SUSPENSION BUSHINGS for my Econo Pickup

I knew I had to get it done. The leaf springs were metal-to-metal with the shackles and
body spring mounts. Obviously the rubber bushings, or what was left of them, were the original
half-century old ones. Removing and Replacing the spring bushings were part of my "laundry
list" of tasks to make my Econo a tolerable daily driver...

There were TWO challenges to doing this task. Of course, there was doing the actual work, but
just FINDING THE CORRECT RUBBER BUSHINGS became confusing at the least.

I did NOT want to buy an entire shackle kit ($$$) since the original metal was fine, it was the rubber
that was shot.

I kind of found most of the bushings but was not confident with all the sources, so I remembered "my guy." I've done restorations on Ford Falcons and I had a source who I thought
could consolidate the bushings into a single package. (*edit: I since found there is a member here
who sells Urethane Bushings, so this thread is just the rubber alternative, maybe next I will use his.)

After a few emails and calls, Tom, at McVeigh Truck Springs in Michigan I got my order:

Tom's prices have been reasonable and shipping was minimal. I think I paid under 38 bucks for all
the front including the chassis bushings, and about the same for the rears. Shipping was like 7 bucks.


I did the front springs "in the car" since I wanted to do minimal effort, to just get 'er done. I may get
the springs blasted later and spray them with Slip Plate... ...daily driver for now, restomod later, ha.


The pure-rubber bushings were easy to pluck out, the Metal Clad bushings required some "portable
press work." Ball Joint tools are a common way to do it, got to get creative with sockets as press tools.


I used my Electric Impact Wrench on the Press, it was important to use penetrating oil to free up the
bushing.


Poser shot. Literally metal-on-metal, could hardly wait to see the difference with the new rubber.


Made sure to use emory cloth to scrub out the leaf spring eye. The metal-clad bushings are an
interference fit, use common sense, ha.


Same portable ball joint press tools were used to install the new sleeved-bushings. I coated the
sleeves with a thin film of moly grease to reduce corrosion and ease installation.


A little bit of reality. The second sleeved-bushing was a bitch. Realizing that the Spring Eye is
kind of "spring loaded" tightly around the bushing, I kept at it with the press tools, lube, and
a BFH on the Eye itself. Shocking the Spring Eye seemed to help, and once again, I was the victor, ha.


The shackle end was cake by comparison. Remembering to scrub out and lube the
Spring Eye and the Chassis Mount, the bushings fit with ease.


All up, the front bushing removal and replacement was good practice for the rears...

George

The REAR Springs were a little more work. I had to remove a couple leaves
that didn't belong in the stack and the U-Bolts were weird junk.


Again, getting creative with the Balljoint Press. IMO, it is better to take the
rear springs out and chuck them in a vice to get the job done. The sleeved
bushings are larger in diameter and (at least in my case,) more resistant to
removal...


The Metal-Sleeved Bushings for the Rear Springs are a bit larger. They are
more work to get out. A local machine shop can press them for you.
I'm a cheap bastard, so I struggled with my press and finally found a combo
of "press tools" (ie. Sockets/Metal Tubing) that worked...


The new bushings had internal sleeves that stuck out a little bit, but trial fit
showed that they fit perfectly. Tom at McVeigh said there may be another
size (diameter) of Sleeved Bushing, but I told him my Model and Year, and
his books said 2 inch diameter, which is what I measured also...


I knew I was on my way home when I got the bushing out this far. Notice the
little slit formed by the end of the leaf spring- I found that my PB Blaster could
get in there pretty nice and this really helped. Proper sized press tools made
the biggest progress. Important to spend time fitting the right push tools.


Poser shot. Old vs. New


I did notice the new bushing's inner sleeve had serrated teeth on it. They
installed fine, no interference or slack...


Same steps were used to get the new bushings in...


Since I had the stack apart, I decided to go big and add some insulators.
This polymer stuff is locally available, 2-1/4" wide. 20 feet did both rears
(5 leaf stack) with a couple extra feet to throw away. Cost me about 12
bucks-


New Center Bolts from McVeigh were needed for the shorter/thinner stack.
Good idea to replace with proper Grade 8 Tall Head center bolt- not spendy
at all...


Spring stacks reassembled, ready for install with new U-Bolts!


More leaf spring porn


The big end bolted up. No weird squeezes or tight fits encountered...


The shackle end was likewise easy. Heads up on the side with the Fuel Filler
Pipe. It will take a little bit of "origami hands" to fit the nut and wrench in
there, ha.


Check this out: My particular '61 Econoline Pickup had wedge blocks to aim
the pinion angle. Well, the P.O. had them in BACKWARDS!!!! He had the
pinion snout aiming up at the transmission!!! BAH HA HA!!! Finally, someone
dumber than me The U-Joints were out of phase because of this, and
they sure did vibrate above 30 mph- I expect that to go away now.


