VintAGE-Vans

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BRINGING IT ALL TOGETHER.... A's, G's & E's


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Nightmoves
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    how much for a 1970 "G"

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    Post by Guest Mon Dec 19, 2011 3:47 pm

    Hey Guys, i'm a usually an "a" guy, but i got an offer for a 1970 "g" van, i always liked the later chevy model, since i dont know them, and i have on this site the best experts anybody could find, hey why not ask ?,; what is the weakness of theses vans?, what should i look for? which part are the hardest to find? and assuming the van is in correct shape, with a straight six, 3 on 3 manual shift , what do you thing would be a starting and a maximum price to pay for a 1970, no window van,..i mean average price, the van was redone but look good, its been sting there for seven years? any advices will be apreciated...thanks alot
    G-Man
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    Post by G-Man Mon Dec 19, 2011 4:02 pm

    How about a picture??? The 70 model was the first to have side marker lights. Other than that they are pretty much the same as 68-69's and a price should be about the same. You living in Canada I really don't know what they go for there.
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    Post by Guest Mon Dec 19, 2011 4:56 pm

    how much for  a 1970 "G" 8316nd12
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    Post by Guest Mon Dec 19, 2011 5:02 pm

    how much for  a 1970 "G" 72706510., i spoke with the guy by email, he's asking 3000.$ cnd, it's about an hour from my place, thats the only picture i got
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Mon Dec 19, 2011 5:12 pm

    Rust is the only thing that you need to be concerned about,,,,,the less the better,,,,look at the front floors, around the windshield, bottom of doors,lower door posts, rocker panels , drip rails,,,,,and underneath it.
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    Post by Guest Mon Dec 19, 2011 5:24 pm

    how are the frams rails on these models, the same as the "a"s
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Mon Dec 19, 2011 6:37 pm



    how much for  a 1970 "G" Repai175
    Space Truckin
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    Post by Space Truckin Mon Dec 19, 2011 7:00 pm

    It boils down to how much you are willing to spend $$ What you are trying to value/create are memories which are priceless :-) Good luck
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    Post by Digz Mon Dec 19, 2011 7:08 pm

    Sitting on the bare ground in that climate for 7 years, I would definately look close at the underside. The frames are pretty much the same as the A's. They get squirrels mice and all kinds of debris in them to hold moisture.
    Nightmoves
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    Post by Nightmoves Mon Dec 19, 2011 7:22 pm

    Like the above guys said,sittin 7 yrs is a long time.Beings you already own an early,you know just about everything's going to have to be gone through.That body would have to be pretty sound startin out at 3K.Myself...I'd have to do some serious drinkin on it.
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    Post by G-Man Mon Dec 19, 2011 7:34 pm

    I know they go for higher $$$ in Canada, and from what I see look very solid, but like everyone said look it over everywhere.
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    Post by Guest Mon Dec 19, 2011 8:09 pm

    ..hope donivan didnt cut a piece of his frame just to show me....
    how about that 4.1 engine, good? and the transmission, how many models?, wich is better?...i like knowing my stuff, specialy if its interessting, its easier to make an offer.

    i'll go see the van, since they dont have major problems,i'll look for the rust(specialy the frame), and figure out a fair price to offer...dont need it but you know, its always nice to have the choice to ride.
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    Post by Guest Mon Dec 19, 2011 8:17 pm

    yeah, they go a little more, and they're often worst,due to the salt they used to put on the roads , i got my "a" from colorado, the fram was great,just lucky i guess.
    donivan65
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    Post by donivan65 Mon Dec 19, 2011 9:20 pm

    That 6 cylinder is a 250 cu in engine,,,,thats real common,,,those 1970 vans did come with 350 engines and TH350 transmissions also,,,,the heavy duty cooling system has a big round surge tank on top of the radiator,,,,,check the line setting ticket if you find it under the hood or behind the right rear tail light,,,,,look at rear end ratio,,,4:11 has power but no speed,,,,,,3:08 or 3:11 is best for mileage, speed and noise,,,,, a 10 bolt rear end cover is the good one,,,,
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    Post by kookykrispy Tue Dec 20, 2011 9:02 am

    It all depends on the condition of the body. If its clean and rust free, $3000 is fair... a bonus is if that paint just needs cleaning.

    But its still a non-running van, so it will be a tough sale. throw a low offer and see what happens.
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    Post by Guest Tue Dec 20, 2011 11:57 am

    yaeh, i'm looking at it, cause its near and a nice model, easy to look at,the guy said its complet,..but i'm also looking at one in Georgia (1968 a-100 auto for the wife, she cant shift a 3 on 3)waiting news on both sides...the guy said very little bondo, all metal sheet,a must see, will bring camera and magnet...thanks for datas donivan..2corrosive
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    Post by RodStRace Tue Dec 20, 2011 12:14 pm

    I'm an admitted cheapskate. There, I said it!
    As it sits, it's not worth 3K to me. If the guy did a major detail job on it and got it running and stopping well, it might go that high. Depends on rust, condition of the paint after cleanup, and interior.
    It looks like the paint may clean up. Figure on a battery, tires, full tune-up, brake job, gas tank flush and filter, radiator clean and repair, and the detail mentioned to get it presentable, plus any other items that need attention (wiring, steering, trans and diff fluids, etc.). Add all that up in local terms and get an idea where you'd be when it's drivable.
    Since he didn't do that stuff before offering it, I'd low-ball it at 1500-2000. Explain that it will need all that stuff before it can be driven. You guys have inspections before tags are issued, right? If you have the cash, offer the 1500-2000 as-is OR 3K after it's fully inspected and cleaned, provided it meets your expectations after you look it over. If it were a V8 auto, I'd go higher.
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    Post by donivan65 Tue Dec 20, 2011 1:05 pm

    I am with that plan,,,,in my world, I plan on going through everything to find out what I got then fix it,,,,,everything I ever bought was junk,,,,,,I spend the least money possible,,,,,, my money goes into fixing it right,,,making it safer and more dependable and the way I want it,,,,,now a person with lots of money, no time, no skills or equipment would do it differently,,,,,so you got to look in the mirror.....then go get that Early,,,,,,,because you are REALLY missing out if you don't own one,,,,,
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    Post by Guest Tue Dec 20, 2011 6:39 pm

    thats what i always do, cut the price in half and the let the seller justify the raise of the price,but this time i'll offer him a third, since i'm in no hurry to buy and it wont start, the fuel tank is off the truck!..and yes rod, there's so much stuff needed before it touch the asphalt.(5K$ to fix+buying price, that where i'm with the "a").......great pep talk sarg!..will go this week, i'll keep you posted with picts!
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    Post by HandiVanMan Wed Dec 28, 2011 1:17 pm

    If it is pretty much rust free, strait and all there I would buy it. I haven't seen much 1970 Chevy panel vans around. I would like to also say that I'd the 68 a100 is in blairsville ga and is listed for $2200 you should check out a thread on here and see if it is the same one. If happens to be the same one you should not waste your time looking at it.
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    Post by Guest Wed Dec 28, 2011 3:14 pm

    yah, i'm pretty much over the one in Blaisville, i convinced my wife, if its to rusty.....
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    Post by Guest Thu Jan 26, 2012 2:02 pm

    up to date.....the seller wanted a "decent" price...i've decided to go for a power boat with 40 hp.....thanks for all..corrosive
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    Post by langan Mon Feb 13, 2012 1:53 pm

    Did you buy the van if not PM me I could sure use a van

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