My '62 Econoline Progress

So after all these years I have my own van! I didn't really do too much research before I bought this one and honestly I didn't really spend to much time looking it over before I bought it. Not like I knew what I was looking at anyway, but I took the sellers word on mostly everything. I don't even know if he knew what he was looking at! In the pictures it looks beyond nice but once I really got my eyes and hands on it, in my opinion its just a quick paint job over bad prep work. It runs good enough, shifts and stops but for sure I want it better.


My first project was to fix the back door handle that I pulled right off. Seemed like someone already tried to fix it with some kind of epoxy. I used what ever I had in the garage so the end fix was to drill and tap a hole to use a screw and washer to keep it from pulling out. There was already a few holes in the door so I enlarged one to gain access to the screw head.



So that fixed that but then the handle itself came off the square shaft running into the latching mechanism. So I did the same thing again, drill and tap a hole through both the handle and the square shaft.

So now the door latches correct and the handle stays with the van. Still have to figure out why I cant lock the door and pull the key out but that's for later. Next I need to figure out whats going on with the function of the side door. Looks like a sloppy attempt at welding something.

I'm not too sure how the latch works but if you give the blob of "welding" a little help with your finger, the plungers at the top and bottom of the door will start to expose themselves, then you have to very gently close the door and turn the handle to secure it in place. That strategy works once in every three attempts. This is a MUST fix as well. Just got a manual in the mail and hope to see a diagram so I don't go into it completely blind.
For the most part I think the van is in pretty good shape. After pulling up the carpet you can see the metal patches. Not too worried what's underneath yet. Going to have to figure out what the installer of the new wiring harness did, since when I turn the headlight switch to dim the gauge lights, I loose my tail lights??? I'll probably put in another harness myself so I know what's going on, cant stand electrical gremlins.

The engine runs a little rough. Looks like the choke is removed so I thought that might be a trouble shooting start point. The VIN says its a 170ci but i thought I read somewhere a blue valve cover says other wise. I'll crawl under there again and look at the number of freeze plugs to confirm.

I am for sure interested in adding a fuel injection system to this engine at some point this summer. I've been doing some research and saw another member in my area did to his van and had positive feedback. Hopefully I can get in touch with him for advice. The van came with a few boxes of spare parts. There is another steering box which I plan to swap out with the sloppy one in there now. Is there any way to tell the condition before you install them? I plan to chip away and make this van a reliable daily driver. I have an '86 VW Vanagon that I have been working on for the last 3 years that away getting a paint job so I hope to fill my free time working on my new Econoline.

So I have been trying to fix that side door latching issue today. I located some side doors with windows that I plan to install at some point and the latch mech in there seems to operate/lock well. For the time being I will try to install that latch unit into the door thats currently on my van. I'm documenting that on a different post in the "between the seats" section.
Another thing I stumbled upon is that my VIN number shows I have a 170ci motor. When I looked up in there I saw at least 4 freeze plugs, I think. Here are the pictures.


Maybe there is a 5th behind the starter?

I'll have to research some more and go back under when its not raining to see what I can find.
I'm also guessing something is missing from my carb, maybe the choke?

You most likely have a 200 ci engine. The casting number on your block starts with C8 or 1968, so that engine is at it's oldest, from at least '68. I don't believe 170s were put in cars that late.

170s have only three casting plugs and you accounted for at least four, so I would say your van is sporting a 200. Congrats, it's a much better engine than a 170 for a number of reasons- 7 main bearings, larger hole for the distributor, cylinder head, etc. It may also have the dual bolt pattern on the back of the block for large and small bell housings.

Wow Otto you just saved me a bunch of time. Should I be concerned about the "thinner" frames and motor mounts on my '62. I've read a few times that they are more prone to cracking with the larger engines. I think I read about a group member named Vic or OldSkool who fabricated engine cradles to help with support for the earlier vans.
Is there a preferred carburetor for these engines? I'm considering replacing mine while I get my van out on the road. Thanks again for lending your knowledge.

My '64 van has the same motor mount hangers as your van, and I've also upgraded to a 200 engine. The 170 and 200 are the same size and weight and the 200 probably doesn't make a whole bunch more power so I'm going to take a wait- and- see approach to the undercarriage structure; I think it will be fine. If you are going to add a V8 or lots of power, a cross member would be a good idea.

Yes, there are some brilliant members here that can make you whatever you want.