Got new u-bolts from McVeigh. 3/8" x 5" over a 2-1/4" diamter axle tube
(got the tiny-toy 7.25" rear end with axle tubes that neck down at the
u-bolts.) Might trim the excess off. Could have ordered them at 4" I
think entire set was about 4 bucks...


All done and looking bada$$ in my garage/man cave.

The Ride
"Nice!" "Wow" "Ahhh..."
That's what will be said when feeling out the new suspension bushings.
Smoothness is VERY noticible over deep dips. I can hear my other rattles
much more clearly now! ha! Amazing what such little parts will do to the
ride and handling.

You will get more thumbs up too! Chicks will jump into your rig when you
are at a stop light... ...you've been warned.

George

great work George thanks.

thanks for the detailed pics of your work

Hey George,
Great article and excellent step by step! Is there a part or package # I can give Tom so as to save time? I looked into the urethane bushings and although they might last longer, they will get noisy in cold or other inclimate weather. I prefer the rubber also.
I believe the serrates are there to keep the inner sleeves from turning under stress, which would wear out the rubber faster. We have our pickup in the shop now and have to change all the bushings and shocks, as everything has dried out from sitting over the years. I too do not want to buy the complete shackles as they are o.k.. I also had to get a new draglink as the old one made the truck wander like a drunken big rig. Thanx again for the great article and any info you can pass along. Art

Hey George,
Great article and excellent step by step! Is there a part or package # I can give Tom so as to save time? I looked into the urethane bushings and although they might last longer, they will get noisy in cold or other inclimate weather. I prefer the rubber also.
I believe the serrates are there to keep the inner sleeves from turning under stress, which would wear out the rubber faster. We have our pickup in the shop now and have to change all the bushings and shocks, as everything has dried out from sitting over the years. I too do not want to buy the complete shackles as they are o.k.. I also had to get a new draglink as the old one made the truck wander like a drunken big rig. Thanx again for the great article and any info you can pass along. Art

Hi Art,

Tom made it clear that the year of the vehicle was most important.
He has excellent catalogs and is quite knowledgeable.

Here are the part numbers for my 1961 (Bushings will vary with year):

The front spring bushing kit (2x) RB-52 and(8x) HB-533.
The rear spring bushing kit (2x) RB-130, and (8x) HB-533.

Notes
HB-533 are the all-rubber bushings for the shackle (upper and lower) on both axles.
RB-52 is the metal-clad front-front spring bushing and small diameter (1.1" O.D. appx)
RB-130 is the metal-clad front-rear spring bushing and large diameter (2" O.D.)

Also,
Tom said some Econolines use RB-71 (1.5" O.D.) so it is a good idea to
measure the diameters of the bushings at the non-shackle ends to know
what you've got before ordering.

The cost of the kits were around 30 bucks for the front axle and maybe
33 bucks for the rear axle. I also got new U-Bolts/Nuts/Washers which
were very reasonable in price. Oh yeah, I got new Spring Clips and
Spring Center Bolts, again inexpensive.

Here is his info:

MCVEIGH'S TRUCK SPRINGS
Tom McVeigh
190 South M-33
Mio, MI 48647
(989) 826-3682
http://www.mcveighstrucksprings.com/

The reason for the serrations on the bushing bores makes sense, that's a good observation.

Hope this helps. Please post any progress or issues for other members.
George

BTW, I noticed an instant improvement, then after about a month the
ride got even BETTER! Money well-spent.

Brilliant article. I will be doing this on mine soon, and can't get any stuff over the counter over here in the UK.
Hopefully he will ship to the UK, as it will safe a LOT of hassle....

Sy

Hello Sy,

I hope he does ship, he said he "shipped all over" but I didn't delve much
more than that. I figure the U.K. is part of "all over," (or vice verse, ha ha)
so you should be good (?) Do you pay customs, tariffs, or a duty?

You might notice I used a Balljoint press and it had "China" embossed on it. I got it because it was a cheap tool- TOTAL GARBAGE! I got 1-1/2 of the 4 metal clad bushings pressed out before the tool failed, literally crumbling in my hands...

The second press was much better, "made from quality components worldwide." It felt more sturdy. It cost 3 times more, 4 actually if I include the original one I broke.

I figure for those who don't want to buy the tools, a quick trip down to a Brake and Wheel shop or Muffler shop will find a good 20-ton hydraulic press. Wouldn't take but a few minutes, plus pressing the new ones back in. That was the hardest part other than finding the collective single source for the bushings....
...that's all the past now.

Best,
George

Brilliant, George!!!

Hi George,
Talked to Tom today at McViegh and the new parts are on their way. Hoping to do some installing this weekend with my son. Also installing new shocks and a drag link. I have a local hot rod shop who is good with old style front ends (drop axles) and I will have them do the final alignment. Thanx again for the info and a great "how to" article. Yours in Sport, Art

Art ... Just wondering if you ever Got to your Leaf spring Bushings ?????[/quote]

Yes, Tom McViegh was not only helpful, but the best price. We got half of what we ordered installed, waiting to get the truck back on the road and to my mechanic`s garage to finish the suspension. I`ve still working on the shifter, dash, A/C and interior what not. Should have it going again by the end of March. Art

Thanks for the how-to post, I just got my box of bushings from springs-n-things ($80!). Mine are metal/metal in the front now, going to be changing them asap.

