. i'm thinking about 16 to 18 pound cap .but see what the other /6 engine guys are running... i'm sure they will chime in......

Correct on the spacer.What is ideal = have the rear fan bledes even or just outside the shroud- no more that 1/2" max= this will give max air pulling power thru the radiator/shroud. You can also try a fixed fan or thermoststic controlled fan blade.