As for a carburetor, my van has a Holley replacement 1bbl- I think it's a model 1940. Without doing a lot of machine work and fabrication, it's difficult to easily try different carbs beyond another 1 bbl. As you know, the intake manifold is cast into the head. Have you looked into the "Ford Falcon six cylinder Performance Handbook"? It may be a resource for you.

Hi Otto,
I do think I will replace my carb with what ever is a direct fit just to start off fresh and buy time until I'm ready to pursue fuel injection. I met a guy with the Sniper and says its great. Could you confirm which carb you have. I'd like to get a hold of one right away. I was supposed to start using this van for moving my tools. I've had it over a week now and still cant even get the doors to lock!!! HA HA...

The carburetor on my van is a Holley. I gave the numbers on it to the auto parts store and they got me a rebuild kit for a model 1940- everything fit so that's what I guess it is. I've read the Holley was a replacement carb for the Autolite 1100 1bbl that would have been installed at the factory.

So I started a search for 1bbl carbs. I had been talking to a shop in California called "The Carburetor Center." They had a few 1bbl carbs. The guy had nothing bad to say about any of them. I sent a picture of my carb. He spotted it as a Carter.
https://www.carburetorcenter.com/product-page/1971-1976-ford-truck-carter-yf-hand-choke-carburetor-remanufactured
He said it was a good one and suggested to just stick with it. So I may just do that since I don't know much about them and to avoid any extra work making a different one fit. I've got enough troubleshooting to do with this van. Just went out for a drive and now my wipers don't work and my parking lights shut off when I pull my headlights on??? If I go back to just parking lights they do work but the lights flicker when you wiggle the switch.
 I did just put in a pair of LED headlights from my Vanagon but I swear everything was working the other night. Some times LED's do funny things to the other lights. There is an after market gauge set installed and ever since I put in the LED's, the high beam indicator light shuts off real slowly when you work the switch. I'd like to to take them out and see if it effects anything but I tossed those sealed beams. I need a day to go over all the wiring anyway.

It's normal for the parking lights to go out when the headlights are pulled on. That's just how old Fords are.

Thanks for that Otto, but I swear I saw them all on together when I did a turn signal test. Maybe I didn't!?

I'll 2nd the "The Ford 6 cyl Performance Hndbk" purchase (2X ^^^).
https://www.vintageinlines.com/product-page/the-ford-falcon-six-cylinder-performance-handbook
and caution - 'frz plugs' is not the end all. Ck H2O pump bolts too.

'68 is great. One of the 1st w/o the 'feed back carb/dizzy' (spark control valve & load-a-ma-tic diz)
https://fordsix.com/ci/Loadomatic.html
(SCV/LOM last 1/2 of the page)
We like incremental up-grades as sometimes an incremental approach fits the bill (seata da pants sez enuff smiles/mi). Turn up the advance 4* beyond stock ford specs. All ways do an ign tune 1st, then go onto a carb tune. Get it running the best it can now/1st~

A second up grade (here due to post '67 =) the DSII ignition. The blue strain relief brain & lrg or sm cap dizzy. Many racers use this set up. Others swap out the box for a GM 4 pin (something u may B familiar w/) creating a hybrid sys.

Take off the driver's hat'n put on the scientist's. ID every part of any new-to-me 50+ y/o vehicle. Esp if an unfamiliar Y/M/M (U gota good start on that). Esp w/motor only if lookin ta 'hop up'. If it is a 3.3/200 its a lill rev monster (compared to the other 5 ThriftPower motors). Who knows whats there w/1/2 to doz POs? If more wealthy than me (not hard) just rip out that motor and geta 5 oh. If goin by logics - ID what U want from this rig (long term - its APPLICATION) and follow the "drive & upgrade approach" shown in 'the Handbook'. Its well researched and planned. Allows a savings chance while investing.

A 1940 is justa replacement carb. What's the casting#s on top of the log intake? Lets C if that's '68+ too~

Lots of good advice, thank you. I will purchase the handbook, I'm eager  to learn about this engine and learn the lingo too. What would I be looking for with the water pump bolts? I also did reach in behind the starter and felt a 5th freeze plug. I thought I also read somewhere about two bellhousing bolt patterns. Is that accurate or did I just make that up? Here is a shot.



I will plan a tune up. Are there any opinions on which parts are better than others?
I've also started cleaning all the crud from my steering linkage for a steering gear replacement. I think its original to the van. A spare was included, which the PO said was fresh.

