cracked hub...

I installed my new brackets, calipers and rotors from D&D, went for a drive and noticed some wobbling on the right front wheel.
I thought bad bearings and replaced those as well but also noticed that my right hub as a slight crack between two bolts.
When I tightened the wheel back on, the rotor started to scratch on the guide bolts. Had to have a helper holding the rotor centered
while tightening. So now it's not scratching anymore but still wobbling a little.
Could this be caused by the cracked hub?
How can I find out what hubs I have and where to get another one?

Thanks

All the hubs are the same. There has been lots of opinions and discussions on the proper way to remove studs. I can tell you, that when I had my automotive machine shop, the PROPER way to remove the old studs, was with a special carbide tipped cutter. The PROPER way to install studs, is to crimp the base and the drum at the same time, it expands the metal into the drum. IF YOU DONT CUT that expanded material off, when putting in new studs, it usually enlarges the holes and the studs will now spin. Also, another reason I find so many welded in studs for my conversion. I cut them with a hole saw now, without the centering bit, get the right size and it will fit right over your stud, and cut the base all the way down to the hub BEFORE you remove the studs. I suspect you have a bad hub????
old skool

We had a set of different sized cutters and crimping tools for the press, just for replacing bad drums. In the Bendix parts books, it referred to as "STAKING". My point is, that when we picked a stud to put in, we actually looked for one that had a base that protruded slightly higher than the surface of the drum. With the "skaking" or crimping tool, we squashed this higher surface down and into the drum, to join them the same as rivet head expanding. Unfortunetly, this expands the base of the stud into the drum, as well as making it swell in shank size, quite often all the way down to the hub surface. I cant think of anyway to take them apart, without cutting the base of the stud all the way through the drum and down to the hub surface. On my conversions, I machine the OD of the hub slightly, and find a lot of hubs that have been ruined, simply because of someone not knowing the proper procedure. It is hard to find an automotive machine shop anymore, let alone an auto parts that know what to look for or how to interchange parts in the back of the book. I have tons of pictures, but find the browse setup, much harder to find my pics in than simply using an attatchment???j
OLDSKOOL

Ford wasnt the only one,,, lots others to include that other make????? LOL...
Usually, all of them have some way of supporting the drum or rotor, said to keep from cutting the studs??? although I doubt that. Like on our rear drums, as sometimes it gets stuck and you cant get them loose, the idea is to support the drum by the center of the axle. BTW,, old trick for some that dont already know it,,, use a small torch, and heat the center of the drum, it will pop and fall right off the axle. No foul...
OLDSKOOL,,,

That's a neat trick, gotta try it next time.
I didn't remove the studs. It was converted before and I just used better brackets and new rotors/calipers.
Doesn't feel good driving around with a cracked hub.
Any ideas where to find one?

Thanks

I had the same problem with the "expanded" stud on my '68 dodge and had the grind the head of the stud and drive them thru with a punch so I could replace the broken ones. Left hand of course, no wonder they were broke