Replacement gas pedals?

Gas pedals, what are you guys doing for this? My original is not usable. I've done some looking but not having any luck. It's a 1969 Chevy. Thanks

I bought something like this:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/275691201510?epid=704585580&hash=item403079e3e6:g:YFIAAOSwO4pj7a2J&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA0CM70ijNz1R%2ByphjnFTgPYEU6CdwS%2FloHzo%2B6RQn5etJJuBLhpM2oW0Bil5wPIxKqjSxmnJk0xs5LD5q%2FxK9dwv5WD7MDhjQbnmAmT4NMWRpqhJfRIZi2ZX9ll3DvxEN6NZGZP3wbScPNfcscU%2FFo4Ve5ttZTeTYgw0qcrrNHtVSwIS%2BzyBPjFTHRFWkWh2VKKe8%2FU4XNHn2xsRab2BC1xBLyPMPzqnzwW4AjYk5nyGZ%2BS6SwZ2da7IIOqfL9WVyizbaQRV65sKRlXt2ww8c6FM%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR5bgq4iaYw

And I would have a hard time recommending it. It attaches to the floor with 4 tiny Allen head screws which seem to hold it OK, but you need two people to install it. One has to hold the Allen wrench inside the vehicle while the other tightens the nut from below. This doesn't seem so bad but the pedal itself is in the way of the bolt heads. I think I had to cut down an Allen key to make it fit under the pedal. Probably could have disassembled the whole thing and put it back together once the base was mounted, but it was a lesser of two evils kind of decision.

Long story short, look at how it mounts before you get an aftermarket pedal!

I don't really have a choice mine is not usable. Completely rusted up and after disassembly the sleeve is heavily damaged. Did you use a cable with that? If so how long was it?

Yes this style uses a cable. A lot of the aftermarket ones do. My van is a bit of a Frankenstein, the body is sitting on the chassis of a 4x4 truck and the engine is a little farther forward than it would have been stock. If memory serves I think I bought an 8' cable. It has to go from the pedal to the back of the engine and then forward again a small distance to the carburetor. At least that's how mine is. The cables don't like tight bends and mine didn't have any grease or lube on it when I got it. Adding that helped a lot.

Also you can get a longer one and cut it down to length. Cutting the housing first with the inner cable removed of course, then shortening the cable as needed. ( I used a sharp chisel and a block of wood to cut the inner cable and it didn't fray!)

Just measuring 8' would probably be good just over 6 feet is tight. The extra would make it easier

A little extra is a whole lot better than not enough! Good luck with the swap. I'll see if I can grab some pictures of my pedal and cable next time I'm outside messing with the van.

On a side not what did you do for steering with the frame swap. I've had thoughts doing that but can't work out the steering in my brain.

Steering...  where to begin hahaha!  What I ended up doing was cutting off the front portion of the van's frame rail in front of where the factory box went, and getting a bolt-in plate fabricated that holds a steering box from a (1977 dodge W250) ???  (need to look that up) which has "reverse rotation".  I got it from Rock auto. An aftermarket column connects right to the input of the box, and a really long drag link connects the pitman arm to the steering knuckle of the pickup truck front axle.Pitman Arm is on the drivers side of the box and rotates correctly according to steering input.  Pickup chassis is a '87 K-10. The truck's factory power steering pump feeds the dodge box.  It works "OK". Right now I am close to replacing the pump because it doesn't seem to have much power assist beyond about 1/4 turn unless your moving.  Turning 37" tires in the dirt isn't easy either though so I might just be chasing ghosts.  there's also a lot of flex in the whole setup.  I made a gusset that connects the steering box mount plate to the truck frame but if I had it to do all over again I might have gone to some kind of hydraulic ram setup or at least enlisted the help of someone who works on this kind of stuff for a living like off road trucks and rock buggies.

If you take this on, let me know what you decide to do.  There's also the method of using the van's factory leaf spring locations with lifted springs, then hanging a front differential under it and figuring out how to fab in the transfer case mounts and front driveshaft clearance. This way might be simpler however if you want big tires like 35"+ I think doing the frame on frame method might be better.  If I had it to do over I would have looked for a 108 wheelbase van also to help with rear driveline angle.

The part Clarks Corvairs sells I believe is a bolt in, see:
https://ssl.corvair.com/user-cgi/search.cgi?part=C542A.

It has the "D" shaped hole that the G-10's employ.

Mine is totally trashed. I was able to get it all apart but the sleeve is trash and the threaded part broke off the arm.

Private massage you email address me on repair for the pedal bracket.

It really depends on what amount of modifications you are willing to undertake to have a system that isn't crude like a 60s lawnmower!
The factory stuff can usually be cleaned, restored and re-bushed to do an acceptable job but will always require cleaning and maintenance to remain smooth yet tight...

When I decided to set my engine back 18 inches, I knew that I would be giving up hard linkages for Teleflex/Morse marine control cables and making my own controls for each end of each cable..... I made a foot pedal assembly that pulls, rather than pushes the throttle cable and the cable loop up over the back of the engine to pull the TBI arm....These cables are designed to be either pushed or pulled, so there is plenty of flexibility in the design of your pedal hardware......
There are no off-the-shelf parts specifically made to fit these early vans directly, so the best-fitting parts IMO are home made....
As for tightening screws/nuts through the floor, there is an access panel that the steering column and  brake/clutch pedals go through that you can lift for access....

dodge
https://www.detroitmuscletechnologies.com/mopar-dodge-a100-a108-64-70-accelerator-gas-pedal/?msclkid=d5899c000ca2108e439ff9a72414b90b

I changed my setup to a Lokar with a 96" cable......apparently they are no longer available over 72"

Bummer really, as I could have used the 112" cable to have a really generous radius to the TBI.

I don't have a picture but I went with a 96" cable, I'm not sure how I could have used a shorter cable. I also used a pull pedal, If I had a push pedal the cable could have been shorter. My pedal is very similar to the one MDVANMAN posted. I stole it out of my T bucket.

raidmagic wrote:I don't have a picture but I went with a 96" cable, I'm not sure how I could have used a shorter cable. I also used a pull pedal, If I had a push pedal the cable could have been shorter. My pedal is very similar to the one MDVANMAN posted. I stole it out of my T bucket.

I too would rather use a shorter cable and have a push set-up, but it gets complicated, and frankly not worth the extra effort now.

Just a shame that the 96" and 108" cables are no longer being produced.

kiwimopar wrote:

raidmagic wrote:I don't have a picture but I went with a 96" cable, I'm not sure how I could have used a shorter cable. I also used a pull pedal, If I had a push pedal the cable could have been shorter. My pedal is very similar to the one MDVANMAN posted. I stole it out of my T bucket.

I too would rather use a shorter cable and have a push set-up, but it gets complicated, and frankly not worth the extra effort now.  

Just a shame that the 96" and 108" cables are no longer being produced.  

You can still buy the 96" If they aren't making them anymore I might buy another just to have it on the shelf. I played around with a push set up but got bored and moved onto more productive things lol

[quote="raidmagic"][quote="kiwimopar"]

raidmagic wrote:...............

You can still buy the 96" ............

Do you have a source or supplier in mind - Summit showed them as no longer available.