Steering Drag Link ???

Help!! anyone know of a source for drag links or ideas on custom or aftermarket ones. Mine shet the bed. 1969 G10

Well its actually a repair of your drag link that becomes adjustable.



You get a Moog ES409L tie rod end which appearantly fits GM Van , PU, Suberbon, Blazer (1/2 and 3/4 ton) from 71-96. This is the only tie rod I have found with the correct taper pin demensions.

and the sleeve that goes with it Moog ES20004S.

you keep the best end of your Darg link and cut it off at the correct length. Turn it down if need be to the right diameter (I think its close as it is) and Dye cut an 11/16 - 18 right hand thread onto it. The tie rod is left hand thread and the sleave of course is both.

or bring it to a local machine shop.

When installed you just turn the sleeve to leghten or shorten the drag link.


Its important that your steering box be centered when you drive straight. The center has an area where the gear gets tighter in the b ox, this is to promote straight line stability. If the box gear is off to one side a bit and the truck wanders; the correction input to the steering wheel will be tighter one way and even looser the other which makes for alot of stressful highway driving. And the van will usually wander mostly to the loose side.

M1d

I was worried about this myself but will most likely go with this method. This repairs one end but not the other. I have been thinking of just taking a small piece of pipe and taping both ends. Does one end need to be left handed threads and the other right handed or is that dependent on the tie rod end you buy?

I took a different approach when I moved my front axle back 2" to get it centered in the wheel well for my bigger wheels.

They require more maintenance. But hey, This is a Gasser! Not the family truckster!

Hi Guys, Those are some great idea's. Very creative Dan.

I want to first continue my search for a new or custom one. Having a new or almost new factory one is my first choice. I dont want a cut up screwed together look. Its all about the look to me.

What if I was to take two tie rod ends, a solid rod and weld them together then grind and finish it. Would it be solid enough, what are your thoughts?

M1dadio, got a message into moog about getting a es409l possible made with right hand threads, lets keep your fingers crossed!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Bob

m1dadio, moog sent me back an email with phone number to call, which they never seem to be there. But I think I have found a pair of tie rod ends that will work please check them out and see what you think. All of the dimensions are within .002-.004 of the es409l, the only thing that is small is the tie rod side(is 5/8 not 11/16 no big deal). The tie rod numbers are Es358r and es358l, these are moog numbers. They are used on 65-70 2wd 3/4 chevy trucks. I'm going to try to call moog first part of the week and get some better dimensions. Bob, yes I'm tired of looking a tie rod charts!!!!!!!

I can imagine you are tiered of it allready, its hard work doing that kind of research asn't it.

I don't need a drag link.

I recomend you take those moog numbers to the NAPA site and look up thier demensions and decide for yourself if it is what you need.

Did you ask the moog people about a drag link replacement for the van? Maybe they have a part number for one?

m1d

m1d I tried at my local napa, they would have to special order there replacement, so order it and I own it. I'm going to call moog first of the week. Bob

Did you get a part number from your local napa guy?

M1d

Michell, I purchased a link from a second gen. and cut it- rotated 180* and welded it, then beat the hell out of it with a sledge. Didn't break, so I am good with it.

Anybody thinking of welding a drag link should check with their state's vehicle code. Michigan expressly forbids welded drag links on street driven vehicles.

(4) Notwithstanding subsection (2), a person shall not operate a motor vehicle having lift blocks between the front axle and springs, or with lift blocks that exceed 4 inches in height between the rear axle and springs in addition to those provided by the original manufacturer. Any body lift block shall be of single piece construction and shall not use more than a 3-inch spacer. Any suspension lift block shall use an alignment pin between the axle and the spring, and shall be of single piece construction. Spring shackle replacements shall not exceed the original equipment manufacture length by more than 2 inches, and coil spring spacers are prohibited. All steering components shall be geometrically arranged to function as original equipment manufacture. Welded pitman arms, drag links, and tie rods are prohibited. All parts used to modify the original suspension or height of a motor vehicle shall be factory manufactured and shall meet or exceed the original manufacturer's specifications.

This is in the section of the vehicle code pertaining to lift laws, but welded components applies to all vehicles.

Md1 Yeah napa gave there cross reference 2692175, 2692174. I can get these throught moog for about $25.00 each.

Chester I was thinking the same thing but cut in half and thread each end and use a tie rod sleeve to attach them

Vanner 68, yeah this is why I'm going through all of the work, Could just use a bar and welded a couple tie rods to it. Here in nh, they frown on welded steering parts for good reason. Thank god most of my buddies have off road rock buggies now, because when we where younger we built some scary sh%t for the street. Luckily we never killed any one.

Bob

Florida is one of the most lax states as for safty , no state vehical inspection. Some of the pick-up are lifted 12 or more inches plus way over size tires. I'm more than confident in my drage link as I was a welder for many years. The mig wire we used was all 70,000 PSI stength. As I said , I beat the daylights out of it with a sledge hamer at the splice and had no seperationin the weld. I am more than confident in the link.

chester42 wrote:Florida is one of the most lax states as for safty , no state vehical inspection. Some of the pick-up are lifted 12 or more inches plus way over size tires. I'm more than confident in my drage link as I was a welder for many years. The mig wire we used was all 70,000 PSI stength. As I said , I beat the daylights out of it with a sledge hamer at the splice and had no seperationin the weld. I am more than confident in the link.

Michigan has no safety inspections either, but if you are in an accident and the investigation uncovers a welded steering component, even if it did not fail you are in a world of legal hurt.....

Remember- lawyers run things, not common sense.

1040 on the vulchers (AKA lawers ). My splice is not detectable . Thanks for the input on state laws.

ordered a center link from rock auto earlier this year, what I received was a drag link, cost was around $30.00