Wonderful article!! Hats off to you & the fotos-Takes extra time & is exactly what we need-Thankx- Id like to know what the polymer stuff is called ,Part # ?/ and where you bought it?? Thanx again for excellent article!!

Hi Twinpilot001,

Glad this thread is useful. Funny you ask about the Spring Liners, because I'm doing a major rebuild/mod on my front axle and part of the build is to put some liners in like I did on the rear. (Maybe I'll post a thread on what I did to my axle to lower it...?)

Anyways, here is the product:



(not affiliated)

I usually use Speedway Motors (not affiliated) and chose the black color, they also have white available:
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Spring-Liners-with-Lip,2079.html

The price had gone up to about 18 bucks at the time of this writing.

The size should be 2-1/4" wide for our Econo's probably similar for other Makes. I was able to do both rear leaf packs with one 20 ft roll.
Not sure yet if one roll is enough to do both front leaf packs.

Remember to install liners "cupped side DOWN" so moisture is not trapped. The stuff looks like Hotwheels track, but in black, ha ha. The sources are all over if you know what to ask for. I recommend looking at local hotrod shops, since shipping would not be a factor. E-Bay is another source. Direct from websites is another option.

Hope this helps,
George

thanks . I never heard of this. but i like it..

Although I think I'm about to ask a "Duh" question, I want to make sure I'm not missing something.
Assuming the Spring liner's primary function is to reduce noise from the leaf springs,  
I'm wondering if I should get some spring liners to put on a new set of leaf springs I will be ordering from McVeigh's.
Oh, just want to say, great write up on this very needed repair for most of these trucks. Thanks for taking the time to document this for the rest of us.

Great informative article. I did this about two years ago and didn't have the tool you show. I used a torch to burn out the rubber from the metal lined bushings and then nocked out the outer sleeve with an air chisel, then pressed in with the vise. Worked pretty good.

Good suggestion Dan!  "Another way to skin a cat." ha ha

Yes Slow Shadow, liners reduce/eliminate squeaks and makes
for smoother operations.  Be sure the liners go "cup-side down"
so they don't trap water.

*My truck is all apart, I've got a lowered axle and new disc brakes
project going at the moment.

(It's an addiction! ha ha)

I want to say that new bushings made the handling and steering
so much better.  I guess the slop affects handling more than you
think.

Best of luck!
George

Awesome damn thread!  You guys blow my mind!

I just have a novice question in regards to insulating the leaf springs.

What does this accomplish?  Does it soften the ride or just insulate the noise?

Hi Lazarusvan, the spring liners do both. They really silence the leaf spring grinds and squeaks. I find the springs feel a bit soft so you should have good shocks. Glad you like the thread! George

Awesome post George! This is just the info I'm needing. I'm on the verge of doing this. Like the idea of the poly things too.

I see that McVeigh is selling these Econo kits on Ebay now. $62 including shipping

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FRONT-AND-REAR-SPRING-BUSHING-KIT-FORD-ECONOLINE-VAN-/351016178966

I wonder if McVeigh could provide a shorter front shackle to drop the front down a bit? Would that work?

Glad you find it useful Seth!
Not sure if McVeigh will do the shackles it's worth a call, he was always real good with answering calls.  My approach to doing a little drop was to either remove a leaf (for a little while,) or what I finally did/am doing, a dropped axle.


BtW, I saw your brake system, I did the exact thing a couple seasons ago,


I managed to keep the parking brake and have a decent anti-sway bar in there.  Pretty close
quarters though!!!

Have fun!
George

Nice, how much drop in the axle? Have you driven it yet? I've always wondered how a dropped axle affects the handling if much at all.

I'm going to try and keep the parking brake but I may have to move it over an inch or so. Is your booster a 7"? Looks like you mounted your booster/master a little forward of where I put mine. I was having geometry issues putting it too far forward, so I mounted it back as far as I could. How's you pedal action? Did you have to enlarge/enlongate the hole in the floor b/c of it? I was trying to avoid that. Do you have a picture from the front?

I thought those threaded holes might be the sway bar mounts, I don't have one, but I'd like to. If I mount mine up against the floor I still think I'd have to put a block in there to mount a sway bar. The master would be just @ or just below the frame. I may have to rework mine now that I see your setup with the sway bar in there.  I was considering redoing the mount anyway b/c I didn't get the pedal arm centered with the hole in the floor left to right, off by 9/16". But if I make my mounting bracket 1 9/16" that puts me further over yet towards the parking brake and I can't go 9/16" in the other direction b/c the booster is already only 1/8" off the frame with the 1" bracket