Hey Chrisful, were these the #'s you were talking about. I had a hard time getting a good shot so I took 2 angle's.

the head is '66 (more on ford: C prefix = '60s, 2nd place = yr) the DE is engine related prt I believe. 6090 for sure as U see that @ the block too, no? The B = "We had a 2nd variations on that same model (ie the one that's been in continuous production since '68"). Nxt will B all that BS but a "C" for the nxt /'68 variation. D in the initial prefix = '70s decade, E - some (enuff) upgrades that guys will look 2 that fora swap on. This is all in the Handbook...
Tune up R ford of course (Motorcraft), Elchin is as good as (NAPA). Some will use the NGK for sparkilators rather than Motorcraft. W/'64 + block U could go DSII on ign components. Rather than ME typin alot, missin somepin - take the suggested 'The Ford...6 Cyl Performance Handbook" route. Is great incremental save $ but upgrade as U drive it guide to hop up 4 of the 6 Falcon Motors (the 'small block' ones) ID their differences, get up to speed on just what they R, etc.
That's 2 of us recommended it & the link is above.
Name's Chad, that one (chrlsful) is what the site used for whatever slot U look @ (just add the @aol.com to email me) See the signature? A lill esoteric, but I can give U more...
EDIT:
Sorry, this site duz not have signatures. Sorry, they put a piece of ur email up? Not sure but there's my name...

I've been making progress with my knowledge about my van, thanks to some of the members here. The only physical progress has been installing a set of mirrors. I wanted to put them more toward the front of the door where I had originally seen them installed from pictures of other vans, but the wing windows would hit them no matter where I placed them so I went with what the diagram that came with them showed. The old mirrors didn't show you much. I tried to hide the holes left behind from them but that was still too close for me. I've got them as close to the wing window as I was comfortable with and just enough visibility to work for me. I will still add a stick on round mirror to see the ground. I like the look with them more forward but this is what I have for now, hopefully it grows on me. Eventually when I get to body work/paint stage I'll swap out these doors with an almost perfect set I have, I'm not too worried about the holes left behind.

interesting design.
Non-oem I say putt'em where U want, what wrks, is safe, etc.
I've all way thought abt the 'circle @ the end of a stalk' the EB had 1st few yrs.
May go w/that at some point. The 'oblong'? even beddah (we had 'em too).
https://www.kaiserwillys.com/side-arm-mirror-kit-with-arm-5-fits-41-64-mb-gpw-cj-2a-3a-3b-m38-m38a1?gclid=CjwKCAjwg4-EBhBwEiwAzYAlspxImxZ2VkdlgVp_dc04t-1CIbG8CETKV980EwLX03slzvHf5ekauhoCXJEQAvD_BwE

I picked those up from Green Sales. Believe they are for '68 ? I think somewhere I read that when I was searching. I'd like to find a set with round bases or even round lenses if they were big enough. Wanted to try to keep everything round like the headlights and the smoothies.

U can get the unit (mirror) seperate from the stalk/mount (arm).
The vedub bus style is kinda nice (mounts as the dorhinge pin) & has that nice round style.
Give that a search. Mine on the willys met my interest (oem bronk but not hundreds of $s).

Think I'll look into that round style you talk of. I'd like to see about paint or powder coat at some point too. I wonder if you can remove/replace glass easily?

"easily" again we're onto a judgment. I C a flair of rubber on most, around the glass edge. It insulates from contact (water intrusion & fracture).  Not sure how U'd stuff it, the 'head' (mirror assembly) is pretty independant, cheep, sourcable....U got a busted one U wanna replace?
Hey, your in the Philly area (4718 Pennypacker)...I gota paint supplier in that area I need some help with.  Not sure its doable. Got POR-15 top coat ina 15oz spray less than $12.

I was able to find some time to remove/install a steering gear assembly in my van this weekend with the help of my repair manual. The donor steering gear is so much better than the one that was in there. I ended up having to put the new one in 2x's because I couldn't fit the pitman arm on the sector shaft so I removed it all and test fit the arm on the shaft. I'm glad I did because it took a bit of effort to install the arm and I would have never been able to do it with the unit in place.






I had a bit of up and down play in the steering wheel after I was done then I realized I didn't put the little sleeve in there.

After I installed it I still needed to loosen the steering column/shift tube clamp and pull up on the column a little to snug up the wheel. I still plan to get back in there someday, remove it all again and give it a deep clean and coat as much of the metal that I can. Right now I just need to keep it all together a functioning. My "better half" and I have been on very bad terms ever since I bought this van so I cant let her see a pile of parts sitting around.