by FCC Tue Jun 24, 2014 6:08 am
Yeah. Tim lives near me and I went to visit him when I first got the van. I like his blocks, but don't want that much drop due to what work it would take out back to level the ride. C notching, etc.
As I see it so far, there are several progressive and increasingly labor intensive choices. None, that I can find, address the need of shortened and stiffened shocks, until it becomes about air. Which I still can't understand why no one talks about improved dampening and shorter shocks.
Some honest reviews of the final product from guys who have performed the various methods of lowering and lived with them, would be wonderful. But this is the internet, we only talk about the good, and I get that.
From what I have researched, the list below is what I have gathered. None of it comes from direct experience.
$= cost, and 1-10 = difficulty (1 being a brake job level, 10 being custom fab)
1. Drop axle (front). $$/5
-Bolt in solution. +/- 2" drop
-Keeps original suspension geometry and travel.
-Light mods to perfect fitment.
-need additional tie rod bits.
-3/4" narrower per side. May effect wide wheel fitment.
-would benefit from an HD shock.
-works with stock rear set up.
2. Remove leaves. (Front) $/3
- 2-4" drop
-softens spring rates, particularly on non-HD springs.
-could produce hard bottoming of body on bump stops. And shock piston bottoming.
-would need shocks with a shorter piston and a firmer compression/rebound stroke.
3. Flip axles. (Front/rear) $$/7
-3-4" drop
-some welding required.
-clearance issue in rear requiring frame notching.
-shorter firmer shocks mandatory.(IMHO)
-?
-?
4. IFS Mustang II install. (front) $$$$/10
-major surgery, full custom installation
-major improvement/modern drivability
-disc brakes
-rack and pinion
-shocks, coil overs or bags. Your call.
-works with stock rear suspension, or any config you want out back.
-probably worth every penny.
To date, I have only spoken on the phone to one person who has a dropped van (flipped axles) that has given an honest review of the end product. While from a 'stance' perspective, it looks kick ass, he said it's almost undrivable. He regrets having it done because it's taken the fun out if driving it. He paid a shop to do the work and has no real knowledge of the details of the work, but that was his review. I'm guessing they just slammed it and didn't address the characters with supporting rolls.. bump stops, the dampeners (shocks), etc.
It would really be a good thing if we could round up all the info and put together a formula for what makes for a good driving, affordable lowered ride. If we could get folks to ring in on what works and what sucks, we would be able to do just that.
Of course, the end all is IFS, but not everyone wants to cut their car, or not everyone has that kind of loot.
If you have knowledge of any of the above categories, feel free to copy and paste what I have written into a reply, and add to it.